It's finally time I addressed this issue. My manifolds are a pile of rust and have started leaking. Not sure if it's from the block or from the pipe flange. The flanges rotted off the pipes years ago and the only thing holding them on the manifold is basically carbon build up. This is not a job I can really do myself. I don't have the space so it's going to a shop for this. I've looked in to a few options and am curious what others have done. I really wanted to run the ceramic coated flowtech headers but I keep hearing that the flanges are not flat and at least one mounting hole does not line up correctly. I have thought about getting them and matching up the gasket bolt holes and correcting any alignment issues before giving them to the shop but I'm not equipped to handle the flanges being warped at all. I don't have a way to flatten something that size. There are a few aftermarket options for manifolds, dorman and ATP are two choices but I'm not sure about quality control on those. They are cheaper but I've never used an aftermarket manifold so I'm not sure. OEM is obviously the highest priced but I'm assuming they are going to be the best fit. Anyone have any guidance for me on this?

 

Stay away from dorman for exhaust...... their quality leaves much to be desired.

Some shorties would be a good fit, and you don't have to worry about fitment issues, the installing shop will deal with those. Just use GOOD quality gaskets. Remflex dead-soft copper, or aluminum are great. They don't blow out like the paper gaskets do.

 

Yeah, I figured dorman was not going to be a good choice. The issue I have with the shop taking care of fitment issues is honestly the $100 per hour labor charge. They're already quoting me $1000 labor just to replace the manifolds. That doesn't include the front pipe or O2 sensors. So direct fit is going to be important but I also don't want painted headers. It concerns me to have that much heat right there so if I do go with headers I want them ceramic coated.

As far as gaskets, the factory ones look to be sheet metal. Is that true?

 

If there were gaskets there at all from the factory.

Yeah, if you don't have the stuff (space, tools, time....) to do it yourself, labor is gonna hurt. 10 hours seems a bit excessive to me though... Maybe see if some other shop might give you a better deal. (I could see 4-500.....)

 

Welcome to new england. Rust sucks. They budget for issues when doing work like that. Broken studs, possible drilling and so on.

 

I live in michigan..... so, same deal here. We used to do complete exhaust, headers, all the way out the rear, for under 1000 dollars, and that includes parts AND labor.....

 

I wish I lived out there.

I had thought about how I could do it myself without a torch or lift. With the way the bottom of the manifold sits next to the cross member it's just not possible. I had thought about going all out and pulling the heads so I could do it on a bench but by the time you're done with that and all the other things I would do with the engine torn down that far like timing chains, It's going to be cheaper to just pay to have someone else do the manifolds. I will look around to see what other shops will charge but I don't think it's going to get much better. I figure this whole job, manifolds, front pipe and sensors is going to run me in the ball park of about $2000.

 

You REALLY need a torch for that job.....

 

I've got a buddy of mine that's going to do this for me. So far I'm already in to this job for $600 and I still have $1100 to go for the Y pipe and cat back plus labor. UGH

 

Yeah, nothing is cheap any more......

The exhaust on my truck is rusting out, and starting to fall apart.... So, I am going over to my buddies shop on Monday, to have a look, and see what I am going to need. I'll get the stuff, roll it into the shop, and do the work myself..... (and fix the previous owners screw-ups while I am at it..... who puts two inch exhaust on an 8 liter engine?????) So, should be under 200 bucks for me.