I haven't put it on the code reader yet but I'm fairly confident that it's going to tell me that I have a defective Governor Pressure Solenoid. There is only one and it is located in the transmission pan in an assembly that requires minimal disassembly. I do not believe that it is the ECM since the ECM was replaced last time the place of repair gave me a run around.

Every place I call gives me the run-around - bring it in, blah blah blah. "It could be the wiring. It could be other solenoids. There's a lot of things that could cause the problem. I have a policy that I won't give a quote until I've checked the vehicle." This irritates me to no end. I fully intend on paying to have the work done.

I'm not shopping around for someone to diagnose the problem over the phone. Sure, it's possible that there's something else but Occam's Razor suggests to us that the simplest answer is usually correct. I know what they want. They want to put it on their code reader that's probably no better than my Snap-on code reader and then charge me $120 each time they use it. Been there, done that, I don't need another t-shirt.

I won't mention any company names that start off with beep beep but instantly the convo switched to "It will only run you about $3,800 to replace the transmission..." The truck's not worth that as scrap. When it runs it runs well. Everything was fine the night before. But why is it I just got some spam that says a rebuilt transmission is $275 to >$1,000? Of course there's an installation process that costs money.

I suggest that debris in the transmission case may have clogged the solenoid. A $52 part plus the transmission seal kit. Some of you may remember that I went through this before when my check engine light would not turn off. Over $2,000 later and a rebuild ECM the check engine light was intermittent. That was until one day I had to have the ignition changed. Instantly the check engine light went off. It was a security violation causing the light to stay on. Nickel and dimed by less-than-honorable or not quite qualified mechanics. The best advice I've ever received his come from this group.

I live in the mountains where we get moderate snowfall. This is my beater up SUV. I'm not going into major debt just a deal with snow.

 

I am wondering what the R&R time is. I found a gasket kit that contains the solenoid and the sensor as well as all the mounting hardware and a new filter and Gasket for $129. Another $40 for ATF+4. The hourly rate is $95. I calculated it shouldn't take more than an hour to do the work but I'll be gracious and say 2 hours. That comes to $359.99. I would even round up to $400. I certainly don't mean to offend any professional mechanics that are in this group that work on commission. I understand book time versus efficiency and compensation. I used to do the lube oil and filters as well as the transmission work when I was a teenager. I'm not completely new to the process. I guess I'm just angry because I feel like I'm getting screwed. The place where I normally take my vehicle said he wouldn't work on it because it was too difficult but yet I've watched the 14-minute video on YouTube and it's as simple as it could possibly be especially with a new kit the pops in as a replacement. With all due respect to the professionals, have I missed something?

 

I was quoted 275.00 for labor to change the governor pressure sensor and solenoid, adjust the bands, and swap out the output speed sensor as well. I would supply the parts.

 

HeyYou,

thank you for the reply pretty much confirming appropriate pricing. Living in the mountains has to drop back that they know it's inconvenient to drive down to the bottom of the mountain and they jack the price up. I'm a hundred percent disabled with a spinal implant and I can't get underneath or lean over vehicles like I used to when I would do my own tune ups and whatnot. My body is so weakened that I can barely change your tire because I can't lift it off the ground.

Some of them have a problem though with a customer providing their own parts even though they get the same parts from the same parts store. They take the retail price and jack it up and it's like I'm paying double for this? I'll see if I can get such a sweetheart deal as you got. Thanks for replying.

 

I was able to get the code reader on it and all I could get was a p0633 and I'm like what? I know that this vehicle has limp mode. It's too cold to stay out there as it begins to snow and I don't have a covered garage. I do but it's at the bottom of the driveway where the snow piles up. Real good thinking on building the house.

And any rate, is it possible that I have a problem with the ignition key, which I have had before, and I am going into limp mode with the ECM thinking someone's trying to steal my prized possession, a beat to hell 2003 Dodge Durango? LOL.

Obviously this vehicle doesn't have an FOB.

P0633 OBD-II: Immobilizer Key not Programmed - ECM/PCM
The ignition key has not been programmed to the vehicle. If an unprogrammed key is used to attempt to start the vehicle, code P0633 will set and the anti-theft light will be illuminated.

 

May be just a bad key. They don't last forever.

 

It is not Illuminating the security indicator. But would this put the truck into limp mode?

 

Well, it's an 'immobilizer' key.... That would imply that it shouldn't start at all..... But, I am not well versed in how the system is supposed to work...

 

It is not Illuminating the security indicator. But would this put the truck into limp mode?

 

I don't think so.