I have a 2002 Durango with a4.7L engine. About three weeksn ago, I started it in my driveway and all the electric came on but it didn't crank at all. I checked the fuses and the 10 amp fuse in slot #10 (ENGINE RELAY) was blown. I replaced it and it blew again right away. I had it towed into my mechanic, who ran diagnostics and got no error codes. He put in a fuse and it started. He found no loose grounds, etc.

The fuse seems to support the PCM and the fuel pump system.

The car drove ok for about a week and then the same thing happened. - same fuse blew This time I left the key in the start position and the odometer blinked a few times then said NO BUS. I had it towed to the dealer and asked them to check it as I suspect the PCM. They are dragging their feet and telling me it costs lots of time (money) to diagnose and correct such an involved problem. I've asked them to just change the warrantied PCM and eliminate that.

The car also suffers from occasional, random "straining" of the engine sometimes on startup, where the powertrain seems to strain for about 1/10 of a mile then its fine, and the interior lights (map/dome) can be seen (at night) to "pulsate" in time with the engine idle if I'm in drive but am stopped at a red light, etc. Their solution the first time I reported that problem was to replace the battery. Obviously that resolved nothing.

Just seems like a bad PCM - am I barking up the wrong tree?

 

Sounds like a bad PCM and the pulsing lights could be your alternator going bad.

 

This may or not help you out but I had a similar problem on my 2000 (4.7L). I had full electric - battery and alternator both good. Fuses were all good. I went to start it and nothing happened. It wouldn't turn over at all. When you turned the key the dash lights (engine, oil, etc...) would come on. I checked the codes and it didn't give any. It sat for a day and I tried it again. This time it started just like nothing happened. I drove it for two weeks and then it just shut off while I was doing about 45 mph. I had it towed to the stealership and they had it for a week and a half. They tried replacing the PCM ($700ish), and then the instrument cluster ($900ish). In the end it turned out to be the crankshaft position sensor. I think it ended up costing me about $200 in parts and labor. Luckily they put my old PCM and cluster back in and didn't charge me for their original misdiagnosis.

 

You may want to check the CTM module as well for those wierd electrical problems you been having.

 

XP That sounds like one helluva dealership to go back and give you your money back like that. Tell me that was in Reno.

 

Sorry, Michigan!

 

Thanx meangreen. I think its the PCM, but you'd think the stealership would try the obvious - crankshaft sensor, etc.

 

Thank xpman. I had it towed back to my regular auto shop. Non-stealer but honest, so I figure they will find the problem be it sensor or PCM or ? I've already started the chase for the money with DC should it be the PCM because I got the stealer to refuse in writing to replace the PCM which is an 8 yr 80K warranty.

 

TRY THIS WONT HURT
This is not a question but a solution. Our company runs a 1999 Dodge Durango 5.9 V8, which was having problems starting. We have been online multiple times to see if others had a solution and we found that owners were spending 1000's $ trying to figure the problem out to no avail, replacing part after part.

The PROBLEM:
Drive the Durango shut it off - go to start and would crank only - leave it for a while - come back start right up. At times the check engine light would come on, stay on, and throw a P0340 code (according to manual and dealers - no Cam shaft sensor on this model - it was throwing a false code). Little by little problem got worse to point Durango would not start at all. Seemed like it might be factory alarm with engine kill.

OTHERS ONLINE TRIED:
Coil; Crank Sensor; IAC; battery replacement; new distributor cap, rotor and plugs; replacement and/or flash of PCM; Throttle Positioning Sensor; Fuses; amoung other items. Brought to Dodge they could not figure it out.

WE FOUND IT TO BE:
Distributor pickup which duals as a cam shaft sensor. This is located under the distributor cap. A $50.00 part solved the problem.