Torsion Bar Lift
#1
03-27-2007, 04:07 PM
Torsion Bar Lift
After a lot of reading,I finally did my own torsion bar lift with the Beltech BEL-6700 shackles
The following is written with excessive detail, but if you run into problems, having more information can be the difference of finishing the job or coming back the next day with a buddy to get the job done.
If anyone is interested, here are some important things to know:
1. It is extremely easy.
2. It can take from 1 hour to 3 hours, depending on how much rust is on your existing shackles.
3. You may need a 6" wheel puller toremove your existing shackles (depending on rust build-up)
4. You may need to replace the 2 metric bolts for theshackle toleaf spring connection (M14 coarse X 121mm long)
5. You will need 8 - 10 9/16" washers to act as spacers for the shackle to spring connection (because you are using a chevy bracket and their springs are wider)
Make sure you jack up the front end to take the weight off of the suspension arms. Crank on the torsion bar adjustment nuts clockwise (tot tighten) to raise the suspension. Using a long wrench or torque wrench with a 4" socket extension helps.
Do NOT raise the front more than 2" or you will over-stress your suspension components and create an extremely harsh ride.
It is a good idea to lower your front end and measure your height adjustment (to the center of your lower shock mount)after every 4 revolutions of each side. Be sure to jounce your bumper to settle the A-arms and push the tires back out before you measure,
On the back end, all you have to do is remove 2 bolts per shackle. First check that nothing is in the way ofsliding the bolts out of the shackles (my trailer hitch frame had to come off first) Lowering your spare tire will also give you more room to work here too.
Once you disconnect the spring, it will want to press against the frame, upwards, not down. You need to place a bottle jack (or use your durango scissor jack, it fits) in between the frame and the spring. Crank the jack to take the pressure off of the shackles so that you can remove them. Once they are removed, you will crank the jack further to fit the new shackles in place.
The upper shackle bolt (that connects it to the frame) shouldbe no problem, it is the lower one that can be hard to remove. You mayneed to cut one side of it off to expose the leaf spring bushing. You can cut this off quickly with a cutting disk or even a hacksaw.
If the bolt is not seized, you can smack it out with a hammer. I can guarantee you that removing this bolt will require some force with a hammer.
If the bolt IS seized, you may have to remove the whole sleeve from the rubber bushing. This is easily done with a 6" gear or wheel puller. Pull the sleeve out and you will see that it is split along it's length. Try prying on it with a screwdriver to release the bolt. If this doesn't work, heat it with a torch, and then pry on it.
Replace the bolt (M14 coarse X 120mm, but you can get away with a 110mm) or soak the existing one in penetrating oil to clean. I highly recommend replacing the bolt, but don't buy one from the dealer, go to a fastener place or hardware store.
Once the bolt is out of the sleeve, press the sleeve back together (if you had to open it up much) by placing it in a vise. Hone the inside of the sleeve out to remove corrosion, solidified lubricants and other crap. If you don't have a 14mm drill bit, you can use a 1/2" and rub the flutes along the side to clean it.
Press the sleeve back into the leaf spring rubber bushing.
To do this, you need to bevel one end of the sleeve (do this on a belt sander or grinding wheel) so that the sleeve will guide back into the bushing. The bushing will have expanded so that the hole is smaller than the sleeve diameter.
Use the wheel puller with the point on the bolt head and press it back into the rubber bushing. Some lubricant on the sleeve will be needed so that you don't force the rubber bushing back out of the leaf spring.
Once this is donebolt the shackles on, don't forget to use the washers for spacers at the leaf spring.
Replace your trailer hitch (if you had to remove it) put your spare tire back, and you are done.
Cheap Lift.
BC Durango
1999 Durango 5.9l 4X4
K&N cold air intake
Throttle body spacer (does nothing but make whoosh noise)
33 X 12.5 Pro Comp Extreme AT
2" T/B lift
Dana Spicer LS rear diff
The following is written with excessive detail, but if you run into problems, having more information can be the difference of finishing the job or coming back the next day with a buddy to get the job done.
If anyone is interested, here are some important things to know:
1. It is extremely easy.
2. It can take from 1 hour to 3 hours, depending on how much rust is on your existing shackles.
3. You may need a 6" wheel puller toremove your existing shackles (depending on rust build-up)
4. You may need to replace the 2 metric bolts for theshackle toleaf spring connection (M14 coarse X 121mm long)
5. You will need 8 - 10 9/16" washers to act as spacers for the shackle to spring connection (because you are using a chevy bracket and their springs are wider)
Make sure you jack up the front end to take the weight off of the suspension arms. Crank on the torsion bar adjustment nuts clockwise (tot tighten) to raise the suspension. Using a long wrench or torque wrench with a 4" socket extension helps.
Do NOT raise the front more than 2" or you will over-stress your suspension components and create an extremely harsh ride.
It is a good idea to lower your front end and measure your height adjustment (to the center of your lower shock mount)after every 4 revolutions of each side. Be sure to jounce your bumper to settle the A-arms and push the tires back out before you measure,
On the back end, all you have to do is remove 2 bolts per shackle. First check that nothing is in the way ofsliding the bolts out of the shackles (my trailer hitch frame had to come off first) Lowering your spare tire will also give you more room to work here too.
Once you disconnect the spring, it will want to press against the frame, upwards, not down. You need to place a bottle jack (or use your durango scissor jack, it fits) in between the frame and the spring. Crank the jack to take the pressure off of the shackles so that you can remove them. Once they are removed, you will crank the jack further to fit the new shackles in place.
The upper shackle bolt (that connects it to the frame) shouldbe no problem, it is the lower one that can be hard to remove. You mayneed to cut one side of it off to expose the leaf spring bushing. You can cut this off quickly with a cutting disk or even a hacksaw.
If the bolt is not seized, you can smack it out with a hammer. I can guarantee you that removing this bolt will require some force with a hammer.
If the bolt IS seized, you may have to remove the whole sleeve from the rubber bushing. This is easily done with a 6" gear or wheel puller. Pull the sleeve out and you will see that it is split along it's length. Try prying on it with a screwdriver to release the bolt. If this doesn't work, heat it with a torch, and then pry on it.
Replace the bolt (M14 coarse X 120mm, but you can get away with a 110mm) or soak the existing one in penetrating oil to clean. I highly recommend replacing the bolt, but don't buy one from the dealer, go to a fastener place or hardware store.
Once the bolt is out of the sleeve, press the sleeve back together (if you had to open it up much) by placing it in a vise. Hone the inside of the sleeve out to remove corrosion, solidified lubricants and other crap. If you don't have a 14mm drill bit, you can use a 1/2" and rub the flutes along the side to clean it.
Press the sleeve back into the leaf spring rubber bushing.
To do this, you need to bevel one end of the sleeve (do this on a belt sander or grinding wheel) so that the sleeve will guide back into the bushing. The bushing will have expanded so that the hole is smaller than the sleeve diameter.
Use the wheel puller with the point on the bolt head and press it back into the rubber bushing. Some lubricant on the sleeve will be needed so that you don't force the rubber bushing back out of the leaf spring.
Once this is donebolt the shackles on, don't forget to use the washers for spacers at the leaf spring.
Replace your trailer hitch (if you had to remove it) put your spare tire back, and you are done.
Cheap Lift.
BC Durango
1999 Durango 5.9l 4X4
K&N cold air intake
Throttle body spacer (does nothing but make whoosh noise)
33 X 12.5 Pro Comp Extreme AT
2" T/B lift
Dana Spicer LS rear diff
#2
03-27-2007, 07:54 PM
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I plan to do the T/S lift and a body lift this year and every lifted D I see only makes me want it more.
#3
03-29-2007, 09:42 PM
RE: Torsion Bar Lift
I got ahead of myself about my tires. I was supposed to get the 33" pro-comp xtreme AT's today, but there were 2 problems:
1. They don't make a 33" xtreme AT for a 15" rim
2. They wouldn't fit anyways.
I was able to get 32X11.5 R15 pro comp mud terrains.
This is the biggest tire that will fit without rubbing (with the 2" torsion lift) - although it does take dirt off of the frame at full lock.
It may be possible to fit 33X10.5 , but you would have to check.
I would have prefered a narrower tire in a 33", but nobody made one in a tire that was remotely useable in the winter - I have to drive on lots of ice here and the pro-comps are siped and drilled for studs.
I think they look good, pics to follow.
BC Durango
1999 Durango 5.9l 4X4
K&N cold air intake
Throttle body spacer (does nothing but make whoosh noise)
32 X 11.5 Pro Comp Mud Terrains
2" T/B lift
Dana Spicer LS rear diff
1. They don't make a 33" xtreme AT for a 15" rim
2. They wouldn't fit anyways.
I was able to get 32X11.5 R15 pro comp mud terrains.
This is the biggest tire that will fit without rubbing (with the 2" torsion lift) - although it does take dirt off of the frame at full lock.
It may be possible to fit 33X10.5 , but you would have to check.
I would have prefered a narrower tire in a 33", but nobody made one in a tire that was remotely useable in the winter - I have to drive on lots of ice here and the pro-comps are siped and drilled for studs.
I think they look good, pics to follow.
BC Durango
1999 Durango 5.9l 4X4
K&N cold air intake
Throttle body spacer (does nothing but make whoosh noise)
32 X 11.5 Pro Comp Mud Terrains
2" T/B lift
Dana Spicer LS rear diff
#5
03-30-2007, 06:54 PM
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#6
03-30-2007, 11:13 PM
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RE: Torsion Bar Lift
I have the T/S lift and PA 3" body lift. I am running 33-12.50/15 Mikey Thompson Baja Claw Radials with the stock 15X8 wheels. Most of my rubbing is in the back on the wheel wells at full articulation. And I know I rub in the front because I have a couple of "CLEAN" spot's on my frame. That's the only way I know it rub's up front. Here are a few pictures. Enjoy and good luck with your mods.
Ted
[IMG]local://upfiles/55445/F966A2F348BC48F6BD253E6B81E85772.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/55445/3BE684BA1C5246D283B234E78D0281D3.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/55445/D1C5482A1B794474810C87185C72A788.jpg[/IMG]
Ted
[IMG]local://upfiles/55445/F966A2F348BC48F6BD253E6B81E85772.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/55445/3BE684BA1C5246D283B234E78D0281D3.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/55445/D1C5482A1B794474810C87185C72A788.jpg[/IMG]
#7
04-02-2007, 09:09 PM
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#8
04-02-2007, 09:22 PM
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#9
04-02-2007, 11:29 PM
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#10
04-02-2007, 11:35 PM
RE: Torsion Bar Lift
ORIGINAL: a4x44ted
Before and after the T/S lift. I think it look'stougher with the lift. Ted
[IMG]local://upfiles/55445/A2C0C4A6DC5C46B5B12838EFC94485EF.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/55445/D63B132E30A94652B878CD38AB1322D9.jpg[/IMG]
Before and after the T/S lift. I think it look'stougher with the lift. Ted
[IMG]local://upfiles/55445/A2C0C4A6DC5C46B5B12838EFC94485EF.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/55445/D63B132E30A94652B878CD38AB1322D9.jpg[/IMG]