Timing Belt Intimidation

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Sep 19, 2008 | 01:46 PM
  #1  
97 - 2.0 DOHC - While I am a reasonably skilled backyard mechanic I have virtually no 4 cylinder engine or timing belt experience. Is there a detailed explanation on how to do the job start to finish. I have heard 1 hour to 6 hours to complete the project. Cash is short - I just bought the car and NOW realize that at 113k I should do it before disaster strikes. I need the no frills 'how to' simply replace the belt.........
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Sep 19, 2008 | 02:03 PM
  #2  
http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId...00c1528007905b

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/showthr...highlight=neon
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Sep 19, 2008 | 09:59 PM
  #3  
1 of the best ways to find out how to do it is to buy a haynes manual....then you will have detailed instructions and pictures
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Sep 20, 2008 | 12:06 AM
  #4  
Replace the water pump and idler pulley as well.
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Sep 20, 2008 | 10:33 AM
  #5  
Go to your local parts store and buy the Haynes manual, they cost around $15. Start reading it to familiarize yourself with the timing belt replacement procedure.
The hardest part is getting the damper/pulley off the crank because in their wisdom Mopar decided a press fit instead of an interference fit and key was the way to go. They saved the cost of machining a key slot in the crank, broaching or machining a slot in the pulley hub, and of course, the three cents a key would have cost them.
Be warned that you will need a really good hub puller as it takes quite a lot of pressure to get the pulley off.
If you decide to have the work done for you, get the Haynes manual anyway because it cover a lot of the stuff you can do.
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Sep 21, 2008 | 03:31 AM
  #6  
yes the snap on blue point is the best way to go about pulling the Pully off with.
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Sep 21, 2008 | 11:34 AM
  #7  
Is the Snap-on Blue Point (budget Snap-on) a universal puller or engine specific? I had to mix and match parts from two different brands and sizes of pullers to get a set up that fit safely. I also went to a hardware store and got several 12 mm bolts that fit so I wouldn't abuse the damper attaching bolt. I use a bolt that was longer than the stock one to get the damper back on the crank snout.


Also what ever you use lubricate the threads with a good grease or moly cam break in lube.
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Sep 21, 2008 | 03:42 PM
  #8  
the snap-on puller uses a pushrod to push off of instead of the stock center bolt....and the puller is a specialty part....designed for use on mitsubishi and chrysler 4 cylinder engines...i have the model specification label out in the garage, but dont feel like going and digging for it.....

hell, i remove the center bolt....slap on the snap-on puller....and get on it for about 15 seconds with an impact wrench and the pulley falls right off
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Sep 21, 2008 | 06:45 PM
  #9  
I got the puller from autozone, cost me nothing and had the pulley off in minutes.
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