N2O
#22
RE: N2O
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IN REPLY TO ALL OF THIS:
-REMEMBER, MONEY IS MY ENEMY RIGHT NOW! LOL! I want something $600 or less that will get me going faster.
-N2O is NOT FLAMMABLE! It simply breaks apart into 2 parts nitrogen and 1 part oxygen. The oxygen feeds the flames of whatever you're burning (gasoline) but it does not catch fire itself. It simply makes the gasoline burn faster. In this burning faster, yes, it will burn hotter and more violently, but unless you puncture a nitrous bottle and pour flammable liquid all over it and light it, it won't explode. I figure it would do about the same as CO2. When I was at work once, our CO2 tank got punctured, but all it did was leak a tiny amount of frozen liquid CO2 and then freeze itself shut again. No fire, no explosion, even though CO2 will not feed flames or anything, either...Just my assumption that N2O would do about the same if punctured.
-Can you please explain more about which turbos will fit on a 98 SOHC Auto? And, exactly what will I need to buy to get it on?
...
IN REPLY TO ALL OF THIS:
-REMEMBER, MONEY IS MY ENEMY RIGHT NOW! LOL! I want something $600 or less that will get me going faster.
-N2O is NOT FLAMMABLE! It simply breaks apart into 2 parts nitrogen and 1 part oxygen. The oxygen feeds the flames of whatever you're burning (gasoline) but it does not catch fire itself. It simply makes the gasoline burn faster. In this burning faster, yes, it will burn hotter and more violently, but unless you puncture a nitrous bottle and pour flammable liquid all over it and light it, it won't explode. I figure it would do about the same as CO2. When I was at work once, our CO2 tank got punctured, but all it did was leak a tiny amount of frozen liquid CO2 and then freeze itself shut again. No fire, no explosion, even though CO2 will not feed flames or anything, either...Just my assumption that N2O would do about the same if punctured.
-Can you please explain more about which turbos will fit on a 98 SOHC Auto? And, exactly what will I need to buy to get it on?
#24
RE: N2O
The thing to get is the turbo manifold or header they make usually in cast iron or a high heat material. Should cost you no more then 400 dollars and the bigger downpipe. Go with the junkyard turbo like the ones weve stated. Get the fmic or smic intercooler w/ it and bolt it all right on get the piping kit...should only cost like 600 cuz its what they sell it for w/out turbo and you could have it all for thousands less then a turbo kit. and spend your money on the motor to get upgraded to 8-5-1 compression. The pistons and rings could cost almost 400 dollars for a set so do some shopping around to find the cheapest. DO NOT BUY CAST pistons only buy forged w/ this application... You dont have to worry to much about connecting rods cuz they are a lot better then honduhs even at 16 psi. SO you will also have to change your timing a bit as well as injectors and fuel flow. All this could cost in excess of 2500 dollars but still 7000 dollars less then buying it all outright. And when you want to upgrade to a high output turbo ball bearing or more then you can do a direct bolt on boost control and go race.... Good Idea to get a turbo applicable cam as well.... if u dont do the upgrades to your motor just run @6psi.
#25
RE: N2O
ORIGINAL: casper
Why not just put a turbo and nos on, build the motor, new cam, PCM, an LSD, slicks and have a 9 second car?????
Why not just put a turbo and nos on, build the motor, new cam, PCM, an LSD, slicks and have a 9 second car?????
btw. pcm? more like standalone and LOTS AND LOTS of tuning to run 9s
plan on spending a ton of money to run that fast :lol:
REMEMBER, MONEY IS MY ENEMY RIGHT NOW! LOL! I want something $600 or less that will get me going faster.
-Can you please explain more about which turbos will fit on a 98 SOHC Auto? And, exactly what will I need to buy to get it on?
Right most fmic were put on at dealerships around here.
You dont have to worry to much about connecting rods cuz they are a lot better then honduhs even at 16 psi.
SO you will also have to change your timing a bit
and if you are referring to cam timing. you do not need to change that at all when boosting. sure, some/a turbo grind cam would be optimal, but not necessary.
#26
RE: N2O
When I went and bought my cams they had a specific ordeal about the camming w. the turbo and said it would be an optimal upgrade. Mine are crane cams so you might not need it but they recommended it. No it isnt factory upgrade they just put em on round here in a college town it is more appealing for some reason. They would buy out the old 95-99 eclipses back from the owners and sell em w/ the FMIC on little upgrades. Dont ask me why...I wish I knew. Prolly more money for em... And about the 270 torque range..... you arent goin ta get that kinda torque from a mostly stock motor anyways so it is quite safe to run the stock connecting rods. The most hps youll prolly get from it is about 200-220 anyhow with a stock motor.
#28
RE: N2O
ORIGINAL: highrevr/tflea
And about the 270 torque range..... you arent goin ta get that kinda torque from a mostly stock motor anyways so it is quite safe to run the stock connecting rods. The most hps youll prolly get from it is about 200-220 anyhow with a stock motor.
And about the 270 torque range..... you arent goin ta get that kinda torque from a mostly stock motor anyways so it is quite safe to run the stock connecting rods. The most hps youll prolly get from it is about 200-220 anyhow with a stock motor.
ive also seen quite a few dynos of stock-internal turbo'd neons pushing that limit. heck, one in particular (turbo amy) is either around that area, or past it, and im pretty sure she said she was still on stock internals.
if you slap a big enough turbo on it, feed it enough fuel, and control the ignition timing, you can easily surpass that 270 tq range. no doubt. 20g turbo anyone? even the evo8 16g will surpass that limit as well. and while you can, its just not recommended of course
#29
#30
RE: N2O
That stuff is as reliable as a nuclear reactor that's running hot.
Those are completely opposite of what I was saying. You still need knowledge to make your car fast if it's a atx, actually you'd probably have to know more to get it faster than a mtx, racing with slicks is needed if you're really into it, so I don't know how that came up
Cheating, by definition, is to deceive or deprive by trickery, to swindle, mislead, fool, elude or escape. If you can logically explain exactly how using nitrous oxide is truly cheating, I'm all ears. Just because you don't understand it doesn't make it wrong.
Yes, I can make a nitrous setup that is just as reliable as any turbo setup or high compression setup. It all has to do with fuel trim, octane, and ignition timing - ultimately it has to do with peak internal cylinder pressure, but that's tough to measure real time on most cars... Morons (even not-so-morons) blow their engines all the time (even mostly stock) because they either can't or don't tune properly or don't use safety features (fuel pressure cutout, etc.), or they put too much torque on stock components. Nitrous is no different than any other type of forced induction in that respect.
Bottles are for babies... cute! That goes right up there with "There's no replacement for displacement" and "Horsepower sells cars, but torque wins races" as my all-time favorite ignoramus musclecar catchy sayings.