Hi Folks; Great Forum!Have a 96 Plymouth Neon automatic SOHC Highline that I just purchased. Runs great however after the car sits for several hours it requires four or five extra seconds of cranking before the engine fires up. Does not do this if restarted soon after shut off. I searched past threads and someone suggested it might be the fuel pump not holding pressure? The car just began doing this a few days ago. Up to that point it started right away every time. Car has 23K original mileage. Was in a rear ender but no frame damage; only fender damage. Just had the oil pressure sensor and cam timing sensor replaced due to both leaking oil, which fixed the oil leak. Also had the coolant flushed. Engine doesn't run hot at all, even with 100 degree F weather and aircon on. But after parking the car, the coolant reservoir sounds like some one making a pot of coffee. The tank is empty in the morning and full after parking at the end of the day. I'm getting ready to bring the car back to the mechanic as it did not do this prior to the flush. I'm thinking air in the system? Or is this normal?

 

Welcome to the forum!
This is correct about the fuel pressure. There is a check valve in the fuel pump that holds pressure in the system long after the car is turned off. The way to figure out if that's the problem is by hooking a fuel gauge to the fuel rail, start the car, shut it off, then come back 20 minutes later and see if it held or not. Sometimes but not usually a leaking injector can cause this also. On the coolant subject... It could be air in the system if it was not properly bled by the shop. It could also be crap coolant or to much water content. Could be a bad head gasket or radiator cap.

 

Thank you for the information. So as I understand it, this check valve is a part of the fuel pump and the only way to replace it would be to replace the entire pump?
As for the bubbling/boiling sound (loud) I also suspected sub-par coolant; I sure hope it's not a head gasket.
And one more question; 1st gen Neons require a spark plug change every 10k miles? Why so frequent?

 

That is correct the check valve is inside the pump. Fuel pressure should be checked first to make sure there is no internal leak in the system like a regulator going bad. I seen some manufactures say to change oil every 10k, not sure of the standards on there mileage intervals. I usually clean my spark plugs every oil change, and change them every 3 oil changes. I only use champion copper plugs in 1st gen neons. But I only drive 10k a year between 3 vehicles. I also use mobil 10w-30 in the summer and 5w-30 in the winter for oil. I change it every 3-4k.

 

Quite frankly, yes, that is what you have to do. Replace the entire unit because it is a package deal - pump, filter, fuel pressure regulator, and fuel level sending unit combined. You could possibly find someone somewhere to sell you the bits and pieces parts to fix it, but really, replacing a unit that old will benefit you later on anyway. Not difficult. Just drain the tank (there is a built in plug you can remove to assist you there). Then just undo the wires, tap the lock ring loose and it comes right out.

Unless you see symptoms of overheating, it is doing its job. the bubbling you hear is normal. The overflow tank fills up when the car gets hot, and returns some of it as it cools down. Just make sure you are not losing coolent and you have to replace any, and watch for leaks and milky oil. And while you are at it, just go ahead and replace the coolent. It is cheap and easy to do. Just be sure to turn on your heater to max heat when you refill to make sure you get as much air out as possible.



You don't. I have put 50K miles on my car after i rebuilt it, and guess what? I did not replace the wires then either. I have no idea how many miles they have on them. I test them (multimeter) to see if they are in spec when I replace the plugs, and so far, they have been.

 

Hes referring to the sending unit. Depending on where you get it from they may sell just a pump, or the sending unit as one piece. If your paying to have it done and you get the whole sending unit it may get a little pricey. I just replace the pump, I am cheapo and refuse to pay for something the car doesn't need. takes 5 minutes to get the pump out of the sending unit. Takes even less time for the regulator. Wouldn't hurt to do the fuel accumulator dodge update also. Don't forget metal and plastic tanks are completely different... 2 different beasts.

 

No part store around here carries anything but the whole unit, and they charge $225 for it. For my piece of mind, a new one now = less headaches later.

That and the fact that I absolutely hate taking my gas tank on/off or even getting into it unless I absolutely have to. I usually end up either wearing some gas, eating some gas, and/or just plain smelling like gas all day.

Again, just my 2c. If you like doing something different, be my guest.

 

Run the car to 1/4 a tank and you will get no gas on you, and you will not need to drop the tank all the way. I can order just the pump here but maybe we have a different supplier. The only way I would replace the plastic canister for the extra $125+ is if it was broken or my gas gauge didn't work. I just did a customers the other day and saved them $180 (after mark up of course) just doing the pump, took me 5 extra minutes to open the 3 clips and throw it in. But maybe people don't mind paying the extra to save 5 minutes, or as you said have peace of mind the gas gauge will work. Also if you really cant find just the pump, order it online. Some suppliers I go through only sell to business's.