Hi all,
The rear brakes on my '75 W200 havn't worked since I bought the truck and it's time to fix that issue, running with front brakes only is kinda sketchy. There are no brake lines going to the rear of the truck, so I'm assuming they haven't been looked at or used for over 12 years, so there is a LOT of rust.

From the research I've done I know that my truck either has a Dana 60 or 70 rear end, both of which require the axle shaft to be removed in order to get at the brake pads, correct? So my question is, how do I remove the axle shaft? I have all the bolts removed, but it won't budge. Any advice?

 

You do not remove the axles to get at the brake shoes (no pads). You do pull the brake drum but not the axles. If the drums are stuck you may have to adjust the brakes in and even use a hammer to get them off.

 

How do I take the drum off without removing the axle shaft? I don't see any possible way to take it off without removing the shaft.

I did get the shaft out though. Took a lot of PB blaster and a few dozen shots with a BFH. Next I gotta get the axle nut off, then the whole drum should slide off right? Or do I need to pry those bearings out?

 

you should be able to pull them straight off but there might a ridge on the outside of the drum but, since the brake have been disconnected they might just come off with a bit of beating. like SEAL said you do not have to remove the axel to the drums.

 

I stand corrected. You were right. You do have to remove the axle before the drum on the 60 and 70 rear. Sorry. The 60 & 70 axles are built more like the front axles in their construction. Bend the locking tabs back so you can remove the locking nut, lock ring and adjusting nut. The outer bearing should come right out and the hub and drum should come off if it is not hung up on the shoes.

 

Thanks SEAL, I'm still trying to find a 2-9/16" socket to fit the locking nut. I refuse to pay $27 for a tool that I'm only gonna use once.

So now that I removed the axle shaft, do I need to get new axle seals too? Or is the axle seal just the cap on the end of the shaft? What about the bearings? Do they NEED to be replaced or can I get away with putting the old ones back on?

 

I know it wasn't the proper way, but I used a chisel to remove the first one ( someone else had done it before) After having it removed, I found a piece of 2 1/2" pipe ( was from an old lolly column outa the basement) and tapped the nut into the end, and then hammered the faccets flat around the nut. Which made a crude socket. The piece of pipe is about 18" long, I then drilled 5/8" cross-holes in the other end, so I could stick a piece of 1/2" round bar through for alittle leverage.

I made this years ago, and it I still use it today. Works great!!


As far as seals go, you only have inners. The outer is your gasket on the end of the axle shaft. If they're leaking, I'd recommend doing the bearings too. If not, I'd still replace the seals. Cuz it will pi$$ you off if you ruin your new shoes with gear oil! I learned the hard-way.

 

Have you asked the local parts houses if they have a tool loaner program for the socket. I always replace the seals and gaskets and clean and inspect the bearings/races. If they show any wear or give me any reason to suspect them I replace them. I do this to save the additional labor/parts that they will destroy if they are allowed to fail. Not to mention the inconvenience of sitting on the side of the road and a tow truck bill.

 

A lot of them do have loaner programs, but they don't have a socket that big. I found one at Auto Value but they want 23 bucks for it. Still kinda steep. I may try what Ironmower suggested as I do have a length of 2.5" exhaust pipe laying around somewhere. The only problem is, how do I get the nut off in the first place?

And I'll look into getting new seals. Are they hard to replace or do you just slap them in there?

 

The set up is of the same type and construction as the front end of any older car only heavier. The end of the rear axle tube acts the same as the front spindle of a car only it is hollow. With the 60 & 70 series differential the axle itself does not support the weight of the truck and does not touch the bearings. It only turns the wheel and that is how they get the heavier load rating.
Once the hub is removed you just pry out the old seal, clean and inspect the inner bearing, re-grease the bearing, and drive in a new seal.
When I worked at Advance we could pull any tool we sold out of inventory and put it into our loaner program. This may have changed as that was many years ago but it never hurts to ask if they will do that.