Gm on a mopar?

I know I know, I'm a cheap old B*stard .... I have been having some ignition issues for awhile now. ... Then when I actually wired the ignition for 12V, installed the ballast resistor and new coil .... things really got weird.
The ballast resistor has ignition 1 ignition 2 for starting .... this is a mopar thing. So when the key is in the start position it sends a full 12V to the coil to start. .... When working correctly it all works fine.
My truck has a stomp starter on the floor, not a ignition switch with a start position .... so it gets complicated and this gave me starting issues. .... Bypassing the Mopar ignition wiring system will be a great benefit to me.

Here is a write up on the how to written in 2006, is quite good and might interest anyone with a older mopar electronic ignition. https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779

I like the way Dead Dodge garage makes it simple to understand and pretty informative .... He has used the conversion for over 12 years now.
I have still not decided which coil to use yet .... My daily driver is a chebby truck, I have the exact same coil as a spare sitting on a shelf .... tempting to just use it.
Also thinking about aesthetics .... I want to keep it looking like a old truck .... A beater with a heater ..... thinking about a petronix flame thrower to keep the old school look.



For fun here is a old video of when I first got the engine running after it sat in a field for 20+ years .... the coil bracket doubles as a wire loom for the plug wires and sits on top of the engine .... be nice to keep it looking stock while still having the modern ignition .... If I could only disguise the GM alternator

 

I will never understand why people put HEI's in mopars. Less wires is the only thing i can come up with. You could use a relay to switch over the voltage threw the ballast on the stomp starter. Less work then wiring the HEI in.

 

HEI is quick, easy, and most importantly, completely dependable. Never had any problems with it, on numerous cars...... Now, distributor caps? Yep. AutoZone seemed to have a run of bad ones way back when, and they would last about two hours in my car...... Bought a good accel cap, and no more problems.

That said, I haven't had any problems with the ignition on my dodges either, going all the way back to my 72 challenger...... I didn't care for the ignition system on my 96 2500 with the 5.9..... but, my 8.0 in my 98 works quite well. (no distributor.....)

 

Sometimes we just have to do what we feel we have to do .... I realize I may have issues with my new 7mm plug wires, may have issues and need to get a better cap, I do need a new coil because my existing new coil requires a external ballast resistor .... I'm still pleased at this time going with the GM ignition control module. Very simple and known to be dependable.

I got to thinking about all the non Dodge parts in the truck .... dimmer switch is 1979 Peterbuilt, E-brake cable is Ford Mustang,
Tail light bracket, brake light switch, bucket seats, alternator/voltage regulator, ICM, spark plugs .... all GM or AC Delco parts.
My daily driver is a chebby with a 350/NV3500 .... can't shame me about using GM parts where they happen to be a good fit

 

Got the distributor installed, had to go back to pulling up TDC and set it in and run the plug wires .... I forgot where the rotor was pointing
I pulled the plugs and got them set to .045 .... I'm certain that should give me 3HP more .... Since the engine puts out 95HP, I will be pushing the 100HP threshold

I have since moved on to the steering wheel ... this thing is junk ... I have been tempted to buy a better one ... lets fix one and paint it, just to say we did that.

Nobody can claim I ruined a good wheel if it does not come out .... besides I plan to put a leather steering wheel cover over it anyways, nobody will see how bad it is.

First time using the PC-7 epoxy product ... would be nice if it was smooth and creamy ... it is thick and gooey and difficult to spread nice with a wooden stick.
It sands very nicely though ... very quick with a orbital sander to get close, then will be hours and multiple coats to get it finished for paint .... It will be a solid working wheel when finished.



Got a week or so of good weather coming up. I need to prep and paint the inside of the cab .... It is 90% done already ... just some small things need to be done and then a good heavy coat of paint to finish it off. I can then start with wiring the truck under dash and putting things back together for a final time.

 

JB weld is "smooth and creamy" but it would run so the putty is better for what you are doing. I've used tape with JB weld to keep it where I want it until it dries. What are those old wheels made out of Bakelite?

 

I think it is bakelite .... or a substitute for it around a metal frame.
My metal frame is solid and it is not a safety issue, just ascetics and trying to make it look nice and comfortable to hold while driving. .... Would be easier to just buy a better wheel

 

I restored a steering wheel off a late 1930's Packard once. It took nearly two weeks but looked like new when I got done. I cleaned it really good and worked the cracks to smooth them out. Once it was cleaned with isopropyl alcohol, I let it air dry for a half hour. I used bondo to fill the cracks and missing sections. Once the bondo set, then came the fun part. Shaping the finger bumps and such. I spent nearly a week of sanding and shaping. It didn't do the paint but when we both got done, you couldn't tell it wasn't original. The owner gave both of us a bonus as we did it cheaper than a restoration shop and he got it quicker. While it was sisfying and I got paid pretty well, I never want to do that again.

 

@ol' grouch maybe we all just need to do it one time to know we do not want to do it again

 

That sounds like porting and polishing heads! Not a fun job.