Been kinda busy...still lurk, but not as much as I used to...

Anyhow, I have what I think is going to turn into a real dilemma...

'99 SLT Extended Cab 318 5 speed...

Both front fenders have cancer...
Chrome front bumper has cancer...
Paint is peeling from the roof...

Aside from these cosmetic issues, the truck is decent. It still shines when it is clean...the body issue are limited to some very specific pieces of metal...interior is basically mint...

Now, I am completely willing to do some hillbilly body work on this sucker. I have no problem driving around with primer gray fenders. The rusty bumper, prolly gotta get that fixed. But, I think I can square the body away good enough for my needs for $500...

Needs new tires. 31 x 10.5 x 15. $500 +.

Plenum gasket is leaking. 1 quart every 700 miles or so. $80 in parts, two days labor. I don't have the time to do this job right now...

4 wheel drive is kaput. I was driving her the a while back and it just went clang and then started GRINDING - like it sounds as if whatever the axles mesh with in the case is completely broken - it is a BAD noise...

Also, beginning yesterday afternoon, I have a noise coming from the front end in 2 wheel drive...its motion related, so I am guessing it is hubs or something along those lines...haven't looked yet, to be honest...but it is getting worse...

Finally, it appears I am developing a rear main leak. I have a nice little dribble of oil from that area after it sits overnight. Clutch will slip once in a while as well...

So, I am looking at basically completely replacing the front end on the truck...plus the rear main, plus the intake gasket, plus (more than likely) a clutch...

I can sell it, probably for $750 in its current condition. I wouldn't pay more than that for it.

In pristine condition, it is worth, what $4,500? It is not ever going to get to that condition again though...

So, I have a $3,000 truck that needs probably $2,500 worth of work done to it...

UGH.

I have a car to drive in the summer, so I can park the truck once it gets nicer and slowly pick off the repairs...but, even using that approach, is it really worth fixing? Frankly, I doubt I will be able to fix the front end myself. I simply do not have the time, space, or tools.

Here are my thoughts. Tell me what you think.

Pay to fix the 4 wheel drive and front end. Ignore the rest of the crap. Hope it doesn't make me walk. Sound reasonable?

 

Go to a junk yard and start pickin up the front end parts. I have the same problem with my front fenders rotting. I fixed mine driver side one last year didnt cost me anything execpt a can of primer all I did was mig in a piece of metal. Plentum gasket isnt that hard to do read up on it and you can get it done in about 4 hrs or so. Remember to get new intake manifold bolts the job isnt that hard just remember where each bolts go. I helped my buddy do his on his ram and both of us working took use about 2-3 hrs start to finish

 

I would find parts..
car-part.com can get you a lot. You can swap things if you need to...update etc. Id get a reman motor if you put the time/cash into the rest of the driveline. If you know the rest of the motor is stout, then just do the plenum and have fun

 

Like they said in the movie Seabiscuit, "You dont throw a life away just because it's a little banged up".

Since you have another car to drive while you fix your truck, and it sounds like you do want to keep the truck, I say park it and fix it at your own pace as you can afford it.

Dakota's are damn good trucks. Personally I would have a real hard time getting rid of my Dakota, for any reason.

Jimmy

 

Hubs - ordered (Timken)

Axle Shafts / CV - ordered

Total cost for all parts, both sides - $309 with shipping. Not too bad, I think...

I think I have all the stuff I need assembled:

14, 18, 19, 22, 32 mm sockets
T47 Torx
1/2" impact wrench and big long extension
PB Blaster (anyone have a suggestion that may work better? I am picking it up tomorrow on my way home from work and plan on spraying everything down multiple times between now and Saturday as a knuckle saving idea)
Propane torch (just in case some idiot put red lock-tite on any of the bolts)

Going to tackle that this coming Saturday. Should get rid of at least some of the noises up there.

Anyone have a list of the bushings and all that crap that can be replaced in the front end? Just wondering...

 

I like Kroil or Aero-Kroil a lot better than PB Blaster. I have heard Ace Hardware sells it, maybe check where you live. I inherited a couple cans from my gf's dad. You can also make your own penetrant with a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. Some say that a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and a strong solvent like Berryman's B-12 Chemtool really works great as a home-made penetrant too.

Jimmy

 

Depending on your front sway size, I have a set of extra bushings...

I like CRC for penetrating oil...but I think anything will work if applied liberally, and ahead of time...Another big helper is air tools. Impact and butterfly...but, thats only if you ahve access, and obviously not impossible without...

 

yeah re do the bushings in the front end sway bar, i have to do it as well. haha.

 

If both your car and truck are paid for, I would keep the truck. Since you have another vehicle, just fix things as you can. Don't worry about the body as much as the mechanical things. IMO the mechanical is more important and I would think you would really want that front end fixed for next winter seeing you are in MI. What kind of car do you have?

 

I am keeping the truck for sure. It owes me nothing. I was more concerned about determining which fixes were "worth" doing and which I should ignore...

I tracked my parts...they shipped from 3 different locations...first package arrived today, second is due tomorrow, third is due Friday...I will be POd if it doesn't get here in time for me to do this Saturday...

I also have a hankering suspicion I need a transfer case...but, I don't see anything leaking under there (nothing on the nice white snow under the truck other than the previously mentioned motor oil), it does not seem to be cracked, it is not exploded like some that I found looking around on the web...so who knows...it could be my cv joint in the passenger side, which seems to be the source of the most racket...in any event, I will spend the little amount to get the bearings and stuff in good order, and if that does not fix it, I suppose it will be on to the transfer case...

I have a '95 Mustang with a 5.0. Nice summer cruiser, but not really suitable for Michigan roads in the winter...