Well today my front brake line burst in my driveway. I'm just happy it did not happen on the road or I would have got into an accident for sure.

Anyway, the question I have is the brake line i need is 3/16", but the end flare is a bubble flare NOT a double flare. Is that normal, for the Dakota's?
I went to 3 different auto stores today and every pre made line was a inverted flare (aka Double flared.)
I have not made a flare on a brake line in many years, but if i remember correctly the Bubble flare when you use the flare tool and the adapter but DON'T use the clamp a second time to press the inside of the brake line... is that correct?

Now since I need to replace that brake line anyway I want to replace all my front brake lines from the master cylinder to both front calipers. I noticed that the brakes are split by a 3 way splitter on the drivers side frame rail right behind the d/s front tire. The fittings in the splitter are a different size then the fittings in the calipers. Does anyone know what size those fitting are on that 3 way splitter?

The top of the splitter goes to the master Cly. The back goes to the p/s front caliper, and the front of the splitter goes to the drivers side front caliper. I measured the lines and found out that the drivers side is only about a foot long from that 3way splitter to the rubber d/s brake hose. The passengers side is alot longer since it goes around the frame and to the other side. I figure its about 8 feet with all the bends.

Oh also, do I have to bleed my back brakes after I replace my front brake lines? My master cly, still has fluid in the back of it, but its dry up front...

If any one has replaced there front brake lines PLEASE help me out. Let me know if I'm missing something...
Thanks.

 

no, just top off the backs as needed, and let them sit. But you'll definately need to do a top-down bleed (starting at the MC with an improvised bench bleed, then bleeding at the T, then again at both front calipers, this is our prefered method), since your MC is dry.

 

You can buy pre-bent lines for your dak. Do a google search there are a hundred places that sell them.

You won't need to bench bleed the master cyl unless you replace it. If it worked before it has alreacy been bled.

You will not need to bleed the rear unless you remove one of the lines. They are seperate from the master down.

You can buy bulk steel line at any parts store, but they won't know the size you will need to bring in a section to make sure it is correct & you will need to double flare the lines. If they are not double flared now they should be.

 

The guys at the parts store won't know what fittings you need, so bring the old ones with you. And there are adaptors made for those odd size fittings, and 6"lines with the odd size on one end and 3/8' on the other.

When you bleede brakes (front or rear) start farthest from the master cyl and work inwards.
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Ok I did this last summer I had a hell of a problem finding a line and it turns out you have to get a import brake lines not a domestic line and for fittings you need to go to napa for them I know autozone and advanced didnt carry them. I took in my old lines the one off the 3 way splitter and one going to the rubber line up front and you need 3 connectors for the splitter and bad part is they are like 7.00 at napa.

 

We've always start over at the MC port, when it goes dry. On the camaro (in my sig), we bled the lines at a total of 8 places, not including the 16 bleeder screws. We did MC front port (1), MC back port (2), then at the back T (3), then the front T (4), then the right side flex lines (5 & 6), the left side flex lines (7 & 8). Then the 16 bleeder screws. Not saying that you HAVE to do it that way, but that's how we did it, to get the most air out.

 

I just replaced the lines on the front of a 97 Dak. It was 11 feet of line to the drivers side from the T. You'll need a little hand bender and gentle touch to bend it along the front of the truck. I used a 6 foot and 5 foot ready made line with the appropriate adapters from Advance Auto. I put a splice right in front using a union. Only way I could get both ends in and up to the wheel wells. I sprayed the entire lines with rust preventer before putting them in, these aftermarket ones corrode fast.

 

Wow - I get it for a race car - but that seems like overkill to me. I've bled a lot of brakes & never done it like that. Not saying its wrong, Just a lot of work.

The bench bleed on the master cyl is to get any bubbles out of the master itself. You don't need to do this step - but if you don't then you need to push those bubbles through the entire line & it takes forever to bleed them correctly. But if you have already been using the master - it already has brake fluid in the bore so you do not have any bubbles (unless the res went dry for some reason).

Just trying to save you a step. If it makes you feel better to bleed from the top - please do so. It certainly wont hurt & could give you peace of mind.

 

Took 2 gallons of brake fluid total, and that's with re-using alot of it. Took 6 hours total. The street cars, We only do the 4 corners, unless changing the MC, then we bench bleed of course. It's just a matter of getting as much air out of the system as possible. We're also running the 2psi check valves on the racecar, something you normally wouldn't do for a street car. (our MC is 6" below the axle centerline so they're required)

 

Well i just finished her up today ( do to 2 days of rain). I went to auto zone and got a 25 foot spool of 3/16" brake line and a brake line flare tool, and just went to work. I think it came out pretty good overall. When all is said and done it cost me just under 75 bucks, for the brake line, the flare tool, the fittings and some brake cleaner. I think thats not too bad overall, because the dealer wanted 50 bucks for just one brake line.
I too sprayed some rust preventer on the aftermarket brake lines just for some peace of mind.