Hello to all of you dakota owners out there! I've owned my '01 Dakota Sport since it was new (it now has 166,000 miles on it). I've had very little trouble with this truck (other than an overheating issue about 20,000 miles ago). Now, all of the sudden, the truck has keeled over. Prepare yourself, this is a lot of information. :P

I started it up without issue, as usual, and drove a few miles to a convenience store. Killed it, went in, came back out, pressed unlock on keyfob (aftermarket Code Alarm 610 CA-610) and all hell broke loose... The alarm sounded but I was able to press the unlock button again and shut it off. Then, when I went to start the truck, nada - just clicking and buzzing (seemed to coming from every relay under the dash), lights on gauge pod were off/on sporadically. Turned the key to the off position and removed from cylinder. Re-inserted the key with great hope but was sad to see an even worse scenario (no sounds, no lights, nothing). So, after calling for some assistance and pushing the truck away from the pumps we fetched the load tester and battery cables. Battery tested BAD. Bought a new battery, installed it - still nothing. Now, oddly, after towing it home put the key in the ignition and I did hear the relays clicking (several in PDC and both in fuse panel) along with lights on dash flickering. I also hear the flasher clicking. The alarm module was clicking until I removed it.

So, here I am. Thinking I may have a CTM issue (as so many seem to have reported). I have no way of testing the module and I can't drive it to a dealer. Small town only has chevy and ford dealers so my closest dealer option is about 70 miles away.

Questions...

1. Can a dealer test the standalone (detached from truck) CTM with their scan tool?
2. Does this even sound like a CTM issue?

Additional Info
'01 3.9ltr sport (auto trans, tilt+cruise, manual locks/windows/seats)
Checked all fuses in fuse panel AND PDC.
Multimeter between NEG cable and NEG battery terminal shows .71 (10 AMP setting) with CTM connected - 0.00 disconnected.
Also, voltage readings for RD/LB wire on steering column changes from 11.85(CTM disconnected) to 9.33(CTM connected)


Thank you for taking the time to read this. Any help is greatly appreciated.
-Andy

 

Any junk yards around? You can get one from there for pretty cheap just to see if it will work. I can get one from my local yard for 20.00

 

Welcome to the forum.

Yes, to me this sounds like a serious CTM problem. The dealer can not check the CTM out of the truck. The CTM has to be installed the truck so the dealer can communicate with it via the DRB3 scan tool connected to your OBD2 port. The DRB3 is the only way to tell for sure if the CTM is bad but it sure sounds like your CTM is toast if you ask me.

You should have at least 12.5 volts on the battery with the engine not running and no ignition or accessories on and 13.5 on up to around 14.5 volts with the engine idling. A drop of 3 volts with the CTM connected is a heck of a lot of voltage loss. The red/blue wire at the column is the main voltage B+ wire from the Power Distribution Center. It should have 12.5 volts on it too, with the engine off.

.7 amps is way too much of a draw on the electrical system. It should be more like .3 amps or less. Something in the CTM is drawing a whole lot of voltage. All the clicking and relays going crazy is also indicative of a failed CTM but I personally have never heard of one having this many problems at once.

I think you may be having problems with your alternator too. I think this problem could be that the alternator went bad and it took the 3 miles you drove to the store to kill the battery, and that in turn caused some circuit or circuits in the CTM to freak out too. I say that because you don't very often see CTM failure in Sport or Base model Dakota's. Just about every CTM failure I have read or heard about was in a loaded truck with all the power options and keyless entry. The low voltage problem is probably what caused your alarm to flip out too. Alarm modules are extremely sensitive to voltage drops.

Dakota's are very sensitive to low voltage problems and you get a lot of these kinds of problems if your battery drops below 12 or at the most upwards of 11.5 volts. The new battery you installed should have 12.5 volts on it too.

I would take the new battery out of the truck and trickle charge it overnight or longer. Then remove the alternator and have it checked at a parts store. If the new battery doesn't have increased voltage on it after charging overnight I would take it back where you bought it for an exchange. You may also need a new CTM. If you do it is best to buy it from the dealer, but you might try one from a junk yard first. It needs to come from a donor truck with the same electrical options as yours. I would not buy a sensitive electrical part form a junk yard because there is no way to be sure it works or how long it will last. If you use a junk yard CTM maybe tell the manager what you are doing and see if he will give a refund if their CTM doesn't work. Some yard guys will do a refund, and some won't.

There is also a possibility that the alternator and battery are bad and the CTM may just be OK. If you get a fully charged battery and a working alternator, you might try reinstalling the original CTM and see if it works. Some guys here have had luck with unplugging the CTM for 20 minutes or so to reset it and then it works again after that.

Others here who have had CTM problems will have more info for you. This is my 2 cents on it. I hope this helps you out. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Jimmy

 

I checked the local yards but none of them have any dakota or durango parts in stock. There are a couple of bigger yards within driving distance (I have another vehicle) but I haven't checked with them, yet.

 

Wow. Thanks for the write-up. I've had the truck disconnected from the NEW battery for almost a week, now. I've disconnected and reconnected the CTM without any luck. The most I can get out of the truck is a few clicks from the relays in the PDC and fuse panel. I hooked up the load tester to the NEW battery and it showed to be GOOD.

I think I'll do as you say and take the alternator in for a quick test. However, regardless of whether the alternator checks out, I think I'll be purchasing a new/used CTM.

Since my truck doesn't have pwr windows/locks, I'm thinking I may be able to get away with a used non-reprogrammed module. It'd be worth a shot on a truck that's only worth a few grand (on a good day).

Thanks again for the help.
-Andy

 

Something is wrong somewhere that's for sure. Check the battery cables and be sure there's no corrosion on the cable ends and no green fungus in the copper cable itself. Be sure to check all the grounds. There is one ground lug in front of each valve cover, there are ground lugs in the inside fender wells, one on the frame behind the left front tire and in each kick panel. Dakota's can be kind of notorious for bad grounds and they will really throw a fit if you have a bad or corroded ground connection. You need clean bare shiny metal on the ring connectors and the metal surface itself. A bad ground will really wig out the battery, alternator and the CTM too. You might need a new CTM but if the ground or B+ voltage in the truck has problems a new CTM may not fix the problem.

Jimmy

 

Any luck with it yet?

Jimmy

 

I had a CTM problem with my truck, and like Jimmy said, mine was fully loaded. Electric everything (4wd, locks, windows, mirrors, cruise, ect).

My issue was a lot different though. Mine started off slowly and worsened over time. The first time it happened was after washing my truck. I'm not sure if the moisture had anything to do with it but it's likely. At first I could get it back by just unhooking the battery for 5-10 minutes and everything would be alright. Then it got to the point where my locks would continue to try and look over and over again, head lights would flicker on and off, horn would sound randomly. Crazy things like that.

I also had an aftermarket alarm system on the truck that the previous owner had installed. The dealer told me when they replaced my CTM, that the alarm system was installed incorrectly and some how this lead to a CTM failure. I'm not sure exactly how, it was a while ago and forget if they explained.

Your problems is weird since it was like all at once everything went to hell. I think it is a CTM problem, but it's just a lot different then most cases. With manual locks and windows and what not, usually a CTM failure isn't as likely, let alone an all of the sudden fall out. I think though that there is a common piece here and that is, we both had aftermarket alarm systems. I'm not sure how they can make a CTM fail, but I'm sure Jimmy could explain it more, I think he may have even used to install these systems, I know he did stereos and what not.

I had mine replaced at the dealer and it cost me in the neighborhood of $400. I couldn't fine one at a junkyard so I didn't have much of an option. I had a hard enough time finding the same wheels at a yard let a long a CTM.


And on a side not, damn Jimmy, that was a great write up like always. You have some very helpful insight and I don't know how you know as much as you do about this stuff...

 

Thanks Brad. I spend a lot of time on here and a few other forums reading mostly about cars, trucks and reading other people's problems and what the causes and solutions were. I read a lot about maintenance, tires, oil and filters, pretty much anything to do with cars and trucks. But I am not into speed, performance or Nascar. I used to hang out at the drag strip when I was 19 and 20 years old but I grew out of that I guess.

I have a lot of experience troubleshooting electrical problems from the years I spent as a car audio and alarm installer. Anytime someone here has that kind of problem I like to help out if I can. I used to read a lot of info on dodgedakotas.com before I came here. There was a guy there that posted a whole lot of detailed info on the CTM. I don't go on dodgedakotas.com any more. It's full of idiots and punks that mostly insult each other and there are a lot of trolls there now and put up false posts just to clog the site. They flame each other a lot too. It's kind of like craigslist for Dakotas now. No thanks.

I am trying to learn more about engine mechanics and transmission problems. I am interested in Amullins's CTM/alternator/whatever it is problem because I am curious about my own alternator. I wonder how long they last. I am going on vacation next month, up to visit my daughter at Hilton Head Island, South Carolina. My truck has 144K on it now and if the Dodge alternators only last say 150K I will replace mine before I hit the road. I don't want to be stuck on the side of I-95 in the July heat with a dead battery and toasted alternator. I have towing and roadside assistance on my truck insurance policy but that's not the point. I don't want to have to use the towing policy.

Like everyone else here I really enjoy working on my truck and keeping it in the best shape I can. I like to help out on here when I see someone has a problem I might know something about.

Jimmy

 

I haven't had a chance to take the alternator in for bench testing, yet. I will calling the dealer for a new CTM and taking the alternator down to AZ or O'Reilly, on monday.

@Brad
I completely uninstalled the alarm/remote start/keyless entry (after this issue presented itself), thinking that the alarm may be the source of the problem. Well, except for the door modules. I'm not sure I'll worry about them seeing as I have manual locks/windows. At any rate, removing the alarm didn't fix anything. Although, it may have caused the whole ordeal.

@Jimmy
This is my OEM alternator. Info below for identification.
56030 914AB
TN121000-4451-12v
Denso 70113

I'll keep y'all updated of any progress.

Thanks,
-Andy