Ball Joint Question... (and other front-end issues)
#1
Ball Joint Question... (and other front-end issues)
Hey guys.
Sorry to hit y'all with another ball joint topic but none of the ones I searched through on this site answered the questions I had.
A little background info: the truck is a 2003 "Sport", extended cab, 4x4, 4.7L, manual trans and nearly 170k miles. I took it to a local shop for new tires and they dianosed a few front end problems. The estimate they gave me was $800 to do one lower ball joint and two tie rods. All parts on the estimate were Moog. That seemed excessive to me, so I passed. I know the tie rods are easy to do; I think I can handle those on my own. Here are the questions I had about the ball joint repair:
1) Am I going to have to uncouple the A-arms from the suspension and relieve the tension on the torsion bar? If so, is that hard to do?
2) If I do one lower ball joint, should I do the other one too? (logic being that it's probably not too far behind and I'll have to rent the ball joint press anyway)
3) Aside from the tie-rod ends and ball joints, is there anything else I should do while I'm "in the neighborhood"?
Thanks for your help, guys. Much appreciated.
Sorry to hit y'all with another ball joint topic but none of the ones I searched through on this site answered the questions I had.
A little background info: the truck is a 2003 "Sport", extended cab, 4x4, 4.7L, manual trans and nearly 170k miles. I took it to a local shop for new tires and they dianosed a few front end problems. The estimate they gave me was $800 to do one lower ball joint and two tie rods. All parts on the estimate were Moog. That seemed excessive to me, so I passed. I know the tie rods are easy to do; I think I can handle those on my own. Here are the questions I had about the ball joint repair:
1) Am I going to have to uncouple the A-arms from the suspension and relieve the tension on the torsion bar? If so, is that hard to do?
2) If I do one lower ball joint, should I do the other one too? (logic being that it's probably not too far behind and I'll have to rent the ball joint press anyway)
3) Aside from the tie-rod ends and ball joints, is there anything else I should do while I'm "in the neighborhood"?
Thanks for your help, guys. Much appreciated.
#2
Lower ball joints are pretty hard. Firstly, there's no guarantee you'll be able to press those ball joints off and get the new ones in. I tried..couldn't do it. Basically you have to take the axle off the hub...which is fun! not. Have a breaker bar and/or impact hammer ready. I was literally jumping on the breaker bar to just get the axle nut off. Once you finally get through that...then you have to pound the shaft through the hub...sledge is nice and handy for that...but you'd have to be careful to not flare the end off. Oh, and also don't hit the threads on your lugs...you won't be able to get the nuts back on. Basically what I'm trying to say...it's about $100 per ball joint (at least the powers are) just for the labor...but it's kind of worth it, actually. Unless of course you actually can get the ball joint pressed off. This is from personal experience. It took me about 3 hours trying to get everything off, and another hour grinding to ring off the top and pressing the joint out...all for it not to budge. I put everything back together in about 10 minutes, and just limped it to the shop. Good thing about the lower ball joint, is when you fail at doing the job by yourself...you don't have to worry about it falling out as you drive. Soo...you can try it, but worst case scenario, you have to put it back together and limp to the shop...might as well try first to save money, right?
#4
best to do all at same time
I dont know the 4X4 suspension but its always best to replace all you can at one time the parts are not that expensive well on a 2wd Im not sure on a 4X4 on 2wd you can get it all done in two days
Its kind of cool to get it done and drive a solid front end again.
Its kind of cool to get it done and drive a solid front end again.
#5
I just did this, this weekend. Do you have access to air tools? A shop press? They just make life easier. You do need a press for the lowers...
Anyway, not sure my buddy wants to have his site out there, so I wont post it yet...but he has an 02 and did his last year. He had a helper who video-ed and documented. Very useful. Go to youtube, look up http://www.youtube.com/user/mreinsmith
Its pretty useful, and easy to see. Now, He used all Napa parts, and I used XRF (joints). I did get one Moog link...I paid just about 200 for all 4 ball joints. Energy control arm bushings(do them while you're there) are 50(ebay) to 65 on 4wheelparts I think. They are 2 weeks out from the manufacturer. Anyway, I can gladly answer lots of questions, and maybe do a writeup later, but I didnt take pictures, so it wouldn't be 100% great.
It doesnt take a lot, and most specialty tools can be rented....if I had all the parts, itd be 2 days tops. A less confident mechanic, plan on 3-4. Oh, and if I didnt break a bolt...
Anyway, not sure my buddy wants to have his site out there, so I wont post it yet...but he has an 02 and did his last year. He had a helper who video-ed and documented. Very useful. Go to youtube, look up http://www.youtube.com/user/mreinsmith
Its pretty useful, and easy to see. Now, He used all Napa parts, and I used XRF (joints). I did get one Moog link...I paid just about 200 for all 4 ball joints. Energy control arm bushings(do them while you're there) are 50(ebay) to 65 on 4wheelparts I think. They are 2 weeks out from the manufacturer. Anyway, I can gladly answer lots of questions, and maybe do a writeup later, but I didnt take pictures, so it wouldn't be 100% great.
It doesnt take a lot, and most specialty tools can be rented....if I had all the parts, itd be 2 days tops. A less confident mechanic, plan on 3-4. Oh, and if I didnt break a bolt...
#6
The lowers are pretty difficult but the uppers aren't bad at all as long as you have a pickle fork. I took mine to a shop to do the lowers. The shop did both lower ball joints, the control arm bushings, and one of the half shafts for $800. It's a lot of money but they did a lot. Doing control arm bushings isn't easy either.
#7
The bushings turned out to be cake...well, cause I have a press and air chisel. I would be weary of any 'stock' parts you get for bushings. My friend got Napa ones, and they werent correct. Energy were the only ones he found. They are more money, but should last longer too.
One other point is, are you going to be wrenching a while? If you spend $800 at a shop, what kind of tools could that get you? eitehr way, call it $300 in parts. So, 500 in labor, or tools that you can use later. That is how I look at things if it is something that will come up again, or be needed at a later date.
One other point is, are you going to be wrenching a while? If you spend $800 at a shop, what kind of tools could that get you? eitehr way, call it $300 in parts. So, 500 in labor, or tools that you can use later. That is how I look at things if it is something that will come up again, or be needed at a later date.
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#8
#9
The bushings turned out to be cake...well, cause I have a press and air chisel. I would be weary of any 'stock' parts you get for bushings. My friend got Napa ones, and they werent correct. Energy were the only ones he found. They are more money, but should last longer too.
One other point is, are you going to be wrenching a while? If you spend $800 at a shop, what kind of tools could that get you? eitehr way, call it $300 in parts. So, 500 in labor, or tools that you can use later. That is how I look at things if it is something that will come up again, or be needed at a later date.
One other point is, are you going to be wrenching a while? If you spend $800 at a shop, what kind of tools could that get you? eitehr way, call it $300 in parts. So, 500 in labor, or tools that you can use later. That is how I look at things if it is something that will come up again, or be needed at a later date.
#10
98, see youtube, thats about as much as you'll need.
one note about the lower *****...they press in, and are retained with a snap ring. This also puts them higher in the A arm. You need to make note of where you place your zerc fitting. either straight forward or backwards....I tried to angle in, but the CV joint is too tight..so, beware!
Now, if someone wants to come to my place, and take pics while I do it, I can do another set....see if I can do it in one day!
one note about the lower *****...they press in, and are retained with a snap ring. This also puts them higher in the A arm. You need to make note of where you place your zerc fitting. either straight forward or backwards....I tried to angle in, but the CV joint is too tight..so, beware!
Now, if someone wants to come to my place, and take pics while I do it, I can do another set....see if I can do it in one day!