I could be wrong but on your gauge set you should be looking at the inner most numbers they say PSI

That gauge set sucks very hard to read.

So it looks like 85 on the low side and almost the same on the high side not good.

 

He likely has a leak, how big we can't tell - yet. All systems lose pressure after a while.

The easy repair, rebuild the whole system. The cheap repair, replace what you need. It all boils down to money and time.

Most DIY can't recover freon, flush the system, or pump down the system.

With those pressures the compressor should run, unless it is dropping down low enough to trip the low pressure cut-off which is likely. Balanced pressures, as he is showing on the gauges - yes, the inner scale, are normal for a system off as it will equalize OR indicated a failed compressor.

Get the compressor running first, then see what you need to do to make the long term repairs. There is no use flushing a system with a failed compressor.

 

Only one of those you list is hard well you know what I mean you should not do is the freon recovering.

Well most of us keep mum on that one lets just say it gets done and keep it at that.

But all the rest is very simple to do not hard at all.

Rent a pump simple if you can find a place that rents them that is.

A system flush is not hard but you dont need it as long as you dont have the Black Death.

This is not hard to do you will need to buy one tool some unhooking rings at autozone or Oreilly auto $10 I think http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/LIS0/37000/N0044.oap?ck=Search_a%21s%21c+tools_N0044_-1_-1&keyword=a%21s%21c+tools&pt=N0044&ppt=C0052

 

im not worried about the whole recovering freon thing i have a way around that if ya know what i mean. i can get a vacuum pump at school. i already have the gauges, and i can get some cans of freon for 10$ at big lots. what is the ac fitting tool that i will need i saw harbor freight has some what size is ours?

oh and question once i get the compressor kicked on by tripping the switch i should get a new reading and that will give the true pressures? another thing is on the gauge set i was reading the 3rd outer ring of the gauge since it said r134a, but you guys are reading the middle of it?

got compressor to spin on with paperclip pressure is low which i suspect is due to a leak any ideas on where to start or just go ahead and replace all the o rings, accumulator, and orifice tube?



where is the orifice tube located inside the cab and how hard is it to remove?

 

Ok so a vacuum pump no problem

Gauge no problem even though I don’t like the set you have but yes you are looking for PSI on the gauge face it looks like that gauge set is for home A/C work to me.

Look back at #8 on this thread for the orifice tube location

On the ac fitting tool the one from Oreilly worked for me not sure the size's in the kit I used but they did the job just push the tool in hard to get the connector to pop loose what it does is expand the retaining spring that holds the connection together.

Yes your compressor needs to be engaged to get any readings and your RPM's need to be just a tad higher than idle but idle works your reading will be a tad low that’s all.

Your A/C needs to be on and fan on high and set to high cooling mode.

You may need to get rid of some Freon if the Low side is high like it looks to me to get the compressor moving not add any Freon but I’m not sure on those pic's you posted.

Just remember all this could be in vane if your compressor is bad you are wasting time and money.

 

OK I just saw the pic you added you could just add freon and see what happens then go from there.

 

If you fill up the Freon and it holds for a month or so it has a leak but not a bad leak but replacing the dryer the orifice tube and the O rings will hopfuly stop any leaks and give you better A/C

 

Charge the system, get a leak detector, and check all fittings. I wouldn't go about opening the system and replacing the receiver/dryer yet. As long as the system is closed you don't need to worry about it. Find the leak first.

It may hold for quite a while and work well. Same with the fixed orifice tube. Once it is running you can diagnose the system based on pressures.

Dak, he's low on freon. The pressures being equal (and the low appearing to read high) is normal when the compressor isn't running. That's why he had to jump the switch.

 

00DakDan

I agree with that when I finaly saw the new pic today he is just a tad low top off and go and you may be fine.

 

yes exactly dan

i could easily open the system because i have possession of the tools to fill up etc, the compressor is fine those reading of you thinking it was a bad compressor is false it was not on so i jumped it and the picture i posted are true readings.

if i were to evacuate the system and replace a line, would i need to re add oil to it after it is holding vacuum?

when vacuuming system will it pull out left over freon?

i see you have a picture but not a actual location of it?