Here we go..........

Guy at the Tranny place quite that inspected everything. I don't know if you have to tear it down to find everything, but the owner has now taken over my replacement parts. One big reason, the parts got shipped to the wrong address (didn't arrive Friday), so they're getting everything overnight freight to be sure they finish on Wednesday for me.

Owner found 3 items to point out and I ask for your input:

1. Pinion sleeve (?) has grooves he can't buff out. Suggest replacement part.
2. both axles have grooves he can't buff out. Suggests replacing.

Takes the total from the quoted $1,010 (which included O2 sensor replacement labor, see next paragraph), to a new total of $1,238.xx

I gave them the 4 O2 sensors to pay them to replace my old ones. Their normal price on labor would have been $169, which they were going to discount to $120 since I was having them do the rear end work (included in the $1,010 quote). She says they'll do that labor for free for the inconvenience of the delivery problem (not their fault, but they want me to feel good about adding cost).

The left side had seeping fluids for quite a while. I assumed the seal. They say the grooves "could" prevent a proper seal with the new hardware. Right side never showed sign of leaks. The pinion sleeve (or what ever she called it) makes me think it it is a must since it never was leaking.

Now for my challenge: The wife was not happy about the $1K quote that I told them to fix. I guess (ASSUME) the grooves could not be seen until they broke it down today. They're saying it is my option to have them replace the axles, they ordered the parts just in case I would want them to be sure they had them on hand.

The Challenge I put on you: Go with the extra $220 and take the beating from the wife, OR gamble the current axles will not cause a leak any time soon? Kind of feel I can answer the question now that I've typed it out. The $220 is low pain today if it's probable to leak and cost more to do in the future.

Appreciate your input by the morning!

Thanks,
Robb

 

It is a difficult situation. He's right in that a groove in the axle or pinion shaft can prevent the seal from doing it's job. In a case like this you're relying on experience. That of the person doing the rebuild as to how bad the wear is and how long it will last.

What rear end is it?

You might be able to find "speedi sleeves." They go over the shaft and give you a nice, clean, mating surface.

 

9.25 rear end

I do trust them... that's the problem. If I didn't trust them, I'd probably not have the added work done. Discounted one item to help me offset the added price on the "required" work. Hate to trust them, but this sound like it really has to happen.

I appreciate your input and added push to have it done the right way.

Robb

 

If the truck is paid for and you plan to keep it (I would) then the extra cost is not much at all to be sure the job is done right the first time. I think it is better to fix it completely the first time rather than just fix it so it might last for a while and then you are doing the same job over again in the not too distant future. Fix it once and fix it right and be done with it.

Jimmy

 

Agreed. fix it right.

 

A question did you get the diff oil changed at regular intervals just wondering why all the damage

 

Didn't want to see that question... to then have to fess up. I didn't do the intervals as I should have the first 100K miles I owned it. I've been much better since. I recently purchased a suction pump to evacuate the diff lube. Is there a zirk for the axles? ~I still have so much to learn~

Good directions again, Thanks ya'll!

Robb

 

I think it is a lot better to remove the cover and drain the old gear lube out that way. It also gives you a chance to inspect the gears and innards of the differential and you can use a shop rag to wipe out nearly 100% of the old fluid from the bottom of the pumpkin. You only have to remove about 10 or 12 bolts and you don't even have to jack up the truck for the job. I always remove my spare tire though to get more room to work. I change my differential lube every 12,000 miles and seal it the cover back up with the Permatex Gear Oil/Differential Sealant they sell at Napa.

Jimmy

 

You should pull the plate off to do it yes a pain but good to see if things are ok and clean it well. Did mine the first time last year before that had a shop do it.

 

Pulling the cover IS the only way to really do the job. Like 01 says, you get to inspect things.

There are no zirks on the axle. It's lubed via the gear oil in the differential.