Working on my 97 5.2 Dakota today. Replaced the thermostat and noticed what I thought was the water pump leaking but after I got the alternator and othjer stuff out of the way it turned out the leak was coming from the top of the timing chain cover. So OFF IT CAME. The passenger side of the timing chain has about 1/2" of slack in it Is that OK? The driver side is tight. PLEASE LMK ASAP before I start putting it back together. Thanks.
Also should I go ahead and put a new water pump on while it's off? AND how in the heck do you get the stupid clutch fan off the pump? I took it off as a unit just because I didn't want to waste any more time.

 

Can't help ya with the timing chain but when's the last time the waterpump was changed?

To get the fan off find 2 bolts that will fit in the waterpump pulley holes (there are 4) and wedge a big screwdriver or pry bar and hold it clockwise. Then get your typical knuckle buster wrench (adjustable wrench) and put it on the nut and get a hammer and smoke that puppy. The fan isn't reversed threaded so turn counter clockwise facing the fan (towards passenger side).

 

Thanks for the tip. The water pump looks like it's a fairly recent replacement, no play in the shaft and the impeller is clean.

 

Here's how to test, from the FSM:

MEASURING TIMING CHAIN STRETCH

(1) Place a scale next to the timing chain so that any movement of the chain may be measured.

(2) Place a torque wrench and socket over camshaft sprocket attaching bolt. Apply torque in the direction of crankshaft rotation to take up slack; 41N·m (30 ft. lbs.) torque with cylinder head installed or 20 N·m (15 ft. lbs.) torque with cylinder head removed. With a torque applied to the camshaft sprocket bolt, crankshaft should not be permitted to move. It may be necessary to block the crankshaft to prevent rotation.

(3) Hold a scale with dimensional reading even with the edge of a chain link. With cylinder heads installed, apply 14 N·m (30 ft. lbs.) torque in the reverse direction. With the cylinder heads removed, apply 20 N·m (15 ft. lbs.) torque in the reverse direction. Note the amount of chain movement.

(4) Install a new timing chain, if its movement exceeds 3.175 mm (1/8 inch).

 

If you have the cover off then it is not that hard to replace the chain and gears. You are half way there I'd just do it.

 

I agree with dolittle. You're there.

 

That's what I was thinking too. The motor has just shy of 150K, not a bad idea at all while everything is out of the way. Thank goodness I don't have A/C to mess with. Thanks guys.

 

So I lined up the cam gear and crank gear timing marks before removal, anything else I should do?
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A messy workshop is a sign of.................WHAT?
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Just go ahead and change it. It's easy with the 3.9, 5.2, and 5.9 as compared to the 4.7.

50 ft lbs on the camshaft bolt.