Jimmy- would the dash come on if the PCM stayed off? I would think not since the dash communicates to the PCM to display lights and readings, same if the ignition switch was bad, would the dash not come on at all?. Also, i would think if the neutral switch was bad, the fuel pump would still prime.

 

I don't know much about the neutral safety switch. I will not own or drive an automatic if I can help it. I did see in the Service Manual where Dodge calls the neutral safety switch a Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) and the book says the switch is located in the transmission near the valve body. That right there is enough to tell me if I suspected the TRS to be bad I would need to get a transmission shop to test it for me. The book does not mention the TRS making or breaking any connections with the fuel pump so while I don't know for sure I doubt the two are related. The TRS does communicate with the PCM but rather than guess at that I would get a tranny shop to check the transmission and Transmission Control Module.

The cluster is a computer on its own but it does communicate with the PCM and the rest of the truck's electronic modules via the PCI bus. If I had to guess i would guess OP's cluster is OK because the truck does run and start some of the time. I may be wrong but I don't think a bad cluster would prevent the engine from starting.

Anything is possible here but I still believe OP has an electrical and/or voltage problem somewhere. It also sounds to me like a physical problem like a bad connection, corroded power or ground wires/connectors or maybe it is a problem with one of the engine management sensors. Depending on mileage on the truck maybe the PCM is bad but seems there would be a code thrown if it were, or maybe a code reader would be unable to communicate with the PCM if the PCM was bad. Maybe OP can rule out the PCM if the key dance shows codes or shows P Done.

I am only guessing here. I am no Dodge mechanic, not by a long shot but I am guessing OP's problem is probably a simple fix. It will be a process until he finds the bad component, loose wire, corroded battery cable, or whatever the problem is. I could be wrong but it does not sound to me like it will be a huge major serious repair. The fact that the problem occurs more often when the truck is cold leads me to believe/guess this is a voltage-related problem.

Jimmy

 

Could this be SKIM? The Sentry Key Immobilizer? I'm not sure how it works but I'm wondering if it is related.

The cluster is a computer yes. If the fuel gauge works, showing the correct level, then the PCM is powered and on the PCI bus. Does that mean that the ignition is powered though?

The park/neutral switch (range sensor) is the ground for the starter relay circuit. It does give a reference to the PCM however. It should be a simple matter to just pull the harness at the transmission and ground the pin.

 

Dan I'm actually using the fuel pump as a focus here. The PCM has to be awake and alert to turn the fuel pump on to reach prime pressure.

Based on what you say, the PCM must be awake and alert for the fuel gauge to activate on the dash, irregardless of the ignition circuit.

The PCM must be awake and alert to fire the ignition and fuel injectors. It must also be awake and alert to trigger the starter solenoid.

The PCM is the only common factor to both the starter solenoid and the fuel pump that I know of.

That's the direction I'm coming from.

 

This is what I see but I'm looking at '01 schematics, don't have '03. The starter solenoid is not tied into the PCM.

Battery - fuse in PDC - ignition switch - fuse in JB - relay - clutch interlock jumper - range sensor. Between the clutch interlock jumper and the range sensor is the connection to the PCM. It goes "low" when in P or N. No such connection is shown on the M/T vehicles though.

 

I forgot to mention that the truck also has an aftermarket remote start that is 8-9 years old. I'm having that removed ask we speak. The battery is new, the cables are good. I load tested the starter, battery and alternator when it runs. All is good or better. I have run the shift up and down everytime and also hit the brake to disable the remote if for some reason it is active. When I get home from the morning of NO start, it starts right up. I have towwed it twice to a garage and the first time they said it started and the second time 2 no starts with the third it started. The odometer also shows "done" sometimes when I give the key a turn multipule times. again it seems like when it is cold and in the morning and like you are trying to start the truck when it is in drive or reverse. When it does start it is right away!

 

I have checked the battery cables. I replaced the battery. Load tested the old battery which was good but still replaced it. Removing the after market remote start. The garage has had it not start twice but then on the third try, bingo. Then again they don't try it till 8-9am in the morning. I'm trying at 4:30am.

 

The schematics I have end at run, run start, run acc etc. THIS IS FRUSTRATING!!!! i don't want to get rid of the truck. When runs it runs. It just is scary to get in every morning and pray that it turns over. I wish there was a way to by pass and hot wire it. I did put in a hot wire just for the starter to turn over, but that didn't do anything but let me turn it over. It won't catch. It's like I said that there is no spark and/or fuel. Please don't give up on me. Thank you!

 

So when you turn the key to "start" does it turn over but just won't fire or is it completely dead with no clicking starter or anything? If it is dead like that the first thing I would check is the ignition switch and its wiring harness. You may have a loose starter wire at the switch harness causing this problem. I don't remember the starter wire color exactly but I think it is black with a yellow stripe or solid yellow. Either way it will be the one that has been cut in two and then spliced back together since the remote start has been removed. Check that wire carefully and be sure it is intact and the splice is solid. I have seen that exact problem several times before.

Also the Haynes book has directions to test the ignition switch with a volt meter. Check it for intermittent operation on the start pole.

Jimmy

 

I am having the remote start system removed to eliminate that as a possible cause. some systems will not let you use the remote if the temp is too low. Maybe somehow it is taking over even when not in use. It is when I turn the key everything gives me the indication that it will start except for no fuel pump noise and no turn over. It's like someone stole the starter and the fuel pump. Turning the key will not dim the lights or drop down any other thing that matybe on like a blower. The dash lights are nice and bright. All lights come on and then some drop out when the key is turned to the starter crank mode as it would when it does start. Thank you so, so much for the continued help!