1998 Dakota: 4x4, 5.2L, 44RE.

Issue: No crank, only click
Solution: Replace starter, replace battery
Issue: No crank, only click with new starter and new battery
Battery voltage as of 15 minutes ago: 12.58v
-Terminal attached to starter stud is clean
-No antifreeze in oil, no oil in antifreeze, highly doubt the engine is locked, wouldn't start up after filling up at gas station.
-Tried switching starter relay with wiper relay, no difference
-Tried switching fuel pump relay, no difference

Where am I next with testing? I knew the starter was having troubles (occasionally just clicked, key off and back on a couple times and it would usually start at some point) and meant to replace it when I did headers, but I went and put in Long tubes and replacing the starter is harder than stick welding upside-down on a unicycle in a rainstorm during an earthquake.

I can get a PowerProbe, but I don't know where to go next with what to test in terms of electrical. Anyone have an experience with automotive electronics?

 

1. What's the battery voltage when you try to engage the starter - hear the click? No-load voltage on the battery is almost meaningless.

2. Measure the voltage at the starter when cranking.

3. Measure the voltage from the starter post to the positive battery post, again, when you try to start the truck. This will check for voltage drop on the cable.

4. If your power-probe can do it, measure the current draw when you crank the engine.

 

If the solenoid is clicking, you plain and simple don't have enough voltage. Check voltage at the battery with the key turned and again at the solenoid with key off and then cranking.

The starter will drag at 11.0 volts and click around 10.25 volts.

 

Thanks, I try all of those tomorrow as well as taking out the plugs and turning it over with a breaker bar.

I asked if I could get a power probe, doesn't look like it will happen but I can get a good multimeter which will do everything I need.

I will try these aswell.

When the first starter went out I tried with a set of jumpers, then again at home with a new battery which was freshly charged.

 

Dan tree'd me, as usual…with the same advise. :P

What Dan means by power probe, is a clamping ammeter. It lets you measure hundreds of amps without touching the wire.

 

I have seen a the battery cable cause not enough voltage to the starter. I use a head lamp bulb to test the power circuit as load tester. That Chrysler recommend for us to use. If the bulb stay bright, then the circuit is good.

 

wouldn't turning on the headlamps then cranking be a suitable process? Moreso if using a remote starting jumper across the solenoid?

 

Battery voltage key on: 12.17
Battery voltage when engaging starter: 11.70v (click only)
Voltage at starter positive terminal: 12.20v
Voltage at starter when attempting to crank: .865v
Voltage from starter to positive battery lead when engaging starter: .25v (though I'm not sure if I did this test right)

I also tried with a used battery that is known to be good, but not sure if it was fully charged, using jumper cables. Just clicked, so I disconnected and called it a day.

 

For the voltage to come down half a volt, assuming a .010 ohm circuit from battery to starter to ground, is 50 amps. The starter should draw on the order of 100's.

Where were you grounding the voltmeter when you were probing at the starter? Have you checked your grounds from the engine to the frame?

 

I was grounding the multimeter on the battery terminal connector.

I checked PCM to frame (frame right right below ABS), engine ground is the drivers side rear head to the cab right above the cruise control, correct?

What is the wire going to the alternator?