2nd Gen Dakota Tech 1997 - 2004 Dodge Dakota Tech - The ultimate forum for technical help on the 2nd Gen Dakota.

1998 5.2L no crank

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #11  
Old 04-09-2014, 09:54 PM
master tech's Avatar
master tech
master tech is offline
Site Moderator & Tech
Dodge Forum Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Near Sacramento,ca
Posts: 11,598
Likes: 0
Received 96 Likes on 81 Posts
Default

Sorry, What I meant was. I use a small halogen headlamp bulb and socket as a circuit tester. One wire is ground and the other is the hot lead. Chrysler training center had us make these to test wire circuit for bad wires. In other word, you can use a power probe to test the circuit as well as a test light. But how do you test a wire that may have a few good strands? The lamp will light bright is the circuit is good or not so bright and that lets you know the wire failed a load test.
 
  #12  
Old 04-09-2014, 10:00 PM
00DakDan's Avatar
00DakDan
00DakDan is offline
Section Moderator
Dodge Forum Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: MA
Posts: 4,830
Likes: 0
Received 37 Likes on 33 Posts
Default

Try this test again:


Put one test lead on the positive battery post. Put the other on the starter post (heavy cable). Read the voltage while you crank the engine. It just checks that one wire, nothing else.


If you show 11.7 volts at the battery when cranking you should still be showing almost that at the starter when cranking, not less than one volt.


The problem is the .25 volts you measured across the cable doesn't agree with what you're seeing when cranking. You should be reading about 10.8 volts on your meter, the difference between the 11.7 at the battery and the .865 volts you're measuring. Which looks like a bad cable.
 

Last edited by 00DakDan; 04-09-2014 at 10:03 PM.
  #13  
Old 04-09-2014, 10:09 PM
Xxaler's Avatar
Xxaler
Xxaler is offline
Professional
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Sutton, Ontario
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 00DakDan
Try this test again:


Put one test lead on the positive battery post. Put the other on the starter post (heavy cable). Read the voltage while you crank the engine. It just checks that one wire, nothing else.


If you show 11.7 volts at the battery when cranking you should still be showing almost that at the starter when cranking, not less than one volt.


The problem is the .25 volts you measured across the cable doesn't agree with what you're seeing when cranking. You should be reading about 10.8 volts on your meter, the difference between the 11.7 at the battery and the .865 volts you're measuring. Which looks like a bad cable.
I will try again tomorrow after work. I rolled the engine over a couple times by hand to make sure it wasn't seized.. I was getting worried... haha.

I really hope it is just that cable. This 4x4 truck currently has Spintech long tube headers installed and it's a nightmare wiggling around in there, 7-hours combined to remove/install the new starter.
 
  #14  
Old 04-14-2014, 07:09 PM
Xxaler's Avatar
Xxaler
Xxaler is offline
Professional
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Sutton, Ontario
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Alright. I didn't have a second hand to crank while I held leads, but I tried on advice of a friend to turn the key to the run position and jump the solenoid and starter terminals which should force the starter to run.

Sparked on the solenoid stud, and nothing on the starter power stud.

Next step, pull the power cable?
 



Quick Reply: 1998 5.2L no crank



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:18 PM.