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CODE P1389, '98 3.9l v6NO Spark, no start

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Old 07-18-2014, 06:03 PM
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Default CODE P1389, '98 3.9l v6NO Spark, no start

hello , My truck was running pretty well except for some intermittent high idle issues. I went to work for a month, came home, and no start. Cranks fine, but not start. Cam sensor checks out good, Crank sensor checked out bad. Replaced crank sensor today, no help. At first I thought it was no fuel, because I could not hear the pump running in the tank. So I swapped the relays around in the fuse box under the hood.
This code has to do with some sort of auto shutdown system, I guess related to the autoshutdown relay.
So this is a 1998 3.9Lv6 2wd Dakota sport with a manual transmission.
Still cranks, but no spark and no start. I have not checked the new CPS yet, but I guess you can never assume a new sensor is good. also I changes ECM's with a hopefully good spare still no help.

Also with the ignition on I don't get any voltage to the 12 volt side of the coil???? I thougt about jumping this to 12v, Sort of like or just like hotwiring a older car. Any suggestions on that???

and another question is what is this auto shutdown stuff all about. I sort of know that the cam sensor and the crank sensor Tell the ECM that the engine is in time , and a failure on one of those can cause no spark. but what does the autoshutdown system do??

thanks
 
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Old 07-18-2014, 06:17 PM
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P1389 is "No ASD relay voltage output at PCM."

The ASD relay kills the ignition and fuel if the engine isn't running for a certain period of time (as in seconds). Have you swapped the ASD relay out?

Double check the cam and crank sensors, make sure they aren't shorted.

It explains why you don't have 12 volts to the coil. NO on the jumping it. You'll probably just fry the PCM.
 
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Old 07-18-2014, 06:17 PM
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FIXED!!!!!!!!!!! It was the auto shut relay. I must have pulled it and replaced the same bad one back. they are all the same.
 
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Old 07-18-2014, 06:42 PM
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Now I just need some of the little plastic rivets that hold the fender liner in place.
It is kind of funny. the first thing I did was swap the fuel pump relay, then I swapped the ASD relay. but I just must have got mixed up in the switch, and not got the correct relay, or some such.
Now for the big question. if the ASD relay was bad all along, did I waste my money on the Crank position sensor. I did check the crank sensor, and it tested bad, but would the ASD relay make the crank sensor appear bad or test bad?????
 
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Old 07-18-2014, 07:42 PM
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It shouldn't have made the crank position sensor "look" failed.

How did you test it?
 
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Old 07-18-2014, 09:09 PM
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I made the tests when the truck was failed. first test on crank sender, sender disconnected, chassis side connector pin 3+ , pin2 neg ign on 5vdc constant. then connect the sender, penetrate pin 1 wire +, and neg to ground engine cranking I got nothing. on the cam sender, same test. sender disconnected pin 3+ to 2 neg 5 vdc constant with ign on. re-connect sender penetrate pin 1 with + meter lead, and meter neg to ground engine cranking I got 0 to 5vdc fluctuating while the engine was cranking
 
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Old 07-18-2014, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by dieselxj
Now I just need some of the little plastic rivets that hold the fender liner in place.
Harbor Freight. You can get a whole big box of assorted size plastic rivets for about $10.00, even less if it is on sale and you use one of the 20% or 25% off coupons from the Sunday paper, the HF web site or in a lot of car magazines. I bought a HF rivet tool and rivet set when I replaced my crank sensor and they worked great.

Jimmy
 
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Old 07-19-2014, 09:48 AM
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Could have been a coincidence with the sender. That's weird.
 
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Old 07-19-2014, 11:33 AM
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Well at least it is running for now. I just saw I need new upper control arm bushings.
I am almost finished with my second diesel conversion. I am pretty convinced that older diesels are the way to go. My newest one will be a little turbo direct injected Kubota.
But when all this Dakota problem was going on. I put a battery in my Mercedes Diesel powered jeep, and it started immediately. This jeep had been sitting for about a year completely untouched. The MB 300d that provided the engine for this jeep sat in a shed for over 16 years without running and when I went to load it , it started rite up as well. of coarse all the rubber stuff on the chassis was dry rotted , but it started and loaded on its own with 16+ year old diesel fuel. And the price was rite. I bought 2 running 300d's for $475. Then the engine sat in my shed for another 5 years before I put it in the Jeep.
Why not daily drive the MB jeep you ask? The problem with the MB jeep is that I put the good engine in a $100 POS Jeep body so I could learn to do the conversions., So it is not the most comfortable for daily driving, But it will run until judgment day
PCM/computer less is the way to go for me. I am hoping for close to 40mpg from my little Kubota, and this one is going in a much much nicer jeep with Power steering Aircon, and cruise control
If the Kubota can push the jeep well enough I might put another one in this Dakota. I have been driving the bouncy jeeps so long, I do like the Dakota's ride

Thanks for yalls help with the trouble shooting
 



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