hvac question
#11
If you can get it to come out of all the locations, at some point, the actuators themselves are OK.
It sounds like a control head issue. Basically, all you are doing when you select a function is applying a vacuum or venting. The control head is basically a multi-position valve.
Try a boneyard.
It sounds like a control head issue. Basically, all you are doing when you select a function is applying a vacuum or venting. The control head is basically a multi-position valve.
Try a boneyard.
I was out there messing around with it today and I removed the vacuum part and it didnt change, but if I moved the selcetion from say low to high on the blower, it would cause more air to blow but not change and this is while having the vacuum part off. I did pull on the cable for the blend door and I seem to have some what "fixed that"
I have a chance to get a replacement of this part in the dash, and if its the culprit I will grap it
#12
#13
Im starting to think the t-stat is bad, as the air is only luke warm when it is blowing at the highest setting before the air stops coming out all together.
I was manually moving the cable that controls the blend door and it I pushed it in all the way I lost all air (warm), I pull it back just a tad and it blows full on but just luke warm.
#14
Do you have a strong vacuum on the black hose? If you don't, that will cause problems to the mode doors. The black hose, where it connects to the control head.
On the thermostat, get one from a dealer or ONLY use a name brand like Stant.
There are lots of "bad" thermostats out there. Get one with the OEM temp. It should be 195.
On the thermostat, get one from a dealer or ONLY use a name brand like Stant.
There are lots of "bad" thermostats out there. Get one with the OEM temp. It should be 195.
#15
#16
With no vacuum from the black hose at the control head the mode doors won't work. Follow the line back.
The check valve, just the one, as in the picture I posted earlier allows air to flow towards the engine.
You can "bypass" the check valve for testing, the only thing is that the mode doors will change position as you accelerate/decelerate.
Can you post a picture of the tee that you referred to earlier?
The check valve, just the one, as in the picture I posted earlier allows air to flow towards the engine.
You can "bypass" the check valve for testing, the only thing is that the mode doors will change position as you accelerate/decelerate.
Can you post a picture of the tee that you referred to earlier?
#17
well Im going to bang my head against the wall.
I cut the black vaccum line to test it while I was waiting at the dr's, and that's how I found out there was no vacuum.
While driving home I was playing around with the controls and low and behold air started to come out of the center vent, I hit a bump and it went away.
I traced teh black line back and it was disconnected from a clip looking thing, so I re attached it and I am now getting vacuum to the control head.
Now this is the part that has me lost, I go thru all the different vents and it is still going to the defrost, but if I put it on anything but defrost you can hear lots of air under the foot area on the passenger side.
So I reached up there with my hand I iI' pushing the actuator that's under there and it seems the harder and farther I push it, the air flow slows down from coming from the area. Almost like there is a big leak.
So I'm thinking one of two things, When he installed the heater core he didn't put in the insulation around the new heater core or there is something wrong with the blend door. or the control cluster is bad?
but this still doesnt answer the question as to why the vents are inop even after getting vacuum to the black line
I cut the black vaccum line to test it while I was waiting at the dr's, and that's how I found out there was no vacuum.
While driving home I was playing around with the controls and low and behold air started to come out of the center vent, I hit a bump and it went away.
I traced teh black line back and it was disconnected from a clip looking thing, so I re attached it and I am now getting vacuum to the control head.
Now this is the part that has me lost, I go thru all the different vents and it is still going to the defrost, but if I put it on anything but defrost you can hear lots of air under the foot area on the passenger side.
So I reached up there with my hand I iI' pushing the actuator that's under there and it seems the harder and farther I push it, the air flow slows down from coming from the area. Almost like there is a big leak.
So I'm thinking one of two things, When he installed the heater core he didn't put in the insulation around the new heater core or there is something wrong with the blend door. or the control cluster is bad?
but this still doesnt answer the question as to why the vents are inop even after getting vacuum to the black line
#18
#19
#20
That's a DIY project I've put off 2 years now even with the second HVAC box I have. Its a PITA job and my A/C has been working good so it can wait I hope next winter I can get to it. I think my box has a bunch of leaves in it plus I have a few small problems that need fixing.
Sounds like you got screwed I hate shops cant trust them
Sounds like you got screwed I hate shops cant trust them