Hello, I have a 98 Dakota 3.9l 2WD with stalling and starting issues that have been a little taxing and has hit my final nerve with this truck. Whether it be from the start of the day or being ran most of the day it is still the same and then some days it doesn't do anything. It stalls right of the bat and backfires from time to time. If it has been running most of the day and it stalls out it takes forever to get it to restart again and the only way to ever get it to restart fast is to unplug the ECM connectors and wait about five minutes and then plug them back in and it will fire right up. I have replaced the crankshaft sensor, the plugs, plug wires, multiple distributor parts, the starter, the battery, the terminal post connectors, the valve cover gaskets because someone thought it could be an air leak causing the shutdown, the transmission has had work done on it and a new torque converter put in. I have readjusted the timing on it a couple of times but the problem still persists. Please if anybody could give me a hand with this I would greatly appreciate it.

 

Any codes pop up? It would help to narrow down the problem.

 

Sounds like it could be your PCM is going out that was some of the symptoms I had along with bucking hard starting poor performance and just weird behavior all around.


Every Dakota will need to replace the PCM at one point it just happens.

 

Just the code for the catalytic converter, that's exactly how mine is acting.

 

Well maybe your catalytic converter is plugged up can you remove it and see what happens is it easy to remove?

 

I have been told that before but it is not easy to remove, I have to cut it out and replace it

 

I had that issue with the PCM. I had to finally replace it with a used one I found on e-bay. I had no luck with the ones that are so called remanufactured. Get one out of a running truck if you can and from what I understand the letters at the end are really not important only the number is. For example mine was a 323AE, replaced with a used 323AB and it's fine. (Of course that converter has to be addressed first, make sure it's not clogged.) I would have someone rev the engine and you hold a rag over the tailpipe, you should feel ample pressure. The fact that you unplug the PCM and wait and then it starts, points to the PCM. Erroneous codes are also set by a bad PCM. Don't let anybody tell you a bad PCM will let you know it's bad with some 600 code, I found this to be false. If a computer is bad, it's bad and will be very misleading. Hope you find your problem.

 

What are the code numbers that you found? If you are able to access the top o2 sensor remove it and look inside.

 

One test for the cat is whack it a few times if you hear things banging around inside its bad.


So its welded on correct yea that makes it hard. They never used to weld exhaust pipes but its more common now.


I would first be sure its not your cat or other things before you get a PCM.


I had an OEM dealer PCM installed $1K but its worth it as it went bad in two months and they replaced it free under warrantee.


Some parts are better of from a Dealership even at the high prices.


My Dakota ran like the Devil was inside it very weird

 

You can cheat some.

Grab a tube of good anti-seize that'll work for O2s, then remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust (leaving it connected and tied up out of the way), and then see if it runs better.

If that helps, then it's a plugged exhaust system.

If you have a downstream O2, reinstall the upstream O2 using the antiseize on the threads, then remove the DOWNSTREAM O2 and see if it then goes back to being sick, or if it now runs better.

RwP