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2004 Dakota Engine removal

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Old May 19, 2015 | 08:11 PM
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Default 2004 Dakota Engine removal

I am removing my 3.7L engine from my Dakota. I am down to the point where I need to split the transmission from the engine. It is a 4WD so there's very little room.

Any pointers out there?
 
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Old May 19, 2015 | 08:12 PM
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To be a little clearer i have not removed the exhaust system (only unbolted from the engine) and i have not removed the 4WD drive shaft (loos like it might make a lot more room)
 
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Old May 21, 2015 | 01:33 PM
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Removed the wheel wells. Made a huge difference.. ready to pull the engine. Just need to separate the flywheel and torque converter. I'll post pics when i get it out.
 
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Old May 21, 2015 | 09:03 PM
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Looking forward to the pics Bogie.

Unfortunately we don't have many posts about the 3.7.
 
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Old May 23, 2015 | 02:07 PM
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Default New Engine (remanned)


Remanned engine from Jasper. I will spend the day cleaning all the parts that will go back onto this engine. Looks like I'll need to tap and die all the bolts and the engine. I tried a couple of the bolts and they're pretty tight. May be a mixture of paint in the hole and lock tight on the bolts.
 
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Old May 23, 2015 | 03:16 PM
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Wow nice lots of Pic's Please as I'm thinking of getting a used 2006 to 2010 3.7 or 4.7 Dakota in the next year or so. I built custom VW engines way back in the early 70's 80's so I love this stuff. Parts for the 2-nd gen are getting hard to find so a newer Dakota would be nice.


Please more Pic's more angles of everything.
 
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Old May 23, 2015 | 04:17 PM
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Get yourself a set of "thread chasers" and clean out the holes. That stuff they spray them with gets in the threads.
 
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Old May 23, 2015 | 04:55 PM
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Is there any way to check the CATs while I have the engine out. I remember running through a pretty deep water hole while the engine was hot and from then on I always got a bad O2 sensor on the passenger side. Is it a good idea to change them while I have good access?
 
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Old May 23, 2015 | 05:25 PM
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About all you can do is see if it rattles. Once the engine is up and running you could put a vacuum gauge on it and test for a restriction.

For the cost, I wouldn't just change them unless there was an obvious failure.
 
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Old May 23, 2015 | 07:40 PM
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Clean the bolt holes with either brake cleaner or WD40 use some Qtips and a can of air or if you have a compressor use the air nozzle.


Taping may damage the threads too much.


Is the block cast iron the pic looks like cast iron?
 
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