Ok I am new to this forum first off. Hello everyone.. Ok I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota, 2wheel drive, 5 speed, it has a 318 in it with aftetmarket cam headers ext from a Durango..(the 318)...ok now for my heater problem, I went to warm up my truck one day as I always do turned heat on went inside, came out the cab was full of smoke the heater wasn't working anymore. The blower motor locked up..I replaced it put it all together and no heat fan or anything. Replaced the resistor behind the dash near the firewall didn't do anything still.replaced the two HVAC fuses under the hood one was blown replaced the one on the side of the dash in fuse box.I still have no heat..the fan dosent come on turn or anything.. None of the speeds work, the air dosent work..I have nothing. As far as I can tell there are no burnt wires showing anywhere I traced all of them I could get to without complete removal of the dash I do have it out half way enough to see most of the wires...are there any more fuses anywhere or maybe something that I have missed?if I run an omnimeter on the plugs what should they read and where to check current flow ext...any help or advice would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance

 

Welcome to the forum Benjamin.

The 318 (5.2) was not available in 2000, '99 was the last year for it. It's either the 4.7 or the 5.9 liter that you have.

On the heater, power comes from the PDC, fuse 5 (40 amp) through the HVAC
relay to the motor, then through the switch and resistor to ground.

The relay is in the PDC.

Check for power at the motor.

 

[QUOTE=00DakDan;3281724]Welcome to the forum Benjamin.

The 318 (5.2) was not available in 2000, '99 was the last year for it. It's either the 4.7 or the 5.9 liter that you have.

On the heater, power comes from the PDC, fuse 5 (40 amp) through the HVAC
relay to the motor, then through the switch and resistor to ground.

The relay is in the PDC.

Yes you are correct the 318 is a built 318 custom job its not a factory application by any means...o and the truck is Bagged also...I was just giving information and general knowledge about my truck I know none of this information was relevant to the problem I am having but saw a post saying to disclose all information as possible about the vehicle... Ok the fuse in the PDC was the one that was blown I replaced, while I was there I replaced the other fuses including the one in the general fuse box inside the cab.so two under the hood one inside...I replaced the resistor, The blower motor also.the blower motor locked up so I know that caused all of my problems which at best guess is why the fuse under the hood was blown due to it locking up like it did.ok so how do I test the power to the diffent circuits? I have green wire (power) from blower motor black white (ground) from motor.the wires run to connector after that connector they run up into plastic track mounted to back of inside of the dash and I can tell where they run out at..I know that there is a wire somewhere from the switch power going to the blower motor but can't tell which one it is have any idea?...and the wires that I can see none of them are burnt In any way...that's why I went ahead and replaced the resistor blower motor and fuses but still not working... Where does the power come in to the switch at under the hood from fuse box to switch where at?and where does it transfer to the blower motor?...thanks for your timely response I am so frustrated with it at the moment, single dad life sucks, I need the heater working as soon as possible.

 

Well, depending on how much transition was done to get the 5.2 in ...

I'd grab the factory service manual so I'd have the wiring diagrams.

Thankfully, I have the affected pages handy, and will attach them to this W/O.

They include the gauge and color, and so should help with a test light as you trace the power to see where it does, or does not, go when it's supposed to.

RwP

 

Thanks Ralph.

Power comes right from the battery then to the relay. Check that relay! The motor is wired "hot", the ground side is switched. Pull the connector to the blower motor and check for power there.

 

Yes thank you so much Ralph, I couldn't download the PDF file tho I am getting on here via cell phone and it will not let me download the PDF to my phone but you have helped alot..00DakDan question if I pull the connection to the blower motor and turn my key to the on position I should get 12 volts to connectors correct?... And let's just say for argument sake couldn't I run power from battery to blower motor and leave the ground in place as it stands?thank you all for you help and support

 

You should have power to the blower motor - yes. From a ground, not the other connection at the blower, you should have 12 volts. The ground at the motor goes through the resistor so it may read lower if you use that.

If you run a wire from the battery then the blower won't shut off when you turn off the truck. You'll also need a heavy gauge wire due to the current draw.

 

I bet your resistor plug is bad. Unplug harness from resistor and look at connections at harness. You will have too get a new or used harness too splice in. They make a aftermarket plug too splice in . Make sure you splice in the same gauge of wire from the kit. I used a crimp tool too do mine. Very important to splice in same gauge wires as one on harness.