Did some hooning around today.

 

A tad late, but might be good to drop some multi-cleaner type stuff in the oil such as seafoam or gumout multi-system. Especially with older oil, I've had good experiences with cleaning the crankcase with it. Tossed it in my mother's Mazda B2200 that had been sitting up for about a year and it actually managed to pull globs of sludge out with the oil change (almost like tapioca pearls, just... solid black and the size of a dime). Put 1oz per quart (3.9L Magnum takes 4 quarts) about 100~200 miles before the oil change. It'll help pull some extra sludge out and clean the oil passages. Did my own dakota a couple months ago after changing the timing chain, with about 500 miles on the oil, it cleaned good enough to make the oil solid black with very few miles on it. Personally, I've been going route of the gumout multi-system. Every tank I run with it gets better mpg (statistically according to fuelly, every tank with gumout has been over 19mpg), haven't really had the same results with seafoam.

If the crankcase is already clean, it's safe to put in and leave in as a conditioner. Although I haven't done this, too greedy, the rest I want to toss in the gas tank after an oil change to help keep my fuel system top shape. Also, when are we going to get a video of you doing burnouts/donuts in a parkinglot?

 

yea, i need to put something in it then get it nice and hot and drain it. Not sure if I should go back to 10-40 or go to 20-50 given the mileage.

After those launches, I tried to do a power slide. Just not enough power to keep them broken loose. Same with a rolling burnout.

 

Keep it at 10-40, the 20-50 might be too thick and cause the seals or valve cover gasket to give out... You can guess how I know this. Just make sure to put a good brand of high-mileage oil in it. Personally, I run mobil 1 10w-40 high mileage (however, it's 10w-30 atm for the winter). I need to try out this full synthetic people keep raving about, just been using synthetic blend. But yeah, definitely toss 4oz of either seafoam or gumout in the crankcase 100 or so miles before the oil change, especially with how old you say the oil is.

 

Some more hooning this week.

Went to the track yesterday. Torque converter is kinda goofy. The dash tach is 200 behind actual. I wanted to datalog and play in the MSD, but my laptop was being a female dog. Had to reinstall windows on it last night.

The converter stalls around 3,000 RPM on the brake and flashes to 3500 on the launch. The V6 is spec’d at 175 HP in stock emissions trim, mine might be closer to 200 as-is.

64 MPH = 715 Axle RPM * 4.10 = 2932 driveshaft RPM @ 4000 engine RPM = 26.7% slip 1/8 mile
71 MPH = 793 Axle RPM * 4.10 = 3252 driveshaft RPM @ 4150 engine RPM = 21.6% slip 1000 foot
78 MPH = 871 Axle RPM * 4.10 = 3571 driveshaft RPM @ 4300 engine RPM = 10.7% slip 1/4 mile

 

Got the timing cover notched for the ATI balancer. Had to take off way more than I expected. Made a filler plate for the backside, now just have to find somebody willing to weld on cast aluminum.

 

What's the plate over the pump area for?

 

remote mounted water pump. Eventually I'll have an AN bung or two welded into the plate.

 

Is the plate thick enough you could just thread them in? Or put a nut on the back side?

I haven't found anyone around here that can weld aluminum worth beans..... I am thinkin' Fort Worth is just a tad bigger than Adrian though. (by a factor of around 5 or so.......)

 

Not sure I understand the question?