Dakota Suspension Lift
#1
Dakota Suspension Lift
I picked up a beater 1996 Dodge Dakota for $400 bucks a month ago. Had a V8 and 4WD so was a nice deal. Only real issue was the fuel line leaked and steering is sloppy. Well fixed the fuel line, and believe pitman arm is the steering issue. Unfortunately the previous owner didn’t know the radiator leaked, so now I’ve got a blown head gasket. I picked up the truck because I want mechanical experience and working on an older vehicle is a great way to learn! I’m going to attempt the head gasket soon, iv got the Haynes Manuel and access to any tools I will need. Going to be a big project for someone who hasn’t really worked on an engine at all before but that’s how we learn!
Anyways, since I only paid $400 for it I figure I can throw some money at it to improve it (besides the repairs needed). My idea for this truck is to be a “Winter Warrior” since I live in Northeast Wisconsin. The 4WD and v8 should be really nice for winter. But my other goal is to be able to reliably be able to drive through fairly deep water. My city floods extremely bad a few times a year, I was walking two blocks barefoot through knee deep water yesterday to get to my house. Because my every day vehicle is a G6. I’m about 5’ 9”, so I’m not terrible short by any means. I’d say it was about a foot and a half of water.
I have no idea how much water a dodge Dakota can get through as is. But that seems to be pushing it. It has very good clearance above the tires, not sure if that’s stock. But I believe a suspension lift would be the way to go for me to achieve more clearance. I found a suspension lift of 1-3” and would like some thoughts on it considering I’ve never done anything close to lifting a truck. But I want to do the work myself for experience. Link will be below.
Also, anyone know how deep of water a 1996 Dakota 4X4 SLT can get through stock? And any other upgrades I could make to help get through water? It’s missing the wheel wells, is that going to be important to get?
Thanks for any advice!!
Link:
https://supremesuspensions.com/produ...=1916418064394
Anyways, since I only paid $400 for it I figure I can throw some money at it to improve it (besides the repairs needed). My idea for this truck is to be a “Winter Warrior” since I live in Northeast Wisconsin. The 4WD and v8 should be really nice for winter. But my other goal is to be able to reliably be able to drive through fairly deep water. My city floods extremely bad a few times a year, I was walking two blocks barefoot through knee deep water yesterday to get to my house. Because my every day vehicle is a G6. I’m about 5’ 9”, so I’m not terrible short by any means. I’d say it was about a foot and a half of water.
I have no idea how much water a dodge Dakota can get through as is. But that seems to be pushing it. It has very good clearance above the tires, not sure if that’s stock. But I believe a suspension lift would be the way to go for me to achieve more clearance. I found a suspension lift of 1-3” and would like some thoughts on it considering I’ve never done anything close to lifting a truck. But I want to do the work myself for experience. Link will be below.
Also, anyone know how deep of water a 1996 Dakota 4X4 SLT can get through stock? And any other upgrades I could make to help get through water? It’s missing the wheel wells, is that going to be important to get?
Thanks for any advice!!
Link:
https://supremesuspensions.com/produ...=1916418064394
#2
#3
Good to know! That’s more than a I was expecting. It’s really rusty underneath so it’s a bit hard to tell what’s still good and what might need replacing, anything in particular to look for on any of those components you meantioned!
Also, any comments on the suspension lift I linked? Not sure what would be telltale signs of a good kit vs bad one for a beginner to install.
#4
Try cranking your stock torsion bars first you can only go until the a-arms are just touching the bump stops or you will have a very rough ride, the torsion keys allow you to crank the bars more but if it is already cranked up enough with the stock keys you can't go any further. You can add a 1.5" or 2" block in the rear to lift it.
#5
Try cranking your stock torsion bars first you can only go until the a-arms are just touching the bump stops or you will have a very rough ride, the torsion keys allow you to crank the bars more but if it is already cranked up enough with the stock keys you can't go any further. You can add a 1.5" or 2" block in the rear to lift it.
To to be clear, your saying a 1.5-2” body lift can be achieve with the stock torsion bar?
#6
#7
The blocks are to put more space between the rear axle, and the springs. NOT a body lift. (assuming spring-over-axle) So, blocks in the back, crank the torsion bars a bit in the front, and you can get an inch or two of lift. Enough to bump a size or two on your tires. (which will give you even more clearance. )
Unfortunately, I don't think anyone sells lift kits for the 1st gen Dakotas any more.....
Unfortunately, I don't think anyone sells lift kits for the 1st gen Dakotas any more.....
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