Drivers side Valve Cover Removal....
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Drivers side Valve Cover Removal....
Newbie to the forum and not a full fledged mechanic so please be kind! I have to replace my drivers side valve cover gasket and I hit a snag. I figured out that I have no clearance between the booster and valve cover. Do I have to completely remove the 4 booster bolts (or do they have to be extremely loose) to gain the proper clearance? Also is there anything else that needs to be loosened or removed? One thing that I have learned from this endeavor is that the Chilton's manual sucks!!!!!! Thanks for any and all advice!!!!
Brian
Sorry I was defeated and tired when I posted this. 04 Dakota/2 WD/4.7 L V8
Brian
Sorry I was defeated and tired when I posted this. 04 Dakota/2 WD/4.7 L V8
Last edited by Bahume; May 5, 2019 at 09:36 AM.
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From: Clayton MI
Yeah, the Chiltons/Haynes manuals are pretty generic, and therefore, useless. 
Having a factory service manual is pretty much a requirement. There *might* be some for download around here somewhere. (just not sure, check the faq/diy section.)
What year is your truck, and what engine?
Having a factory service manual is pretty much a requirement. There *might* be some for download around here somewhere. (just not sure, check the faq/diy section.)What year is your truck, and what engine?
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Sorry, I thought I had the truck
engine info posted. I have an 04 Dakota with 4.7 Liter, 2WD. I tried searching the forum and FAQ' but too many posts and me being tired i finally gave up. Thanks!
engine info posted. I have an 04 Dakota with 4.7 Liter, 2WD. I tried searching the forum and FAQ' but too many posts and me being tired i finally gave up. Thanks!
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Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Atlanta
From my valve cover gaskets thread in the Durango section:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ml#post3434826
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ml#post3434826
I replaced valve cover gaskets on two different 4.7l engines and it's not as bad as it looks during the initial inspection once the little things like wiring start moving out of the way.
I would suggest getting a tiny pick with a "J" shape point to disconnect the injector plugs from underneath where the actual tab snaps onto the injector. Hopefully that made sense, you'll understand when the stupid brittle red releases all break off. The pick will save your day if your truck was like mine.
Also, use bunjee cords to hold all the wiring up and away from the gaskets so you don't have to fight them. And LOOSEN THE BRAKE BOOSTER otherwise you'll want to kill yourself trying to do the driver side. There's 4 bolts by the brake pedal you take off and then the brake booster can be pushed out and wiggled around to give you the required room.
Also, I didn't have to disconnect the fuel line on mine. Just removed the safety tab thing and had room. But it sure wouldn't hurt to remove the line if you really want to.
I would suggest getting a tiny pick with a "J" shape point to disconnect the injector plugs from underneath where the actual tab snaps onto the injector. Hopefully that made sense, you'll understand when the stupid brittle red releases all break off. The pick will save your day if your truck was like mine.
Also, use bunjee cords to hold all the wiring up and away from the gaskets so you don't have to fight them. And LOOSEN THE BRAKE BOOSTER otherwise you'll want to kill yourself trying to do the driver side. There's 4 bolts by the brake pedal you take off and then the brake booster can be pushed out and wiggled around to give you the required room.
Also, I didn't have to disconnect the fuel line on mine. Just removed the safety tab thing and had room. But it sure wouldn't hurt to remove the line if you really want to.
Last edited by Dodgevity; May 6, 2019 at 10:39 AM.
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Champion
Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Atlanta
As smooth as can be...they're still in the box on the garage floor. Life interrupted in the form of a flooded basement. Gonna be installing flooring this weekend.
Life interrupted in the form of a flooded basement. Gonna be installing flooring this weekend.