Then you need to find out why you are getting power to the sensor. Should be 5 volt feed from the PCM. Since you replaced the PCM, I would lean toward a wiring issue.

 

When I connect a test light to the tan and black wire on the sensor connector there if NO POWER.. If I connect the ground wire on the test light to the blue and black wire on the connector and touch the test wire pointer to a positive wire by the battery it lights up telling me the blue and black wire has a good ground to it.

 

Should be a five volt circuit, that won't necessarily light up your test light. The circuit goes back to the PCM, which sends it to ground, PCM is interested in the voltage coming back.... which should be less than 5 volts. Feeding it 12 might just smoke the circuit.

Need a volt meter to test for voltage there....

 

I would like to know if I can run a jumper wire from the intake air temperature sensor to the tan and black wire to see if that gets rid of the code and the temperature gauge works, the ECT is new but I just ordered another one and a connector and pigtail for it.

 

If you can, probe the wires, makes sure you are getting power TO the sensor, and there is something coming out. VOM is gonna be a requirement. Just a cheap one will do.

 

Today I'm getting a low priced volt meter from Harbour Freight, I also ordered a new ECT sensor and connector with pigtail, meanwhile I'm going to test the voltage on the tan/black wire and the blue/black wire since the original ECT connector came off from those, I can re attach the old connector, but I'm going to wait and connect the new connecter, hopefully one is getting 0.5 and the other one 0.0. The tag expires in less that 2 weeks and I can't renew it until I can get rid of that pesky check engine light from the code P0118, it won't pass inspection with the check engine light on and they won't renew the tag unless it passes inspection.