ok...according to the repair manual about continuity...
ignition switch plug:
_______________________
| - - - - - - - |
1 - 7

1) Yellow (starter)
2) Blue
3) Unknown (saw no wire comin out)
4) Pink/Black (hot)
5) Black/Orange
6) Black/White
7) Red (hot)

Switch Position | Continuity Between
Start | 3 and Ground
| 1 and 7
| 2 and 7
Run | 4 and 5
| 2 and 7
| 6 and 7
Accessory | 6 and 7


Soooo....I have to figure out what's goin on with number 3...maybe that's what's screwin me over.

Would 5 and 6 both be accessory then?

 

The wire was right there in the ignition harness with all the other wires. Plain as day. And no, 5 (Black/Orange) is Second Ignition. 6 (Black/White) is accessory. You've def gotta figure out what's with pin 3 because that is your ticket wire i bet. And I bet it's gonna be blue/yellow.

 

yea I have one prob after another. I need a T15 torx to open up the cover, but the stuff i had wld not fit the deep hole where 2 of the 4 screws are located. So I go to autozone to get an actual screwdriver. I get teh cover off and such. I get to the removal of the ignition switch, and guess what...It's tamper-proof. So now I need to go back to autozone. But anyway..even if I do find this 3rd wire...how am supposed to get it to connect to ground? The module only has +12 wires connecting to it. The only thing grounded on teh module is from the wire harness where all the extra wires are connected such as parking lights and stuff.

By the way...is green/red the wire responsible for keepin the check engine light off? I noticed a green/red and yellow/white wire connecting on the left of the switch, and on the right I noticed a Light Blue and a Black wire connected. When I disconnect teh green/red and yellow/white, and started up the engine, I got a check engine light. When I dosconnected the other and started up, I noticed that all the gears in the digital reading were all boxed.

 

If you had to use a torx to get the dash off, i think you got a 2001 man. Not a 2000. Up to 2000 you only need a phillips or a 7mm, and there are only 3 screws along the bottom of the dash and the cover pops off. They changed the dash in 2001 to the boxy dash with torx bits to hold it on. Check the sticker under the hood and make sure of the model year. I bet it's a 2001! In that case you would ahve the right wire (Yellow) and that would explain why you can't find a blue wire. Because you shoudl not have to go all the way up to the ignition switch, the wire would be right there in the harness.

And that would also explain why Black/Orange is acc, instead of black/white, because that also changed in 01. But yes the green/red wire must be hooked up or it will cause funky things.

I'll bet you have a 2001!! If so here's the wiring for it.

Constant 12V - Pink/black or Red
Starter - Yellow
Ignition - Blue
Second Ignition - Green/Red
Accessory - Black/Orange
Second Acc - Green

 

Nah it says 2000 under the hood and on the door.

Green/Red cannot be ignition since I disconnected it off teh switch and the engine still started.

idk, dude it must be 2000. If there's another possibility it has 2001 parts in, I'm gonna go crazy.

 

Just because it ran doesnt mean anything. It ran because the Blue ignition wire is running all the esentials for the engine to run, but the second ignition/third ignition wires typically run other functions. For example, on a cadillac, if you don't power up the second ignition, the car will run just fine, but you will get a check engine light, because something, somewhere isn't getting power. On your truck, if you don't power that wire up with remotestart,the truck will not shift when driving. Even after youput the key in. Trust me, it's an ignition wire. I think you have some crossover year or something because if you have the boxy dash, the wiring changed also.

 

12 VOLT CONSTANT
PINK/BLACK (+) and RED/LIGHT BLUE (+)
IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS


STARTER
YELLOW (+) 16 Gauge
IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS


STARTER 2
N/A



IGNITION 1
DARK BLUE (+) 16 Gauge
IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS


IGNITION 2
DARK GREEN/RED (+) 18 Gauge
IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS


IGNITION 3
RED/WHITE (+) See NOTE *6 Requires Relay part # 775
IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
26500_DAKOTA_775 for IGNITION 3 Output II.pdf

ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1
BLACK/ORANGE (+)
IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS


ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2
DARK GREEN (+)

IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

NOTE *6 the IGNITION #3 wire must be isolated using a Relay Part #775 to prevent the CHECK ENGINE light from turning on during Remote Starting. See DIAGRAM


well..I'll check those wires out with the test probe when I get home then...and autozone didn't have the torx tamper-proof screwdriver..they suck.

 

Ok leme get this strait, you hadnt taken the front cover off at all, the screwdriver you need has a pin in the middle, go to a hardware store they have them, or o, rileys... ull have a hell of a easy time i didnt know ya hadnt taken it off...

 

yea, so now I'm starting to think the unit is bad. I had it all hooked up and then i disconnected the harness from the ignition switch, and I probed the starter wire as I pressed the start button on the remote. The result was negative. There was no +12V goin to the starter wire. I don't know what else to do..ther aren't anymore wires goin to the switch...

 

ok..new info. I deicded to forget about the unit for a bit, and try hot wiring. So...I hooked ign 1 and 2 to a +12V constant, and then i hooked teh starter to another +12V. It..cranked!! but..no firing..since my engine is 4.7L and has no distibutor..so..how do I get the plugs to fire?


k nvm i figured it out. I got the **** to work via hotwire....so I guess this unit is dead... I forgot to lpug the green/red and yellow/white wired harness back into where it's supposed to be by teh ingnition switch. The circuit was not complete for the green/red wire therefore the plugs didnt fire.

So final wire setup...

Yellow is the Starter
Red and Pink/Black wires are +12V constant
Black/Orange and Black/White wires are accessory
Blue is Ignition #1
Green/Red is Ignition #2