2.0L engines
#21
06-05-2009, 06:37 PM
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I totally agree with you I was just wondering about the pistons. I do know how to tune, I was just wondering for my friend. He wants to get the DOHC set up on his car. I am leaving the research up to him to find out, Ill help but if he wants to start modding he has to do the work. Course he needs to get the money first to start lol. I personally do my research before I start to do anything, see what works and what doesn't.
#22
06-05-2009, 06:51 PM
I know you are all going to hate me, but for 10K, if you just want to go fast in a Neon, why not get an SRT-4? You can buy a used SRT-4 for less then 10k now. That seems better to me when they run 13.8-14.2 stock. I read one post, a 13.6 with a fully built motor?? That seems like a lot of money and work to break into 13's.
Is it that you all want to stay N/A? Or is that you just don't like SRT-4's? I really want to know.
Again, I am not trying to make anyone mad, it is just my thoughts. I still want to see a full 2.0 build. I am all about being different. I built a twin turbo manifold for my car and sold it before I ever put it on.
Please educate me.
Is it that you all want to stay N/A? Or is that you just don't like SRT-4's? I really want to know.
Again, I am not trying to make anyone mad, it is just my thoughts. I still want to see a full 2.0 build. I am all about being different. I built a twin turbo manifold for my car and sold it before I ever put it on.
Please educate me.
#23
06-05-2009, 10:21 PM
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1. Building a fast 2.0L does not cost $10k. That is beyond ridiculous.
2. The srt engine and trans can be had for about $2k. Modding should begine with a better i/c, mbc, replace that turbo manifold and get a larger turbo. Far less than a 7k car. Takes know how. Best to use a larger ic, and turbo than neded as not to burn out your car.
2. The srt engine and trans can be had for about $2k. Modding should begine with a better i/c, mbc, replace that turbo manifold and get a larger turbo. Far less than a 7k car. Takes know how. Best to use a larger ic, and turbo than neded as not to burn out your car.
#24
06-05-2009, 10:25 PM
1. Building a fast 2.0L does not cost $10k. That is beyond ridiculous.
2. The srt engine and trans can be had for about $2k. Modding should begine with a better i/c, mbc, replace that turbo manifold and get a larger turbo. Far less than a 7k car. Takes know how. Best to use a larger ic, and turbo than neded as not to burn out your car.
2. The srt engine and trans can be had for about $2k. Modding should begine with a better i/c, mbc, replace that turbo manifold and get a larger turbo. Far less than a 7k car. Takes know how. Best to use a larger ic, and turbo than neded as not to burn out your car.
2.1. An SRT engine and trans can be had for less than that...if you know where to look.
I am actually thinking about putting a 2.4L in my '71 Dart with either a GT30R or a GT35R.
#25
06-05-2009, 11:43 PM
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That sounds interesting, your gonna get alot of looks with that. Hope your gonna build the bottom end up better to handle the 30 or 35, remove the balance shafts and get a strap kit from DCR, either that or just get a short block from them if you have that kind of money. What trans you gonna run 5-6 speed? you'll have plenty of room to fit what ever turbo you want plus have room to work on it lol
#26
06-06-2009, 11:42 AM
That sounds interesting, your gonna get alot of looks with that. Hope your gonna build the bottom end up better to handle the 30 or 35, remove the balance shafts and get a strap kit from DCR, either that or just get a short block from them if you have that kind of money. What trans you gonna run 5-6 speed? you'll have plenty of room to fit what ever turbo you want plus have room to work on it lol
I am still looking around, but McLeod makes a bellhousing to adapt almost any engine to almost any manual transmission. The T-56 is very nice, but costs 3000$. A used T-5 (Cough - from a Ford Mustang - Cough) is much cheaper and opens up a world of clutch options.
The idea of one of these motors in a rear drive application really makes me wonder. A Dart weighs in around 3100 LBS. I also have the ability to use almost any manual I want and a large selection of gears for the rear axle.
#27
06-06-2009, 02:58 PM
Stock 2.4L with shafts removed is good for 400HP. I am going to lightly build the motor, rods, pistons, ported/valved head. and add DCR's oil kit. It is not going to be a race car and I am not going to beat it.
I am still looking around, but McLeod makes a bellhousing to adapt almost any engine to almost any manual transmission. The T-56 is very nice, but costs 3000$. A used T-5 (Cough - from a Ford Mustang - Cough) is much cheaper and opens up a world of clutch options.
The idea of one of these motors in a rear drive application really makes me wonder. A Dart weighs in around 3100 LBS. I also have the ability to use almost any manual I want and a large selection of gears for the rear axle.
I am still looking around, but McLeod makes a bellhousing to adapt almost any engine to almost any manual transmission. The T-56 is very nice, but costs 3000$. A used T-5 (Cough - from a Ford Mustang - Cough) is much cheaper and opens up a world of clutch options.
The idea of one of these motors in a rear drive application really makes me wonder. A Dart weighs in around 3100 LBS. I also have the ability to use almost any manual I want and a large selection of gears for the rear axle.
#28
06-06-2009, 02:59 PM
#29
06-06-2009, 03:05 PM
#30
06-06-2009, 03:06 PM
actually here, i found it...
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f11...onversion.html
Greg very nice article. Chetcpo I am trying to do the same thing.
I am building a 33 Dodge pickup street rod and would like to put a turbo 2.4 in it. I do have a 2.4 out of a Jeep wrangler and I bought a NV1500 bellhousing from the dealer for $48!!!!. I also have the Jeep 2.4 flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. I was thinking of building an adapter plate to mount a Ford Mustang bellhousing and T-5. Using a 2.3 turbo mustang clutch (also 9" like the jeep flywheel and pressure plate) Now I am considering looking closely at the Toyota R154 if I can get around the input shaft length prob. I can provide the Jeep flywheel info if anyone could use it. Again Greg you provided info I have been searching for. Thanks!
Baddeeds
------------------------------------------------
Hi Badeeds,
Well, I suppose you'll be a pioneer on this swap. If push comes to shove, I suppose you could find a 2WD version of the NV1500 and go with that. Of course, you probably won't... :-)
In that case, the magic number is 6.65". If you assemble the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and bellhousing together on the back of the block, hook a tape measure onto the front edge of the clutch disk hub (the side closest to the block) and measure to the tranny side of the bellhousing, you'll need to see at LEAST 6.65". Less is OK, more is not OK.
This way, you can guarantee you'll have full spline engagement. That mesurement should also tell you how much you may need to shave off the front of the bell. From looking at the bellhousing I have, I think you can get away with milling about 1/2" off of the front. If you know what alternator spacers look like, you can probably weld some of those over the bolt holes to help brace it up. Those are my ideas anyway.
Greg
-------------------------------------------------------
Thanks Greg, more good info. I did some simple measuring not exact yet because I do not have the tin spacer plate that goes between the engine and the bell housing. I also do not have the flywheel to engine bolts.
I hung the flywheel off the crank so that it sat flush to the crank and bolted up the bell. From the bell to the transmission surface area, and too the machined flywheel clutch surface is about 6 3/16" I assume the tin plate will add another 1/16" So it should be around 6 1/4".
Now the Jeep clutch disk spline surface is about 1" long and about 3/16" of the splines would be inset ahead of the flywheel machined surface. I guess I need to get a Supra clutch disk (correct R154 spline disk) and measure from the bell to the end of the clutch spline.
Hopefully I can get all this bolted up correctly and remeasure by the end of the week. I ordered the tin plate and the flywheel bolts from the dealer today.
I think this might all work out, I hope so because it would be a neat setup. Do you have a R154 transmission your measuring from? If this works out, where would a good place to get a R154 core or good trans? Im in Dallas and there is alot of good salvage yards.
Brian
-------------------------------------------------------------
Hi Brian,
Yes indeed I DO have the R154 that I'm measuring from. From the measurements you're giving me, it sounds like it just might work as is! Of course, you'll have to fab up your own pilot bushing. Also, what is the OD of your clutch disk? A gent from the Isuzu forum, Chris Pomeroy has figured out that the Toyota 3.0L V6 clutch disk is 9 3/8" (It will fit the R154 spines). He's mounting a Toyota R150F behind a Buick 3800 using a Dodge Dakota bellhousing.
Greg
--------------------------------------------
Hey greg, the jeep disk is 9". At Clutchnet Manufacturing Corp. The largest clutch selection in the world they list alot of toyota disk with the correct spline. There is some toyota disk that are under and over the 9" size. I think they also can build a 9" disk with the needed spline count. I hope to have some good measurement later in the week. Brian
------------------------------------------------------
Greg I still dont have the flywheel bolts, but I did find a R154 today. I got the trans ,shifter and the old clutch disk for $150. I thought that whas pretty good!. Well I bolted up my Jeep NV1500 bellhousing and slid the Toyota disk onto the splines. Giving alittle room for clutch wear, flywheel turning ect the disk surface is 2.74 from the bellhousing to block surface. Measuring the block mounting surface to the clutch surface on the flywheel I got a shade over 2.50". So anyway the bell will need to milled at least 0.25". I not going to crank up my mill until I get the rest of the parts and a flywheel that will be used. Stay tuned for final measurements ect. I will take pics, notes, and post them to add to your post. brian
----------------------------------------------------------
Watch out for the starter. Make sure you've got enough clearance after you mill. Oh, what is the distance from the front edge of the clutch hub to the back edge of the bellhousing.
Couple of other things. You'll probably need a 93 and later Jeep or Dakota front bearing retainer. It will make things a lot easier when it comes to hooking up the throwout bearing. Do you have a clutch arm and slave cylinder yet?
Greg
--------------------------------------------------
I checked the starter, it looks like it will be ok. I did not measure the starter clearance, but it has more than 1/4" between the starter nose and bellhousing.
I dont have the clutch arm or slave cylinder. "the distance from the front edge of the clutch hub to the back edge of the bellhousing" I'll check.
What type of bearing do you recomend? I do have a lathe if any spacers or such is needed. Brian
-----------------------------------------
I'm a big fan of stock components. Cheap and easy to pickup in case of failure. I only suggest using the Jeep\Dakota front bearing cover so you can put it back together with the stock Jeep\dakota throwout bearing and clutch arm. But... if you've got a lathe......
Greg
-----------------------------------------------------
Hey Greg, I got the rest of my components. I did some quick measurements w/digital calipers. The distance between the front edge of clutch disk hub to the back of the bell housing is about 6.72. Thats a hard measurement is difficult to measure. I will get a better measurment after taking it back apart. I do have good measurement from the back of clutch hub to bell. I will add the clutch hub thickness.
I think I would feel comfortable taking 0.375 off the bell. This would give me plenty of spline ingagement. This also would give me about 1/4" clearance between the clutch hub and bearing retainer (AX15 bearing retainer). I took your advice on the longer bearing retainer. No way would the short stock R154 retainer would work. I did get a cluch arm and bearing which is common jeep stuff.
Might need some advice on one thing. I am thinking of milling 0.250" off the front of the bell and 0.125 off the back. This way I would preserve the counter bore for the dowel locaters. Is this a good or bad idea? Later, Brian
-------------------------------------------------------
Man, if you're getting 6.72" from the front of the hub to the back of the bell, I'd say just mill .20" off of the front and call it a day! I don't think you'd weaken anything that way. That's a good starting point.
Greg
I am building a 33 Dodge pickup street rod and would like to put a turbo 2.4 in it. I do have a 2.4 out of a Jeep wrangler and I bought a NV1500 bellhousing from the dealer for $48!!!!. I also have the Jeep 2.4 flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. I was thinking of building an adapter plate to mount a Ford Mustang bellhousing and T-5. Using a 2.3 turbo mustang clutch (also 9" like the jeep flywheel and pressure plate) Now I am considering looking closely at the Toyota R154 if I can get around the input shaft length prob. I can provide the Jeep flywheel info if anyone could use it. Again Greg you provided info I have been searching for. Thanks!
Baddeeds
------------------------------------------------
Hi Badeeds,
Well, I suppose you'll be a pioneer on this swap. If push comes to shove, I suppose you could find a 2WD version of the NV1500 and go with that. Of course, you probably won't... :-)
In that case, the magic number is 6.65". If you assemble the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and bellhousing together on the back of the block, hook a tape measure onto the front edge of the clutch disk hub (the side closest to the block) and measure to the tranny side of the bellhousing, you'll need to see at LEAST 6.65". Less is OK, more is not OK.
This way, you can guarantee you'll have full spline engagement. That mesurement should also tell you how much you may need to shave off the front of the bell. From looking at the bellhousing I have, I think you can get away with milling about 1/2" off of the front. If you know what alternator spacers look like, you can probably weld some of those over the bolt holes to help brace it up. Those are my ideas anyway.
Greg
-------------------------------------------------------
Thanks Greg, more good info. I did some simple measuring not exact yet because I do not have the tin spacer plate that goes between the engine and the bell housing. I also do not have the flywheel to engine bolts.
I hung the flywheel off the crank so that it sat flush to the crank and bolted up the bell. From the bell to the transmission surface area, and too the machined flywheel clutch surface is about 6 3/16" I assume the tin plate will add another 1/16" So it should be around 6 1/4".
Now the Jeep clutch disk spline surface is about 1" long and about 3/16" of the splines would be inset ahead of the flywheel machined surface. I guess I need to get a Supra clutch disk (correct R154 spline disk) and measure from the bell to the end of the clutch spline.
Hopefully I can get all this bolted up correctly and remeasure by the end of the week. I ordered the tin plate and the flywheel bolts from the dealer today.
I think this might all work out, I hope so because it would be a neat setup. Do you have a R154 transmission your measuring from? If this works out, where would a good place to get a R154 core or good trans? Im in Dallas and there is alot of good salvage yards.
Brian
-------------------------------------------------------------
Hi Brian,
Yes indeed I DO have the R154 that I'm measuring from. From the measurements you're giving me, it sounds like it just might work as is! Of course, you'll have to fab up your own pilot bushing. Also, what is the OD of your clutch disk? A gent from the Isuzu forum, Chris Pomeroy has figured out that the Toyota 3.0L V6 clutch disk is 9 3/8" (It will fit the R154 spines). He's mounting a Toyota R150F behind a Buick 3800 using a Dodge Dakota bellhousing.
Greg
--------------------------------------------
Hey greg, the jeep disk is 9". At Clutchnet Manufacturing Corp. The largest clutch selection in the world they list alot of toyota disk with the correct spline. There is some toyota disk that are under and over the 9" size. I think they also can build a 9" disk with the needed spline count. I hope to have some good measurement later in the week. Brian
------------------------------------------------------
Greg I still dont have the flywheel bolts, but I did find a R154 today. I got the trans ,shifter and the old clutch disk for $150. I thought that whas pretty good!. Well I bolted up my Jeep NV1500 bellhousing and slid the Toyota disk onto the splines. Giving alittle room for clutch wear, flywheel turning ect the disk surface is 2.74 from the bellhousing to block surface. Measuring the block mounting surface to the clutch surface on the flywheel I got a shade over 2.50". So anyway the bell will need to milled at least 0.25". I not going to crank up my mill until I get the rest of the parts and a flywheel that will be used. Stay tuned for final measurements ect. I will take pics, notes, and post them to add to your post. brian
----------------------------------------------------------
Watch out for the starter. Make sure you've got enough clearance after you mill. Oh, what is the distance from the front edge of the clutch hub to the back edge of the bellhousing.
Couple of other things. You'll probably need a 93 and later Jeep or Dakota front bearing retainer. It will make things a lot easier when it comes to hooking up the throwout bearing. Do you have a clutch arm and slave cylinder yet?
Greg
--------------------------------------------------
I checked the starter, it looks like it will be ok. I did not measure the starter clearance, but it has more than 1/4" between the starter nose and bellhousing.
I dont have the clutch arm or slave cylinder. "the distance from the front edge of the clutch hub to the back edge of the bellhousing" I'll check.
What type of bearing do you recomend? I do have a lathe if any spacers or such is needed. Brian
-----------------------------------------
I'm a big fan of stock components. Cheap and easy to pickup in case of failure. I only suggest using the Jeep\Dakota front bearing cover so you can put it back together with the stock Jeep\dakota throwout bearing and clutch arm. But... if you've got a lathe......
Greg
-----------------------------------------------------
Hey Greg, I got the rest of my components. I did some quick measurements w/digital calipers. The distance between the front edge of clutch disk hub to the back of the bell housing is about 6.72. Thats a hard measurement is difficult to measure. I will get a better measurment after taking it back apart. I do have good measurement from the back of clutch hub to bell. I will add the clutch hub thickness.
I think I would feel comfortable taking 0.375 off the bell. This would give me plenty of spline ingagement. This also would give me about 1/4" clearance between the clutch hub and bearing retainer (AX15 bearing retainer). I took your advice on the longer bearing retainer. No way would the short stock R154 retainer would work. I did get a cluch arm and bearing which is common jeep stuff.
Might need some advice on one thing. I am thinking of milling 0.250" off the front of the bell and 0.125 off the back. This way I would preserve the counter bore for the dowel locaters. Is this a good or bad idea? Later, Brian
-------------------------------------------------------
Man, if you're getting 6.72" from the front of the hub to the back of the bell, I'd say just mill .20" off of the front and call it a day! I don't think you'd weaken anything that way. That's a good starting point.
Greg
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f11...onversion.html