Slipping transmission and leaking coolant
#31
10-07-2009, 02:55 AM
#32
10-07-2009, 09:39 AM
Record Breaker
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Baltimore, Maryland
Posts: 1,216
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#33
10-11-2009, 07:56 PM
Rookie
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: WNY
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have been dealing with this issue for a while. I found an aftermarket replacement radiator that has what I think is an updated trans cooler. The OEM unit had a cooler with internal threads and was sealed by threading the hose nipples into it. Basically sandwiching the lower tank between the fitting and the cooler. The threads are not very sturdy or long either. Any leak here and you mix coolant and trans fluid. The replacement has the cooler and hose nipples as all one unit. The cooler is threaded on the outside for a nut to seal the cooler in tank. Much better and more reliable set up IMO.
#34
10-11-2009, 09:44 PM
#35
10-12-2009, 01:24 PM
Rookie
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: SL,UT
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If your not looking to do all of what I am, I'd go with the 1010. It is made for compact and small cars with a GVW of 12,000-14,000. The 1011 is for compact to small cars with occasional towing (14,000-16,000 GVW), but I am going to use it because of where I live and how I drive. Any aftermarket cooler not installed inline with the factory unit will keep them from mixing because you are bypassing the piece that can fail and cause them to mix.
Originally Posted by ATF cooler repair guide
If you do choose to install a tranny cooler, do not, let me repeat, do not bypass the factory cooler. Your intention is to ADD additional cooling to the system, not replace an engineered component (the factory
cooler). As such, what you do is just what Perry did. Trace your tranny lines, and determine which one is the SEND line, going into the factory cooler, and which one is the RETURN line.
cooler). As such, what you do is just what Perry did. Trace your tranny lines, and determine which one is the SEND line, going into the factory cooler, and which one is the RETURN line.
#36
10-12-2009, 09:28 PM
All Star
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Westland, Michigan
Posts: 763
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't get that post at all...there is nothing wrong with completely bypassing the stock trans cooler... I still hold is ENGINEERED wrong... but Chrysler would never admit it
with that logic, I guess we all have to take off our aftermarket Cold Air intakes and put the stock ones back on... because we "replaced a factory engineered component"
The mechanic that I worked closely with when I had all my troubles (which are all solved now) actually recommended places to go to get one and install it
with that logic, I guess we all have to take off our aftermarket Cold Air intakes and put the stock ones back on... because we "replaced a factory engineered component"
The mechanic that I worked closely with when I had all my troubles (which are all solved now) actually recommended places to go to get one and install it
#37
10-13-2009, 02:58 AM
Most people, unlike what you quoted from Allpar, that do this to Neons are in fact trying to replace it for the posted reason. Yes, if you simply wanted to add more cooling, obviously you'd keep the factory unit otherwise you wouldn't be adding to anything. I am using a bit bigger one than needed to 1. replace the factory unit and 2. add a bit more cooling.
#38
10-13-2009, 03:38 AM
Rookie
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: SL,UT
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#39
10-13-2009, 02:42 PM
#40
10-13-2009, 03:37 PM
Rookie
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: SL,UT
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So im going to order the 1010 now, but after i install it, how will i know if its operating at the right temps and working properly?
how hard would it be to ad a temp gauge to the tranny, or is it not really needed?