Hi group. My girl drives an 02 neon, and needs to replace her timing belt. I've changed dozens on other cars, never a Neon. Does the harmonic balancer on the 02 neons have a tapered bore, as earlier models did, and is it a PITA to remove?

AZ recommends a three jaw pulller for removal, and an installation tool for the balancer, is that what is recommended by one whose actually done the job?

Are there any other gotchas/nice to knows about the job?

Thanks in advance for any knowledge and hints.

Slim

 

u need the puller to remove it, shaft isnt tapered, or if it is its unnoticeable.

to reinstall the crank bolt and a socket (or washers)work fine

while ur in there do her waterpump too

 

...and the tensioner.

 

Thank you, thank you thank you. I did find a TB component kit, including TB, water pump, and a mechanical style tensioner, as a replacement/upgrade(?) to OEM hydraulic tensioner.

Can anyone say if the mechanical tensioners are as good or better than OEM?

My nephew once had the camshaft oil seal fail on an earlier model Neon, what an oily mess. I've never once replaced a camshaft seal, or had any trouble with one, so I'm tempted to just leave it alone. I don't mind replacing it, but do not want to court trouble. Nephew's neon did have a tapered bore balancer/pulley, it was not keyed to crankshaft, and it took quite a pull to break it loose. He wasn't careful, and broke off part of the flange that the puller teeth grabbed, and I had to help him arcweld back enough steel to give the puller something to grab, then pop the pulley off while it was still hot from the welding.

Has anyone heard of having to heat balancer with oxy/acetylene on gen 1 or gen2 neons to get the balancer to let go?

Obviously, I want to avoid this kind of go round with my Baby's ride. In fact, she wants to help and learn, so I really want everything to go right.

Thank you again.

 

They "upgraded" to a mechanical style over a hydraulic, so I'm assuming it is better. I believe that is what my kit came with.

I didn't change any seals out when I did the belt, pump and tensioner. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

Sometimes, you need heat.

 

i had to warm mine to get it off focused the heat right close to the crank

Mech tenioner is the way to go

 

The service manual indicates to use a scan tool relearn cam/crank. Is this a special Dodge scan tool, or will any OBD2 scanner do the relearn?

Is this a vital step, or fine tuning? Can anyone say if the car will run w/o the relearn?

Thanks, Slim.

 

No need for re-learn with a scan tool. Just make sure the battery was disconnected during the belt swap. After reconnecting the battery after you are done changing it, the ECU should divert itself back to it's factory timing tables, and should immediately start to re-learn the crank and cam positions on it's own thereafter, and smoothe it's timing programs out over the next 50-80 miles or so.

 

Thank you.

 

Thanks again. Most other mechanical tensioners I've seen are spring loaded, but need to be locked down with a bolt, after the spring sets the necessary tension.

Can anyone say if that is the same way the "upgraded" Neon mechanical tensionsers (2.0 L engine) work?

Did the OEM tensioners use engine oil pressure?

Thanks in advance, Slim.