10w30 Pennzoil full Synthetic and i use mopar filter thats what i been running since the truck has had 90k miles and i now have a 163k. it never has burned it leaked it or etc....till my plenum blew so i top it off with a quart once a week....

 

10w30 Pennzoil with a Mobil 1 filter.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en

Was on sale the other day for $14 for 4.73L jug. (5 Quarts approx.)

 

Hey guys, ran across an interesting article while on a Mustang forum:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq...tor_oil_basics

What do ya think?

 

I use Castrol GTX in all my vehicles.

 

Valvoline SynPower 10w-30 in summer, 5w-30 in winter with napa filter. Thinkin about goin to mobil 1 as it is cheaper than Valvoline and still synthetic. Why do so many use 40+ oils, isnt that pretty thick for these motors?

 

Yeah it is. It's not the pressure that lubricates, it's the flow. Too much pressure by running thicker oils actually reduces flow, thus reducing lubrication and cooling. I run what the manual recommends, with the exception of the cold start rating. I'm going to 0w for cold start.

Crap, that reminds me, I'm due for a change.

 

Mobil 1 10w30, Napa Platinum filter, 83k miles

 

0W-xx oil is not "thin"; it has to meet the same viscosity spec as any muligrade or straight grade at room temperature and at 100C/212F. It only is thin compared to other W grades or straight grades below 0F.

The "W" rating isn't really related to the second number which is the true viscosity; it's just that different oil base stocks of the same warm or hot viscosity have different properties when cold, so there's a separate test for W rating. There is even such a thing as 20W-20 muligrade oil.

API doesn't require an oil meet a High Temperature/High Shear specification but the Europeans do. It's done at 150C/302F. API does have a standard for HTHS though, and if you meet it you can spec it; it's just not mandatory for an API grade rating.

I use Mobil1 0W-40 year round in all my vehicles. I use it mostly because it performs well under all the conditions I encounter and with the different kinds of vehicles I use. Having a single brand and grade simplifies it for me.

If I didn't need extreme cold performance, I would probably look pretty hard at Rotella T6 (full synthetic, a diesel oil that is also rated for spark ignited gas, and the only diesel and gas oil I know of that the Japanese rate approved for motorcycle use).

Why Mobil1 0W-40?

It meets API for 0W below 0F.

It meets API for 40 weight at room temperature.

It meets API at 100C for xW-40, straight 40, 50, and 60.

It also meets the API and European HTHS spec for [0-20]W-40, [20+]W-40, straight 40, 50 and 60 at 150C/302F.

For best fuel economy or power you probably shouldn't use a -40 oil but the difference isn't much ... racing guys show a couple of HP with lower viscosity, like say a 20 wt or xW-20. Some of the OEMs are recommending xW-20 with the newest cars to meet CAFE.

There's no harm in running an 0W-xx in warmer climates but I wouldn't recommend it with dino oil since it requires a more complex and expensive additive package, which will wear over time. The lower you have to go with your VI improvers, the easier it breaks down. You're essentially paying more for what amounts to no extra cold flow unless it really is below 0F. Synthetics are a bit different on that front, more on that further down.

The Viscosity Improver additives as they break down tends to bring viscosity closer to the base oil, which is pretty much a secret viscosity per formula but as a FYI there are no 10 weight base oils so higher than that.

Another thing that happens as oil wears is the crap suspended in it ... the particles too small to get nailed by the filter in any great quantity and are not considered harmful to the engine by OEMs ... tends to cause viscosity to rise, so a worn oil can test to a higher viscosity than the API rating.

Probably not an issue if you're following a 3000 mile schedule but maybe if you go longer.

Synthetics don't really require additives to modify viscosity so a low W viscosity won't change due to VI additive breakdown, so not an issue in that case. They do exhibit the general viscosity increase with suspended wear particles, but at a lower rate than dino.

If you're following a short change interval (ie sooner than OEM severe service recommendation) I don't see anything wrong with a decent dino oil over synthetic. Some say even with the standard service interval there's no problem with dino, and I don't know of anything that would cause me to doubt that.

I do believe that synthetic is a better oil, and I can do a change with filter for under $50, which is less than some quick change shops or the dealer might charge. But if you are into minimal cost, can run in your climate with 5W-xx or 10W-xx (there are no conventional 0W-xx oils; at a minimum it must be synthetic blend), and don't push the interval, dino is probably the better choice money wise.

All I would look for is a HTHS spec, since the elevated temp it's done at tells you a lot about how the oil works when hot under actual operating conditions typical in an engine. Because it's not required for API, you should dig up that info from the oil company, since without it there is no way of knowing if your 30 or 40 weight oil is not thinning when very hot just from the API donut info.

There are a couple of types of synthetic oils. Grade IV is the original synthetic; there is a Grade V synthetic but it's not used for motor oil. In the last few years a method of making synthetic from Grade III base oils has been developed. Mobil1, Amsol, and Royal Purple are the only Grade IV synthetics on the market. All the others use the new method. I haven't seen any evidence that the new synthetics are inferior to the Grade IV's but FWIW, those oils cannot be called synthetic in Europe or Japan.

Grade II and III are conventional oils. The process of creating a synthetic changes the chemical composition of the oil in significant ways. Some people will say that because synthetics are derived from conventional oils, that they are "all the same". Well, almost all plastics are derived from conventional oil as well, and a synthetic is chemically closer to a liquid plastic than a petroleum product.

 

Pennzoil Ultra Synthetic 10W-30.

 

shell rolata 15w-40 stops them peskie leaks