What one you have, the A or L version?

That thing looks short or it is me? The tranny I mean.

What kind of slow stuff?

 

I just don't like doing this job. It's just not glorious or anything.

The factory ujoints from 97 finally let go on the driverside. Actually, one cap started breaking and remained together, thankfully. These old joints are not greaseable, which helped the needles dry out, as expected. But this joint can say that it touched the Rubicon on 2 occasions.

I thought this job was like 3 hours or something. Oh NO...all the live long day. grrr



Have to take alot of stuff off to get to the axleshaft, which is so much fun.






I thought I was cool with this big vise setup. No...the throat was not large enough to get sockets in to help press. So much for trail repair effort help! lol



So I whacked on each joint move them a bit.

Both caps moved a smidge, which was not enough to get vise grips on caps to turn...as that is supposed to be a way since caps are pressed onto the trunnion from the outside.



Used the press and finally the shaft side let go. However, still couldn't get them separated as not enough clearance on the cap from the yoke ear. Had to use cutoff wheel to remove cap material. What a PITA. No pictures of that frustrating bonanza, but here for working stub shaft side.




Tried the press and no freaking luck. Thought I was going to shoot something really bad in a direction of bad results. I think I might of yielded the yoke ears a few thousandths actually.

I ended up using that large socket, which was perfect for cap to go in and seat against the ear. It's the socket size for D60 pinion nut. Then used BFH and socket to whack cap from other end.

Then had to work the cap to break out to get the **** out!




It was a bit easier to press it all back together, but was a bit tricky to get the clips on the inboard side to seat properly. After all back together I look and I see....zerk is point in a difficult direction... Still can work it access it, but geez.


I'm getting a ujoint specific tool dang it! But this one is too expensive.

 

This works pretty good too.

http://www.harborfreight.com/ball-jo...les-60827.html

They are cheap and the "C" will bend at some point.

 

yep works like a charm. Throw the yoke in the vise, put the clamp on and get out the breaker bar.

 

I want to say it is the A...not really sure as I've had the transmission laying around for 3 months waiting to do this swap. It has the deepgrove ball bearing on the input shaft and the granny low first gear.

My rough measurements come to,
46RH = 31 3/4"
NP435 = 25 1/2"

She is going to be my dedicated wheeling rig.

 

Good to know that thing will actually work. I used that 3 years ago replacing the BJs on the Dana44...and bent it. Hence, didn't want to give it another try. It's definitely a more cost friendly tool by comparison.

 

Well it matters which one so that you know what your gear reduction is... Did you get a Dodge one to keep with be 23 spline, otherwise it's 10 spline.

Here is a breakdown on the reductions...



Are you going to add the Behemoth doubler to help with that driveshaft length? I can't remember if you are standard cab.

"Dedicated wheeling ring" does not answer "what kind of slow stuff".

 

If you have stock heads kiss them goodbye. If they ran out of water the temperature was most certainly well in excess of the 235 on your temp gauge. Change your oil right away too.

Put it this way: If stock heads can't handle the 190* factory running temp how much do you think they can handle at temps over 235*?

And I hate to break it to you, putting cold water in out of a hose into a steaming hot engine is a BAD idea. Could crack your block easily.

 

The cheaper ones are definitely not up to ball joint tasks on these axles. Much less a 60.

The higher quality and expensive ones are great and often come with some kind of lifetimes replacement policy.

The cheapo harbor freight one should be plenty for u joints. And is trail repair friendly.

 

This is greatly exaggerated. Are the stock worth rebuilding or putting money into? No. But they are not fragile as a 80 year old lady.

Water coming out of hose is hardly "cold". Is it a good idea? Nah...

His only real danger would be if there was a large air pocket that got trapped in the heads for a while before coolant circulated.