How about these headers? Anyone use these? Look like they are built pretty good and an excellent price. Dicuss.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-02...mZ170650196774

 

those honkin' huge loops are going to make changing plugs all but impossible- and they may not have the clearance on the drivers side.. i can't say that i've ever seen tubes ran like that..

stainless isn't going to help much but for looks.. they're going to dissipate heat just as fast as unwrapped or uncoated headers.. the trick is to keep 'em hot to improve the scavenge.. those aren't near as good as a ceramic coated product.

if i were you, i'd keep stay on the look out and avoid those... look for tubes that flow toward the rear in equal lengths as opposed to looping this way or that.. look for either ceramic coated or bare **** metal that's ready to be painted with heat temp paint (not the nice black coating they come with), or thick enough tubes to be header wrapped with less worries of rusting out.

the flashy part likely sells that product.. they'll get you once.. i doubt they get many people twice.

 

The loops or for increased torque

 

let me guess: by increasing 'backpressure', right?

 

Yep, that's why I just welded my exhaust shut, I can out tow anyone lol

 

BRILLIANT!!!!!!!

now, if we design tiny little one way valves impregnated into the head gasket that allows the really angry gas to escape and not blow the rest of the gasket- and we're on to something!!!

Original Poster: back pressure is bad.. never good.. each tube should be equal length.. you should be hoping for pipes that fit fairly close together to increase the heat source which draws the exhaust pulses toward and out of them like a vacuum.. (scavenging).. you don't want huge honkin loops that dissipate heat too quickly, which cools the exhaust pulse and creates a barrier the next pulse has to push through (cooler air is more dense than hot air).. back pressure will slow your rev, not allow as much spent a/f out as a good flowing exhaust would, and run a distinct possibility of blowing a head gasket left unchecked (well, until Chad and I market our new concept head gaskets that is)..

pacesetters.. long tubes.. if you don't have enough $ for them, save until you do..

 

What's wrong with short tubes? And I like the price on those eBay ones

 

nothing is wrong with shorties.. I run shorties.. they do better than stock manifolds, but marginally better is all.. long tubes do a whole helluva lot better than stock manifolds, and about the same difference between shorties as shorties are from stock..

we could talk all day about exhaust theory and the benefits of headers as opposed to exhaust manifolds, and the differences of long tube/short tube- but the real discussion is about these trucks... and.. the limiting factor on these trucks is the Y pipe.. it's hard to have a discussion about exhaust in this forum without saying that.. we can talk upwind of it, and downwind of it- but the Y is THE restriction..

the entire concept of exhaust is to get the spent a/f out.. fast.. so the cylinder can take a breath of fresh air as opposed to reusing the spent a/f that didn't get out.. also, you don't want the engine fighting to expel that spent a/f anymore than it has to.. so you use headers- which basically allows each cylinder to expel, and gives the pulse an opportunity (time) to clear before it needs to expel again.. if big honkin loops are present, the pipe remains cooler than it needs to be, and in turn cools the pulse, which slows it's movement and presents a barrier the next pulse has to breech.. (in manifolds, the exhaust passage directly exterior to the cylinder port is shared with the other cylinders, and though the heat generated is stronger than headers- to the point it almost equates shorty headers in the scavenging effect the heat generates- the space is too crowded with all that air to truly convey the pulses away as it could)

short tubes don't have as much tube (storage if you would) to clear the pulse until the next one comes along behind it.. there is a bottleneck at the collector.. luckily, the collector is a larger diameter which allows the air to relieve itself.. at the expense of velocity.. this is why a cat is a good thing in an exhaust system.. they get hotter than the exhaust gasses themselves- and tug on the pulses in a vacuum effect.. the higher flowing cat's do more good than they do harm, but the lower flowing cats barely break even on the scavenge/restriction model.. this is why high flow cats are just about a must on a system running full length exhaust (with all the bends present on full length exhausts using factory routing paths).

the Y, just before the cat- is THE problem, and the most restrictive point.. unless you have big honkin loops on shorty headers that is.. that dang thing is silly.. cut one open one day and see for yourself.. aftermarket Y's by jegs and magnaflow are FAR superior to OE..

if you do headers of any sort and don't address the Y, you're wasting your time.. (though, you'll HAVE to address the Y doing long tubes or mid tubes).. which brings me to ask, does anyone make mid tubes for our engines?

anyway.... nothing wrong with shorties.. they just aren't as good as longtubes.. there is something wrong with big honking loops that cool too quickly though.

 

hopefully ill be able to install my pacesetter long tubes this weekend, from summit they are on sale for 250 right now

 

100 dollar stainless headers? Somehow, I would really question the build quality, and material quality on those......