Wont hurt anything, even Randy's recommends it.

 

So my train of thought was off. I was thinking that it only took something like 1/3 of a turn of one tire with the other sitting still to lock it up.

 

Seriously? So I can do this myself, but and all I need to do is grind a gear down a little on the edge? After you get the pin out then how do you get the pin to stay in again? I'm new to this stuff and I want to know everything before I attack this.

 

The pin is held in place by either a bolt, or roll pin, that you will have to remove before the cross-pin will go anywhere. Just grinding a bit off of the one tooth there will give clearance so that once the bolt/roll-pin is out, you can slide the cross-pin out easily.

 

It is probably the same for the rest but my Dana 44 had the roll pin. My Dana 44 front axle is also a 30-spline with 3.55 Gears.

 

is there anyway you can mess something up by taking the ring off the carrier?

 

Just make sure when you put it back on, that you follow the CORRECT torque sequence on the bolts.... Also, they might be left hand thread, Don't know for sure.

 

Nope. All I did was mark the location with some white paint so I put it back on exactly the way it was just because. On a side note when I did my chevy last year I didn't mark anything and just lined up the holes and bolted it back on in the correct torque sequence.

Also there is nothing to worry about with throwing the backlash off or anything. When I pulled the carrier there was no adjusters or shims to deal with.

 

So then what exactly is the sequence on doing this. Would I still need to remove said c clips? By doing this what does it accomplish?

 

See my previous post #17 and #20 for links to pics I have on facebook and link to pavement sucks article I followed.

MoparMan are you doing the front or rear axle??

There were no c-clips on my front straight axle when I did it.

In short for my front dana 44, I basically pulled the front diff cover and while the fluid drained I removed the CAD vacuum unit, removed the tires calipers, rotors, then unbolted the three 14mm 12-point bolts on the back of my hubs on both sides and pulled them and the axles together, then slide the intermediate shaft via the CAD hole out far enough that is was out of the carrier.

There's two options so far for doing the install, in the truck and out. I pulled it out cause its what pavement sucks article did. To pull it I removed the main caps, and got the carrier out then took the ring gear off, beat the roll pin out and then got the cross pin out, from there I removed the spider gears then followed the locker install directions and installed it. Then put everything back together in reverse order.

In the end I now have a rebuild trac-lock (limited-slip) in the rear and automatic locker in the front.