Wheeling a fullsize
Wh1t3NuKle,
Nope my STaK's doesn't pop out of gear. I haven't been keeping up on Pirate so had missed all the threads about it.
My issue was when I first got it back in 2006. The 1st failure was the rear bearing welded itself to the shaft. They had to cut the main shaft in half to get the cases apart. Then had to machine a new rear case half because the original was ruined.
Then I got the replacement case back and the first trip out the front output bearing failed. All this was caused by me flat towing my Jeep. I had called and talked with them and everyone agreed on what I should do. So after the 2nd failure they just sent me a whole new box and I sent the other one back. Then for the 3rd issue I couldn't get the box to shift. Talked with the folks at STaK's again and they said I couldn't hurt anything so just apply pressure. Well I ended up bending the shift rails so they sent me new ones. Had to pull the huge heavy box AGAIN and crack it open. If you've never seen one before it is impressive. The gears are huge.
So it seems I have the popping out of gear issue to look forward to. At least I have the thread to fix this issue if it happens. I just hate having to pull that thing.
Here are some pictures of the STaK's t-case.


When they first came out with the STaK's box they offered the shift that is silver. After me plus a few other people bending the shift rails they changed the shifter to the black one. Works much better and you're not fighting getting the adjustment just right like you had to on the old shifter.
Nope my STaK's doesn't pop out of gear. I haven't been keeping up on Pirate so had missed all the threads about it.
My issue was when I first got it back in 2006. The 1st failure was the rear bearing welded itself to the shaft. They had to cut the main shaft in half to get the cases apart. Then had to machine a new rear case half because the original was ruined.
Then I got the replacement case back and the first trip out the front output bearing failed. All this was caused by me flat towing my Jeep. I had called and talked with them and everyone agreed on what I should do. So after the 2nd failure they just sent me a whole new box and I sent the other one back. Then for the 3rd issue I couldn't get the box to shift. Talked with the folks at STaK's again and they said I couldn't hurt anything so just apply pressure. Well I ended up bending the shift rails so they sent me new ones. Had to pull the huge heavy box AGAIN and crack it open. If you've never seen one before it is impressive. The gears are huge.
So it seems I have the popping out of gear issue to look forward to. At least I have the thread to fix this issue if it happens. I just hate having to pull that thing.
Here are some pictures of the STaK's t-case.


When they first came out with the STaK's box they offered the shift that is silver. After me plus a few other people bending the shift rails they changed the shifter to the black one. Works much better and you're not fighting getting the adjustment just right like you had to on the old shifter.
Last edited by Wildman4x4nut; Nov 3, 2013 at 05:41 PM.
Dude I so want the Stak. 3 speed is, I think, just ideal. I have not seen the internal pics, but I have seen the external pics. It dwarfs an Atlas like by another 40 lbs or something? I hope it comes together down the road. Definitely that updated set of shifters is an improvement given the increased section thickness and leverage from the geometry.
If I was ever in WA, then I'd be helping you hoof that thing. Soon enough, soon enough you'll be there.
If I was ever in WA, then I'd be helping you hoof that thing. Soon enough, soon enough you'll be there.
I totally understand. When I read about the STaK's when it was first coming out I was like "I'd like to try that out if I had the money". Well combat pay paid for a lot of mods to my Jeep. I forget that an Atlas weighs but the STaK's is 150 pounds of strength.
It is a good transfer case even with the few problems I have had. I'll most likely buy one of those shafts and just keep it until I need it.
This is what the old shifters looked like. And they had to make them like this to fit the TJ. That was part of why they shifted so poorly.

And another picture of the new shifter.

And a 44RE with the STaK's hooked to it. Let me tell you it is a bear of a job to get this installed under the jeep.

Test fitting the new shifter before I installed it.

And the new shifter installed thru the center console.

I'm sure once we both get done working on our rigs we'll hook up and go hit a trail somewhere.
It is a good transfer case even with the few problems I have had. I'll most likely buy one of those shafts and just keep it until I need it.
This is what the old shifters looked like. And they had to make them like this to fit the TJ. That was part of why they shifted so poorly.

And another picture of the new shifter.

And a 44RE with the STaK's hooked to it. Let me tell you it is a bear of a job to get this installed under the jeep.

Test fitting the new shifter before I installed it.

And the new shifter installed thru the center console.

I'm sure once we both get done working on our rigs we'll hook up and go hit a trail somewhere.
^Looks damn nice, shiny, and sweet.
I'm down!
Some cool reference links regarding the CAD system.
http://articles.mopar1973man.com/gen...roubleshooting
http://www.4x4wire.com/dodge/tech/solid_axle_cad/
Some cool reference links regarding the CAD system.
http://articles.mopar1973man.com/gen...roubleshooting
http://www.4x4wire.com/dodge/tech/solid_axle_cad/
Can't believe I'm just finding this thread now! Wh1teNukle, in regards to our CAD system, how would it work with say a locker in the front? The CAD will keep the passenger side (I believe) from engaging but would the diff and drive shaft always spin in 2WD?
Think of the CAD like manual locking hubs.
I'm going to assume you're thinking of a selectable locker, but it will be similar with a non-selectable.
CAD disengaged, Locker disengaged = Open differential
CAD disengaged, Locker engaged = driver side and driveshaft spins, still open
CAD engaged, Locker engaged = Full lock from driver to passenger
I'm going to assume you're thinking of a selectable locker, but it will be similar with a non-selectable.
CAD disengaged, Locker disengaged = Open differential
CAD disengaged, Locker engaged = driver side and driveshaft spins, still open
CAD engaged, Locker engaged = Full lock from driver to passenger
Good planning => Timely Execution











root pass



Finish Passes



Done, well 98%. Minor button up things, but driveable.













root pass



Finish Passes



Done, well 98%. Minor button up things, but driveable.


Last edited by Wh1t3NuKle; Feb 19, 2014 at 02:37 PM. Reason: added missing pics, rearranged some
Another few steps closer to being ready for the Ford D60 swap.
Lowers are 33.5" on bolt center
Uppers are 18.5" on bolt center (these were formerly my lowers that I made Nov. 2012)
Both are dual adjustable and I'm working out caster little bit at a time still. Also sway bar is disconnected due to the push forward of axle. I want to try and get it back in use.
Joints on the frame side are Metalcloak and the axle side are Ruff Stuff. I went with these on the axle for cost and just to try them out. Both are 1.25" shank diameter.
Lowers are 33.5" on bolt center
Uppers are 18.5" on bolt center (these were formerly my lowers that I made Nov. 2012)
Both are dual adjustable and I'm working out caster little bit at a time still. Also sway bar is disconnected due to the push forward of axle. I want to try and get it back in use.
Joints on the frame side are Metalcloak and the axle side are Ruff Stuff. I went with these on the axle for cost and just to try them out. Both are 1.25" shank diameter.
Last edited by Wh1t3NuKle; Feb 19, 2014 at 06:56 PM. Reason: arm and joint details








