All that looks so well done and professional. Looking great!

So why are usin A Ford D60? Kingpins?

 

And no CAD.

 

Interesting work WN

 

I put some pics in that were missing that shows the bracketry for the upper axle side.

These parts and things to do can be done by anyone. The only specialty part of this is getting a well versed welder in your pocket. I actually had a good friend of mine do these as it's his occupation. I don't strike an arc enough that I wanted to work these. I did however design everything.


Thanks Stewie! I have some axles for you....

HeyYou mentioned one benefit.

I didn't get a kingpin version. Those are (imo) are rediculously priced...like $1000 (sometimes including full outers) for stock form. They have 2 benefits that I'm ok without based on my build direction: high steer and longer driver side tube.

So mine is balljoint, slightly narrower and the knuckles are "considered" close to high steer enough in stock form relative to other years. I'm fine with this and ball joints are more favorable to me. There is great debate over strength between the 2 kinds of axle.

Other general benefits of the pre-superduty Ford axles are:

High pinion -- front driveshaft angle/clearance vastly improved (no clocking ring needed), pinion is away from obstacles

Manual locking hubs -- No CAD to deal with and tons of aftermarket support in this area

Generally larger aftermarket support altogether for all kinds of suspension setups, like tabs, trusses, etc.

That's not all the good things, yet still outweighs a Dodge D60. Only thing with the Dodge D60 is that it's readily bolt in. I don't care for the Dodge bracketry. I'll be designing for my own efficiency.

Right now my arms and such locate the current 44 in such a way that it will be very close to the Ford D60 swap. So I'll already have some time to learn how this behaves. Axle was pushed forward about 1.5". I could have left old arms on and I had no clearance issues.

 

Looks good. How long are those arms and what heim joints are those?

 

Thanks. Good questions that I should have stated. I'll edit the post after the pics, but here anyways too.

Lowers are 33.5" on bolt center

Uppers are 18.5" on bolt center (these were formerly my lowers that I made Nov. 2012)

Both are dual adjustable and I'm working out caster little bit at a time still. Also sway bar is disconnected due to the push forward of axle. I want to try and get it back in use.

Joints on the frame side are Metalcloak and the axle side are Ruff Stuff. I went with these on the axle for cost and just to try them out. Both are 1.25" shank diameter.

 

Cool. I was looking at those ruffstuff rod ends. When you put in the ford axle what are you going to do for springs?

 

It all depends on funds and time.

The $$ way(s) --

Coilovers is one way.

ORI struts are another way.

Both of the above is easier packaging on the axle, but will have to build new frame tower.

The economic way --

Keep the spring/shocks and build bucket onto axle.

 

Yeah it's hard to package our trucks massive coil springs. FOA coilovers are a decent price and I think someone makes a coilover mount that replaces the shock tower.

 

FOAs are the economical c/os. They aren't bad from all that I've looked at and are on my list of choices. However, they are not known for longevity and that's just one factor I look at considering the weight I'll be running at.

There are numerous options on c/o mounts. Either towers premade by Ruff Stuff and many of the myriad companies or custom fabing own.

I don't think it's actually that hard to package the larger Dodge coil springs. The issue is that in the typical nature of this kind of build (which I don't consider being hardcore) pushed the axle forward up to the 2-4" range. This enters track bar space encroachment and makes the coils tilt too much. I actually have an idea to mod the existing tower to accommodate in order to retain the already stout mounting it has to the frame.

We'll see....