building a most fuel economic ram 1500 5.2L
There's nothing wrong with trying to build a fuel efficient truck. Problem these trucks weren't designed for good fuel mileage. They were made was gas was cheap and no one cared about fuel economy.
Expecting reasonable mileage out of these trucks is crazy, some claim really good numbers, I can see up to 16mpg on the interstate, but if you want a truck that's half good on gas, go for a newer one that's built under some of the mpg laws....
Expecting reasonable mileage out of these trucks is crazy, some claim really good numbers, I can see up to 16mpg on the interstate, but if you want a truck that's half good on gas, go for a newer one that's built under some of the mpg laws....
it is those thing that make these engines so reliable. the old slant 6 that is almost impossible to kill ran a compression ratio of 7.5:1. sure they could have shaved 11/410 inch or so from the head surface and increase compression while loosing about 5 pounds of cast iron but it would not as reliable and bullet proof as they are.
If not, don't be too let down...
You want better power that translates into mpg's? E-fan & double roller timing chain. Roller rockers could help too, but that's getting expensive, and 1.7"s encourage more fuel to be used, and lets be honest, whos gonna buy 1.6"s with a stock cam? My e-fan setup cost ~$100, and double roller about $45. Both reduce friction and drag on the engine. Both help the engine to produce more power (esp at low rps where it counts) while still in stock form. My motor revs quicker and I am happy with the power with these being the only mods to it.

You want better power that translates into mpg's? E-fan & double roller timing chain. Roller rockers could help too, but that's getting expensive, and 1.7"s encourage more fuel to be used, and lets be honest, whos gonna buy 1.6"s with a stock cam? My e-fan setup cost ~$100, and double roller about $45. Both reduce friction and drag on the engine. Both help the engine to produce more power (esp at low rps where it counts) while still in stock form. My motor revs quicker and I am happy with the power with these being the only mods to it.
They don't stretch as much and I think consequently there is less drag on the engine BECAUSE it doesn't stretch.
Yeah buddy, rock it ole'-school! Same with mine. My truck has no idea if I unhooked the battery since the last time it was run or not.
To explain a bit better. The original timing chain in your truck is going to be stretched, guaranteed. It just happens over time with miles. Since everything having to do with an engine eventually wears out, I wouldn't try to say that a double roller timing chain will never stretch. So, double roller or not, a new timing chain will tighten up the relationship between crank and cam, causing the valves to open and close at precisely the right time, where they may have used to be a bit inaccurate with the old looser chain. So that's benefit #1 of replacing it, and that benefit would be acheived whether one used an original "morse" style chain or a double roller.
Benefit #2 is the friction reduction. There is less contact between the gear teeth and the chain with a double roller set, resulting in less friction. The contact that does exist is also more optimized by design of the chain/teeth, so it creates the least amount of drag possible. The morse chain is also significantly heavier than the double roller. Weight multiplies when rotated at speed, so as engine rpms increase, more rotating weight makes more drag, hindering quicker revs and horsepower.
In the case of removing extra load from an engine, you would see an mpg gain along with the extra power.
Last edited by Wombat Ranger; Dec 12, 2012 at 01:02 PM.
^ I like the characteristics of the motor in stock form. If I wanted to change valve timing I would do so with an aftermarket cam. I don't think that changing the degree of a stock cam by 3 degrees in a stock electronically controlled engine would make any beneficial difference whatsoever, so I left it stock.





