building a most fuel economic ram 1500 5.2L
#132
Some say they don't stretch as much, I can't comment on that as I have a fairly stretched double roller in my '72 d100's 318, but the main benefits in my opinion are 1) replacing the old worn and stretched timing chain with a new tight one, and 2) it is much lighter to turn and creates far less friction.
To explain a bit better. The original timing chain in your truck is going to be stretched, guaranteed. It just happens over time with miles. Since everything having to do with an engine eventually wears out, I wouldn't try to say that a double roller timing chain will never stretch. So, double roller or not, a new timing chain will tighten up the relationship between crank and cam, causing the valves to open and close at precisely the right time, where they may have used to be a bit inaccurate with the old looser chain. So that's benefit #1 of replacing it, and that benefit would be acheived whether one used an original "morse" style chain or a double roller.
Benefit #2 is the friction reduction. There is less contact between the gear teeth and the chain with a double roller set, resulting in less friction. The contact that does exist is also more optimized by design of the chain/teeth, so it creates the least amount of drag possible. The morse chain is also significantly heavier than the double roller. Weight multiplies when rotated at speed, so as engine rpms increase, more rotating weight makes more drag, hindering quicker revs and horsepower.
In the case of removing extra load from an engine, you would see an mpg gain along with the extra power.
To explain a bit better. The original timing chain in your truck is going to be stretched, guaranteed. It just happens over time with miles. Since everything having to do with an engine eventually wears out, I wouldn't try to say that a double roller timing chain will never stretch. So, double roller or not, a new timing chain will tighten up the relationship between crank and cam, causing the valves to open and close at precisely the right time, where they may have used to be a bit inaccurate with the old looser chain. So that's benefit #1 of replacing it, and that benefit would be acheived whether one used an original "morse" style chain or a double roller.
Benefit #2 is the friction reduction. There is less contact between the gear teeth and the chain with a double roller set, resulting in less friction. The contact that does exist is also more optimized by design of the chain/teeth, so it creates the least amount of drag possible. The morse chain is also significantly heavier than the double roller. Weight multiplies when rotated at speed, so as engine rpms increase, more rotating weight makes more drag, hindering quicker revs and horsepower.
In the case of removing extra load from an engine, you would see an mpg gain along with the extra power.
^ I like the characteristics of the motor in stock form. If I wanted to change valve timing I would do so with an aftermarket cam. I don't think that changing the degree of a stock cam by 3 degrees in a stock electronically controlled engine would make any beneficial difference whatsoever, so I left it stock.
#133
Some say they don't stretch as much, I can't comment on that as I have a fairly stretched double roller in my '72 d100's 318, but the main benefits in my opinion are 1) replacing the old worn and stretched timing chain with a new tight one, and 2) it is much lighter to turn and creates far less friction.
To explain a bit better. The original timing chain in your truck is going to be stretched, guaranteed. It just happens over time with miles. Since everything having to do with an engine eventually wears out, I wouldn't try to say that a double roller timing chain will never stretch. So, double roller or not, a new timing chain will tighten up the relationship between crank and cam, causing the valves to open and close at precisely the right time, where they may have used to be a bit inaccurate with the old looser chain. So that's benefit #1 of replacing it, and that benefit would be acheived whether one used an original "morse" style chain or a double roller.
Benefit #2 is the friction reduction. There is less contact between the gear teeth and the chain with a double roller set, resulting in less friction. The contact that does exist is also more optimized by design of the chain/teeth, so it creates the least amount of drag possible. The morse chain is also significantly heavier than the double roller. Weight multiplies when rotated at speed, so as engine rpms increase, more rotating weight makes more drag, hindering quicker revs and horsepower.
In the case of removing extra load from an engine, you would see an mpg gain along with the extra power.
To explain a bit better. The original timing chain in your truck is going to be stretched, guaranteed. It just happens over time with miles. Since everything having to do with an engine eventually wears out, I wouldn't try to say that a double roller timing chain will never stretch. So, double roller or not, a new timing chain will tighten up the relationship between crank and cam, causing the valves to open and close at precisely the right time, where they may have used to be a bit inaccurate with the old looser chain. So that's benefit #1 of replacing it, and that benefit would be acheived whether one used an original "morse" style chain or a double roller.
Benefit #2 is the friction reduction. There is less contact between the gear teeth and the chain with a double roller set, resulting in less friction. The contact that does exist is also more optimized by design of the chain/teeth, so it creates the least amount of drag possible. The morse chain is also significantly heavier than the double roller. Weight multiplies when rotated at speed, so as engine rpms increase, more rotating weight makes more drag, hindering quicker revs and horsepower.
In the case of removing extra load from an engine, you would see an mpg gain along with the extra power.
#134
#135
#136
#138
lol. you should still call up a junk yard and see what they would want. i would take a stock stereo with wiring for $10 or less. if you could also get some speakers cheap that also be good. too bad you didn't live a lot closer. i still got the stereo that came out of my 81. i also had some old speakers that would be better than nothing.
#139
lol. you should still call up a junk yard and see what they would want. i would take a stock stereo with wiring for $10 or less. if you could also get some speakers cheap that also be good. too bad you didn't live a lot closer. i still got the stereo that came out of my 81. i also had some old speakers that would be better than nothing.
#140
lol. you should still call up a junk yard and see what they would want. i would take a stock stereo with wiring for $10 or less. if you could also get some speakers cheap that also be good. too bad you didn't live a lot closer. i still got the stereo that came out of my 81. i also had some old speakers that would be better than nothing.
I'll likely end up just pulling the radio and whatever wiring I can find, out, and making a plastic cover plate.
That WAS a power wire, I think...
That is the radio. All the connections fell apart and nothing is labeled, so I have no idea where anything goes.
But anyway, thread-jack aside.