What torque out put do I need for rolling burnouts?
#41
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
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Z06 weighs in about 3100 pounds, with 750 horsepower, that would mean a weight/power ratio of 4.13 pound/horsepower.
The dodge ram 1500 (going to assume extended cab/short bed) weighs in at around 5000 lbs... doing the math to get the same weight to power ratio..... you would need a little over 1200 horsepower to get a comparable weight/power ratio.....
So, how much do you want to spend? 1200 horse from a 360 is going to be measure in tens of thousands of dollars, and it won't exactly be streetable either....
The dodge ram 1500 (going to assume extended cab/short bed) weighs in at around 5000 lbs... doing the math to get the same weight to power ratio..... you would need a little over 1200 horsepower to get a comparable weight/power ratio.....
So, how much do you want to spend? 1200 horse from a 360 is going to be measure in tens of thousands of dollars, and it won't exactly be streetable either....
"2002 24v 2500 cummins 5 spd"
#43
tires really do play a huge part in this. bfg mud terrains are not going to break loose easily on dry pavement even with 1000hp. they are a sticky tire and have excellent traction. now a cheap stock tire or tire rated to last 80k miles + is going to light up easily because its a hard tire with poor traction.
and ya still didn't read it all..
40mph roll I have lit up the mud tires. you gotta power brake it to get it started though...once its started it'll stay goin. and never do it in final drive gear...you WILL break the gear trying to do it in overdrive...
I broke 5th and 6th gears in my NV5600 (6-spd manual) just by putting the skinny to the floor up a 6% grade with no weight in the truck at all from a 1500rpm start already in gear and cruising... turbo boost pegged 65psi in about a second and truck was pullin hard and boom...gears gone and free revvin...try to go into 5th, its gone too...finally ground it into 4th (synchros went with the other two gears) and got it home limping with nasty grinding noises the whole time...
Last edited by Jigabop; 01-31-2013 at 02:39 PM.
#46
mine?
too much... LOL
lets see...
brand new retail...
$800 fueling box with monitor
$65 fuel pressure gauge
$100 dual boost gauges
$100 custom made pillar mount for gauges
$30 steering column gauge mount
$1400 Dual disc clutch kit + upgraded clutch hydraulics
$1200 S357 turbo
$700 S475 turbo
$1200 twin turbo plumbing kit
$300 5" exhaust + 5" downpipe
$400 ARP #425 head studs
$180 upgraded intercooler boot kit with spring clamps
$600 7x.010 injectors
$600 150GPH fuel system with 1/2" fuel lines
$300 modified liberty fuel module
$~200 powder coat for twin plumbing and various other engine parts
that should cover go fast parts and supporting mods I have so far...doesn't count steering upgrades or in dash nav or sub and amps, etc...
nor does it count repairs along the way to get it to that point..(2 blown turbos, blown head gasket, etc..)
yes over $8k into motor mods and supporting mods alone.
the older cummins trucks are not the cheapest to break 500hp with. but once you get all of the supporting mods there, they are reliable daily drivers at those power levels that will tow anything...
same hp level can be built for cheaper but if you have ever rode in a 500hp single turbo truck and a 500hp compound twin turbo truck you will notice a huge difference of how they drive and handle on the road...the 500hp single turbo is gutless until it gets toward the end of its RPM range and the turbo finally spools and launches it hard... the compound twin trucks power comes in far sooner making its power actually useable for more than just competition.
also a note...I didn't pay full price for everything...I got my injectors used, got head studs, twin kit, and turbos at a discounted price, got clutch at a discounted price, etc...so I have a bit less than full retail, but it gives you a ballpark idea.
too much... LOL
lets see...
brand new retail...
$800 fueling box with monitor
$65 fuel pressure gauge
$100 dual boost gauges
$100 custom made pillar mount for gauges
$30 steering column gauge mount
$1400 Dual disc clutch kit + upgraded clutch hydraulics
$1200 S357 turbo
$700 S475 turbo
$1200 twin turbo plumbing kit
$300 5" exhaust + 5" downpipe
$400 ARP #425 head studs
$180 upgraded intercooler boot kit with spring clamps
$600 7x.010 injectors
$600 150GPH fuel system with 1/2" fuel lines
$300 modified liberty fuel module
$~200 powder coat for twin plumbing and various other engine parts
that should cover go fast parts and supporting mods I have so far...doesn't count steering upgrades or in dash nav or sub and amps, etc...
nor does it count repairs along the way to get it to that point..(2 blown turbos, blown head gasket, etc..)
yes over $8k into motor mods and supporting mods alone.
the older cummins trucks are not the cheapest to break 500hp with. but once you get all of the supporting mods there, they are reliable daily drivers at those power levels that will tow anything...
same hp level can be built for cheaper but if you have ever rode in a 500hp single turbo truck and a 500hp compound twin turbo truck you will notice a huge difference of how they drive and handle on the road...the 500hp single turbo is gutless until it gets toward the end of its RPM range and the turbo finally spools and launches it hard... the compound twin trucks power comes in far sooner making its power actually useable for more than just competition.
also a note...I didn't pay full price for everything...I got my injectors used, got head studs, twin kit, and turbos at a discounted price, got clutch at a discounted price, etc...so I have a bit less than full retail, but it gives you a ballpark idea.
Last edited by Jigabop; 01-31-2013 at 03:26 PM.
#47
I'm going to have to call BS on the 750 whp Vette running 8.90's. Rolling burnouts in it should be easy though. My car with around 500 whp smokes tires easily under 60 or 70.
#49
Sorry, I guess I didn't shear off splines in a trans, or **** my pants, I forgot you were there with us. Here's a better question, if you already knew the answers why did you ask?
#50
Rolling burnouts on a freeway is NOT what hot rods are all about! Some of us may be old enough to remember when Hot Rodding was alll the rage. It was not about doing things on crowded highways. More for track and streets less traveled (usually at the outskirts of town) where no one was likely to get hurt (or caught by Johnny Law).
And instead of telling us what NOT to tell you, why don't you educate us about how this isn't dumb by providing intelligent reasoning, and telling us it's worth, in your opinion?
Probably a good idea