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360 Rebuild!

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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 07:48 PM
  #141  
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Depends on your headers I would think.
I have LT's, and they are much further from the engine mounts than the stock manifold.
Also I have ceramic coated, so more of the heat should be retained in the pipe and not radiated into the engine bay.

And now for some numbers to put to the argument;
I have an engine oil temp gauge wired up, but the sensor isn't installed yet... I have the sensor tie wrapped to the outside of the engine mount heat shield.
With 80°F ambient temp, the most on the gauge after 30 miles of highway driving and pulling up for a heat soak, is 128°F.
I'm thinking radiant heat from the block would be close to that, so the heat shield isn't doing anything (in my situation).
 
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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 09:44 PM
  #142  
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Two progress pics:



One from today

Hopefully tomorrow I can set the fuel sync and have her running!
 
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Old Apr 1, 2014 | 11:02 PM
  #143  
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Sweet don't forgot to get a video!
 
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Old Apr 2, 2014 | 07:56 AM
  #144  
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I won't!
 
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Old Apr 2, 2014 | 09:06 AM
  #145  
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I like the color scheme
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 01:41 PM
  #146  
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Thanks Ham, I thought it'd fit with the truck.....Well she's running now I hooked up our school's scanner and the fuel sync said good with the degree bouncing between 6 and 9. Is that good???..motor runs great and smooth. I do have a video of it. I have Valvoline 10w30 syn in it right now, is that ok to run the syn. in it to break it in? Ive heard from multiple people that it won't hurt it and others say I said use conventional. I plan on using conventional for the first couple changes but then will switch over to syn. I'm just curious on the first break-in period.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 01:54 PM
  #147  
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We have roller cams. They are much more efficient and have way less friction so a convetional break in is not needed as with a flat tappet
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 03:25 PM
  #148  
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I do not think you should be using synthetic oil for a break in oil. Your rings are not going to seat in the cylinders running synthetic. My suggestion is to drain that oil ASAP and then put dino oil in. Also get some break in additive for your oil. Lucas Oil makes some and so do other manufacturers. You need to run dino oil for the first 5,000 miles. After that you can switch to synthetic oil.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 03:57 PM
  #149  
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I agree, no synthetic right off the bat.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 04:00 PM
  #150  
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Looks real good man!!
 
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