360 Rebuild!
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Joined: Sep 2012
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From: North Dakota
Ok, I'll check it again but I took the truck for a run today and there was no spark knock or anything wrong with the engine. Ran great 
I'm still waitin for my custom tune from Hemifever but that'll be soon. I'm thinking my fuel sync should be ok with the range I gave tho right?
I'm still waitin for my custom tune from Hemifever but that'll be soon. I'm thinking my fuel sync should be ok with the range I gave tho right?
I do not think you should be using synthetic oil for a break in oil. Your rings are not going to seat in the cylinders running synthetic. My suggestion is to drain that oil ASAP and then put dino oil in. Also get some break in additive for your oil. Lucas Oil makes some and so do other manufacturers. You need to run dino oil for the first 5,000 miles. After that you can switch to synthetic oil.
I really dont think it matters. But I'd like to know the reasoning behind no synthetic for break In oil.
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Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Cle Elum, WA
Ham Bone,
The reasoning behind no synthetic for break in has always been because it is too slippery. It won't allow the rings to seat in the cylinder walls properly. Now all this is stuff I was taught as OLD SCHOOL things. Yes I know some manufacturers do now ship their cars with synthetic oil. My guess is that the break in was done before they sent the vehicle to the dealer.
I would just hate to see all the hard work that Blue has done to his truck be ruined because of running the wrong oil for break in. Back when synthetic oil first came out the oil manufacturers even told us not to run it in an engine until it was broke in. I know when I get ready to break in my engine it will have break in oil in it before I start it. Try doing a search on google and see what you come up with.
Ok I just got done doing some searching and here is what I have found.
"All About Oil
Engine Break-in
For years after the introduction of the high performance detergent oils, many mechanics continued to use non-detergent oils during the engine break-in period. Some mechanics still use non-detergent break-in oils with good success, although most would rather move in with their mother-in-law than treat an engine that way during those first critical moments. As you might expect, *******ly no one uses synthetics during engine break-in.
Oddly, the reason why one oil may or may not work as a break-in lubricant has less to do with the base stock than with the additive package. Even many synthetics would be fine break-in lubricants if they were not so loaded with friction modifiers and extreme-pressure agents. This is not to say that you should never use it (as many racers already know), but that the additives may delay the break-in process. Of course, by using a non-detergent oil, you avoid the entire discussion of additives because there are so few additives to talk about.
If you want to play it safe, you are usually better off sticking with an SG- or SF-rated oil for break-in. If you want to try a non-detergent oil, the best bet is to leave it in the engine only long enough for the parts to scuff in — which can take anywhere from 20 minutes to a couple hundred miles — before changing to a detergent oil.
Even if your synthetic's additive package is mild enough for use during break-in, another good reason for using conventional oil instead is the cost of most synthetics. No break-in oil, no matter what it's made of, should be left in the engine longer than 1,000 miles. It is a shame to dump a bunch of costly synthetic with that low mileage."
That article came from Greg Raven on the Web.
The reasoning behind no synthetic for break in has always been because it is too slippery. It won't allow the rings to seat in the cylinder walls properly. Now all this is stuff I was taught as OLD SCHOOL things. Yes I know some manufacturers do now ship their cars with synthetic oil. My guess is that the break in was done before they sent the vehicle to the dealer.
I would just hate to see all the hard work that Blue has done to his truck be ruined because of running the wrong oil for break in. Back when synthetic oil first came out the oil manufacturers even told us not to run it in an engine until it was broke in. I know when I get ready to break in my engine it will have break in oil in it before I start it. Try doing a search on google and see what you come up with.
Ok I just got done doing some searching and here is what I have found.
"All About Oil
Engine Break-in
For years after the introduction of the high performance detergent oils, many mechanics continued to use non-detergent oils during the engine break-in period. Some mechanics still use non-detergent break-in oils with good success, although most would rather move in with their mother-in-law than treat an engine that way during those first critical moments. As you might expect, *******ly no one uses synthetics during engine break-in.
Oddly, the reason why one oil may or may not work as a break-in lubricant has less to do with the base stock than with the additive package. Even many synthetics would be fine break-in lubricants if they were not so loaded with friction modifiers and extreme-pressure agents. This is not to say that you should never use it (as many racers already know), but that the additives may delay the break-in process. Of course, by using a non-detergent oil, you avoid the entire discussion of additives because there are so few additives to talk about.
If you want to play it safe, you are usually better off sticking with an SG- or SF-rated oil for break-in. If you want to try a non-detergent oil, the best bet is to leave it in the engine only long enough for the parts to scuff in — which can take anywhere from 20 minutes to a couple hundred miles — before changing to a detergent oil.
Even if your synthetic's additive package is mild enough for use during break-in, another good reason for using conventional oil instead is the cost of most synthetics. No break-in oil, no matter what it's made of, should be left in the engine longer than 1,000 miles. It is a shame to dump a bunch of costly synthetic with that low mileage."
That article came from Greg Raven on the Web.
Last edited by Wildman4x4nut; Apr 6, 2014 at 01:47 AM.
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From: Clayton MI
The reason newer cars came with synthetic oil right from the factory is because machining tolerances could be much better with new technologies hitting the market. Less break-in time was required.
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From: North Dakota
I'm running conventional for the time being..my concern is almost everytime I take a turn driving my rpm's dip down then shoot up. If I take the corner really slow with almost no throttle, it doesn't buck around. I'm thinking its my fuel sync (?) but my old motor did the same. Anyone tell me why my truck does this?