I noticed that there isn't really a DIY for the diesel coil swap and I am hoping that this would help anyone thinking about it or doing the swap. I might be off on parts of the swap since I did this in September of 2014 so please bear with me.

Tools needed:

2 Standard set of wrenches from 3/8"-7/8" (I don't recall any nut or bolt larger than 7/8")
Tire Iron
Jack Stands
Jack of your preference


Recommended Tools:

Ratchet with extensions
3/8"-7/8" regular and deep sockets
Air tools always make things go faster
Spring compressor

I personally went with new, variable rate, diesel coils springs since the added weight of my from bumper made the front end sag lower that what the factory bumper did.


To start the swap off, you do the basics as you would when jacking up any vehicle. Block your rear wheels, set parking brake, raise the front end of your truck, and make sure your jack stands are on the frame. I personally went ahead and jacked it up so that the tires were a good 1" 1/2"-2" off the ground or you could just raise it up enough to get the wheels off since most jack stands don't go that high. Just make sure that the front axle can hang freely






Next off, with the axle hanging, remove the top shock nuts and the bottom shock mounting bolts.
*Caution* This will drop your axle so that only your steering components, sway bar, and control arms are stopping the axle from completely dropping out.





Here's a comparison from my old springs to the new ones




After that, you can pull your old springs and shocks out. Put your shocks inside of your new coil springs (this is where a spring compressor comes in handy) and start the re-install. Make sure to put the bottom part of coil spring in the bucket on the axle. If you have trouble getting the spring into the top bucket, you can put a bottle jack between the rubber bump stop and frame to help lower the axle more. Depending on the type of new coil springs you have, there might need to be a specific side that is down. I got variable rate springs so the side that had the coil wound closer together was the bottom.




You might need to compress your springs, depending on how much travel you have in your shocks, by raising the axle towards the frame so you can reattach your shocks.




Towards the end, I didn't get a lot of pictures since I was getting excited to be finished, but you are essentially the opposite of the disassemble process. Just make sure to torque everything down and double check that every bolt/nut is tight. Hope this helps those of you who are debating on weather or not to do it. Good luck and I look forward to seeing your leveled truck out on the trails!

 

Cool! Looks easier than I expected.

 

Good write up!


I found it much easier to drop the axle basically to the ground. Then basically you can just slide the springs in there.

Definetly put your shocks back in AFTER you get the spring situated. I think you meant that but I wasnt sure.

 

what amount of lift did that give you? been looking at doing that myself as a cheaper way of lifting. then add what i need in the rear of the truck to offset

 

can get anywhere from 1.5 to 3". (generally around 2" or so.) Depends on how much your springs have sagged.

 

I had the springs in the lower and upper buckets before I re-installed the nuts and bolts for the shocks. To save time, I unbolted the stud from the shock towers, that's why I said to but the shocks inside the coils and place them in all at once.


Originally, it leveled me out pretty close to 0* but I was using a bubble level so I can't say for sure. As it sits now, it looks like it is down in the rear a little. Here's some before and after pics so you can take a look yourself




Here's the most recent I have after a muddin' trip about 5-6 weeks ago, sorry for it being blurry

 

One should never let the steering linkage & swaybar support the weight of the front diff. I have installed 7" lift coils and never have had to use a coil spring compressor.

1 Remove the drag link from the pitman arm
2 Disconnect the sway bar end links
3 Disconnect the track-bar

This will let the front diff drop more than enough to install 5" lift coils without a spring compressor.

 

I agree with Merc 100%, and if you're trying to do a DIY never put jack stands on concrete blocks. There are PLENTY of jack stands on the market tall enough to do the job safely, (or as I've learned recently, brake drums serve as a good, safe spacer!) pretty cheap too.

 

The control arms and track bar keep it from from dropping out.

 

I am well aware that this was no where close to a professional shop job and I have a very limited to what tools I have access to. I personally think using those brick slaps were a lot safer than what I used last time (2x4s stacked under each four coners of the jackstand).

I didn't like doing that and I put the bottle jack under the axle so that it could slowly drop it instead of just letting it drop once the shocks were unbolted.

I have updated the post with the suggestions that you have all been posting.