2nd Gen RAM general discussion/NON-tech This section is for general discussions about your 2nd gen RAM. Non tech related RAM threads belong here.

Bypass Transfer Case Vacuum Switch -- Feedback

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Nov 2, 2013 | 05:35 PM
  #1  
Wh1t3NuKle's Avatar
Wh1t3NuKle
Thread Starter
|
Champion
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,891
Likes: 8
From: NorCal
Lightbulb Bypass Transfer Case Vacuum Switch -- Feedback

From my Build Thread at about page 18, I was getting familiar with the CAD and Tcase more so because of obtaining a Jeep Tcase. Issue to deal with while still having the CAD D44 axle was engagement. The tcase contains the switch for going between 2/4wd. Typically, us CAD users either have to repair the vacuum system or just go to a Posilok cable. Personally, I don't want to toss another $150 at my front axle knowing it will be changed out. It has had mixed reviews on it's (posilok) performance. Some limitations, at least for me, would be length of the cable for droop. I'm not saying it's a bad alternative as there are some good experiences reported here on it.

If your vacuum system works well and you'd also like to remove the dependence on the tcase switch, then this might be an option for you. I've done one preliminary setup so far. Approximate cost at this point is $50. I have a few little things to dial in, but here is a video.

Check it out and give me your feedback.



Name:  2013-10-09_14-06-14_89_zpsd9fb27b8.jpg
Views: 3893
Size:  51.8 KB






Name:  IMG_20131030_162240_887_zps03273b11.jpg
Views: 5845
Size:  714.6 KB

Red is for 2wd.
 
Reply
Old Nov 2, 2013 | 06:02 PM
  #2  
HeyYou's Avatar
HeyYou
Administrator
Veteran: Air Force
Community Favorite
15 Year Member
Community Builder
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,468
Likes: 4,220
From: Clayton MI
Default

I think the CAD cover is the same size for both axles, so, if you went with the posi-lock, just unbolt the cover, and swap it to the new axle.

Cable is like 6 feet long... I don't think you would have a problem with droop.
 
Reply
Old Nov 2, 2013 | 07:30 PM
  #3  
Wh1t3NuKle's Avatar
Wh1t3NuKle
Thread Starter
|
Champion
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,891
Likes: 8
From: NorCal
Default

I forgot to say that you route these air lines anywhere. This was just the simplest and least amount used for testing. Best part is not routing all above the Case. The vent and source lines come down the top of tranny. Very difficult to feel and you can't see for sure. About 4" before case is the T off of red/black lines. Grabbing about up there is susceptible to damaging the already brittle lines.

Effectively you can pull source and vent up high behind manifold. Run separate lines to CAD.

Best place I think is hole in t case shifter and run out the boot or plastic casing.
 
Reply
Old Nov 2, 2013 | 09:17 PM
  #4  
HeyYou's Avatar
HeyYou
Administrator
Veteran: Air Force
Community Favorite
15 Year Member
Community Builder
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,468
Likes: 4,220
From: Clayton MI
Default

I was thinking about mounting it right on the T-case shifter, and running it out the boot.
 
Reply
Old Nov 2, 2013 | 10:46 PM
  #5  
BBartow's Avatar
BBartow
Captain
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 728
Likes: 1
From: New Port Richey, Florida
Default

Earlier today I needed 4WD, but the sucker wouldn't engage. Ended up being just a clogged port for the switch due to a broken vac line.

I've been considering a Posi-Lok system since its only $160 and can be used when I upgrade axles, but this is good information right here. Giving me future ideas!
 
Reply
Old Nov 5, 2013 | 06:52 AM
  #6  
Wh1t3NuKle's Avatar
Wh1t3NuKle
Thread Starter
|
Champion
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,891
Likes: 8
From: NorCal
Default

Well, this is meant to be a low cost alternative. The air lines are larger and can be placed in conduit or a better protective covering, mostly from the exhaust heat. Additionally, find a suitable low buck elastic retention to keep it up, yet allow it to move.

This stuff is available and I would not be selling it.
 
Reply
Old Jun 15, 2014 | 02:12 PM
  #7  
LocoMech's Avatar
LocoMech
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Vernon B.C.
Default

Do you have a part number or manufacturer for that switch?
 
Reply
Old Jun 16, 2014 | 09:35 AM
  #8  
Wh1t3NuKle's Avatar
Wh1t3NuKle
Thread Starter
|
Champion
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,891
Likes: 8
From: NorCal
Default

Hi there LocoMech,

I had to do some searching as i purchased off of Ebay. Here is the link of what I had gotten and hope it works.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300887817620?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
Reply
Old Nov 25, 2014 | 01:11 AM
  #9  
jpsycoboy5's Avatar
jpsycoboy5
Professional
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
Default

Hey guys sorry to bring up an old thread but I remember when this was first posted well I now have 4wd problems and I was wondering if there was ever a DIY wrote up on how to do this?
 
Reply
Old Nov 25, 2014 | 10:17 AM
  #10  
Wh1t3NuKle's Avatar
Wh1t3NuKle
Thread Starter
|
Champion
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,891
Likes: 8
From: NorCal
Default

This is the writeup as it is....hahahah!

I didn't take it any further due to winter time hit, ended up not having any CAD issues, and wanted to research on a different set of connectors between the line sizes.

All that really needs to be done is tapping into the lines from the tcase switch to route into the cab to the pneumatic lever. Then drop another set of lines to the tranny crossmember for the hardline connection. That gets it completed to the CAD assuming those lines are all good.

Prior to any of this though is to verify the CAD is working properly. Changing out to this much simpler and cost effective method only to find out the CAD itself or something else is borked would leave me frustrated at least.
 
Reply



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:02 PM.