408 build (needing a second mortgage 😯)
#11
Yeah, I went a'lookin', and they are indeed 1300 a pair.... although, if you look around, you can find individual, complete heads, for 550 each..... Of course, I also found what certainly looked like two identical pairs of heads, one set for 570, the other set for 700 and some change. No clue what the difference was.... I sure couldn't find it.
#12
According to the guy I just got off the phone with at Odessa. The 790 are stock sized eq heads.
I had ordered the 570 heads, seeing as how I could tell no difference between the two and left the specs for my camshaft. They then called me and said the stock heads couldnt take that can with significant grinding of valve guides and things.
But they could set me up with EQ heads for 890. So the 790 plus upgraded springs, some kind of swirl on the valve and stainless steel valves. Oh and different retainers.
I am waiting on a call back from them as I need the upgraded heads and how they want me to pay for the difference.
I had ordered the 570 heads, seeing as how I could tell no difference between the two and left the specs for my camshaft. They then called me and said the stock heads couldnt take that can with significant grinding of valve guides and things.
But they could set me up with EQ heads for 890. So the 790 plus upgraded springs, some kind of swirl on the valve and stainless steel valves. Oh and different retainers.
I am waiting on a call back from them as I need the upgraded heads and how they want me to pay for the difference.
#13
Thanks for the info Hambone. Guess I'll have to call them again with this thread open and act like an inquisitive 5 year old.
From what I was initially told, the $570 heads where the heavy casted stock replacement. At that time I hadn't seen the $790 set yet. Looking at them now with your information, I still can't see the diffence. Lol. Maybe I'm just being dense.
I wonder if the $790 set have some porting? I'm also trying to figure out why the iron rams are $200 cheaper than the EQ monsters. The only difference I can see between them is the monsters have a little bigger spring (capable of .6" lift instead of .515" lift).
The total lift for my cam is .48", so theoretically the iron rams should work great
From what I was initially told, the $570 heads where the heavy casted stock replacement. At that time I hadn't seen the $790 set yet. Looking at them now with your information, I still can't see the diffence. Lol. Maybe I'm just being dense.
I wonder if the $790 set have some porting? I'm also trying to figure out why the iron rams are $200 cheaper than the EQ monsters. The only difference I can see between them is the monsters have a little bigger spring (capable of .6" lift instead of .515" lift).
The total lift for my cam is .48", so theoretically the iron rams should work great
#14
WEll there is no difference on the ebay postins. Hence why i went ahead and ordered the 570 heads.
He then explained that the 570 are indeed the heavy duty stock replacement castings. And the 790 pair are the basic EQs with stock sized valve. still 62cc comnbustion chamber.
This is what i upgraded too
EQ ch318a with 1.920 stainless steel intakes & 1.620 stainless steel exhaust with upgrades springs retainers & keepers
Im going with the mopar rt+10 cam shaft. Yah I know its aparently a turd but i bought it for a song and it works well with enough with the kegger and 1.7rr. Which i will add in the future.
Seems like a fair deal to me.
specs
Mopar +10 HP R/T cam part #5007551(.467/.482 lift 208/216 @.050 dur)
so with 1.7s it will be
[.292/.301] lobe X 1.7 = [.496/.512] with 1.7s
supposed to have great mid range. WHich is perfect for a truck and I have a manual and 4.10s so not worried about any low range torque loss.
Hoping I dont run into piston to valve issues. Really dont wanna have to pull the head later on down the road just to inistall roller rockers.
He then explained that the 570 are indeed the heavy duty stock replacement castings. And the 790 pair are the basic EQs with stock sized valve. still 62cc comnbustion chamber.
This is what i upgraded too
EQ ch318a with 1.920 stainless steel intakes & 1.620 stainless steel exhaust with upgrades springs retainers & keepers
Im going with the mopar rt+10 cam shaft. Yah I know its aparently a turd but i bought it for a song and it works well with enough with the kegger and 1.7rr. Which i will add in the future.
Seems like a fair deal to me.
specs
Mopar +10 HP R/T cam part #5007551(.467/.482 lift 208/216 @.050 dur)
so with 1.7s it will be
[.292/.301] lobe X 1.7 = [.496/.512] with 1.7s
supposed to have great mid range. WHich is perfect for a truck and I have a manual and 4.10s so not worried about any low range torque loss.
Hoping I dont run into piston to valve issues. Really dont wanna have to pull the head later on down the road just to inistall roller rockers.
#16
Yeah but then you have to have the knowledge and the know how to buy 16 valves, lash them in. buy 16 springs, retainers and lock size.
If youre a serious dude thats the way to go but Im not that hardcore lol
If youre a serious dude thats the way to go but Im not that hardcore lol
#19
Gee, Thanks lol.
Thanks for clearing that up. I was getting ready to call them again, then got a call to go plow snow.
That cam sounds like it will work good for you. The one I ordered came from a few calls and emails with comp. They stuck by that particular cam once I decided to go to a 408. Hopefully they didn't lead me astray.
As for the heads... I'm trying to get complete heads because I'm not set up to put the heads together (spec guide clearance, check angles, lap, ect....) . The bottom end was a kit that someone else assembled. All I need to do (need being the key word, not all) is spec it in the block (plasti-gauge)
Anyway, enough of showing my laziness. Please keep the info and questions coming.
Thanks for clearing that up. I was getting ready to call them again, then got a call to go plow snow.
That cam sounds like it will work good for you. The one I ordered came from a few calls and emails with comp. They stuck by that particular cam once I decided to go to a 408. Hopefully they didn't lead me astray.
As for the heads... I'm trying to get complete heads because I'm not set up to put the heads together (spec guide clearance, check angles, lap, ect....) . The bottom end was a kit that someone else assembled. All I need to do (need being the key word, not all) is spec it in the block (plasti-gauge)
Anyway, enough of showing my laziness. Please keep the info and questions coming.
#20
Frankie,
I'm in the middle of a 408 build myself but right now mine is kind of on hold until it warms up a little more. I need to take my block to the machine shop to be checked out and I am also taking my EQ heads in to have a little porting done. If you look at the link in my sig it will take you to my thread. I started off building a low budget 360 and ended up trading it for a 408. So what happened was that the 408 I got had about 6,000-8,000 miles on it. So I started to tare it apart and clean it before I did anything else. I had traded short blocks so it was easy to clean things. But of course as things always happen something always seems to go wrong. I was pulling the pistons so I could wipe down the cylinders and dropped the #2 piston. As it hit my garage floor I knew I was screwed. Sure enough I had broken part of the piston skirt off. So I had to order a new KB piston. While I was at it I decided to get new rings and went with Total Seal piston rings. Once there isn't anymore snow on the ground and temps stay 45* or higher at night I can start working again. My engine isn't going into a Dodge truck though it is going into a Jeep TJ.
If you haven't gotten your cam yet I have a brand new cam I am looking to sell . It is a Comp Cam also. Here is the info for it:http://www.compperformancegroupstore...CAMRFHRCC92-02
Let me know if you're interested.
I'm in the middle of a 408 build myself but right now mine is kind of on hold until it warms up a little more. I need to take my block to the machine shop to be checked out and I am also taking my EQ heads in to have a little porting done. If you look at the link in my sig it will take you to my thread. I started off building a low budget 360 and ended up trading it for a 408. So what happened was that the 408 I got had about 6,000-8,000 miles on it. So I started to tare it apart and clean it before I did anything else. I had traded short blocks so it was easy to clean things. But of course as things always happen something always seems to go wrong. I was pulling the pistons so I could wipe down the cylinders and dropped the #2 piston. As it hit my garage floor I knew I was screwed. Sure enough I had broken part of the piston skirt off. So I had to order a new KB piston. While I was at it I decided to get new rings and went with Total Seal piston rings. Once there isn't anymore snow on the ground and temps stay 45* or higher at night I can start working again. My engine isn't going into a Dodge truck though it is going into a Jeep TJ.
If you haven't gotten your cam yet I have a brand new cam I am looking to sell . It is a Comp Cam also. Here is the info for it:http://www.compperformancegroupstore...CAMRFHRCC92-02
Let me know if you're interested.