So I plan on taking my pile across a few states, but I've got one big issue. I've got a set of 35's and a set of stock tires. I've been debating on putting the stock ones on for the actual drive, and just hauling the 35's in the bed, but that's gonna leave very little room for packing the rest of my stuff. So I've got a few questions:
1. Does running the 35"s effect my gas mileage that bad? I've got a 1997 Single Cab Short Bed, 5.9, 4x4, with I think stock gears.
2. Can I fit a 35" tire in the spare tire hole underneath the bed?
3. Would driving on 35's for that long get my trans really hot? I don't wanna blow my trans, as I can't fix that on the side of the road.
4. I can only make one trip so I have to fit everything at once. What do you think about mounting a 35 to the hood for the drive? Thats more of a joke but in all reality I might end up trying that out. Any tips?

Specs I know of: 35/12.5/15s (offset is something crazy, idk exactly what it is) and the stock ones are 275(?)45/17 I think. Also has a three inch body lift I believe.

 

If you drive reasonably, the 35's won't hurt fuel economy too badly on the drive. (heavier, yes, larger diameter though as well.... so, lower engine RPM for the same speed.) So long as the trans isn't constantly gear-hunting, it should survive the experience as well.

I don't think a 35" tire will fit between the frame rails.

Putting one on the hood? Probably not a good idea...... its a foot tall, 3 feet wide, so, is going to block a LOT of the windshield, the hood really isn't designed to support the weight, and, in the event of an accident, it becomes a 50+ pound projectile. (no matter how you strap it on.....) Plus, I think it would instantly transform officer indifferent, into officer unfriendly, should he see a tire up there.

 

Ahh true, I don't need any tickets, so far I haven't gotten one in this thing....knock on wood. With what you said, I think I'll actually just leave the 35's on there and bring just two spare tires in case one blows out. Thank you

Side note though: My trans has been acting a little wonky. It leaks, I'm pretty sure from the pan. When I turn to the left it slips until I put a little gas, and it shifts. Sometimes it shifts light, sometimes its a somewhat hard shift. Doesn't happen when I turn right though, and it has only happened once while on a back road, I went to pass someone and as it got to about 3500-3700 it slipped and revved out, so I let off, it shifted again, and I powered through it. That was a scary experience as I was on the way to a Mud Bog lol. Didn't have any problems with that since. The guy I got it from said the owner before him put a built trans into it. He said it still had break in fluid in it and I should do a transmission flush. I never got around to it and its been 2000 miles since I've owned it now. Should I do that before I make this trip?

 

Fluid/filter/band adjustment sure wouldn't hurt.

These transmissions were notorious for doing weird things when you were heavy on the throttle...... Changing the electronics may, or may not.... fix it.

 

Everyday when I drive it, my only concern is the transmission, due to the fact that second gens are known for having a $hitty trans lol

I do not trust myself to do a band adjustment, mainly because I have no idea what a band even is inside of a Transmission. How much do you think that would typically cost for a flush, filter, and band adjustment from a shop?
Last time I had anything to do with gears, I had bought a 1990 Dakota 2.5l 5 speed to teach myself manual, and I ended up busting the rear end doing a burnout, so I rebuilt my differential by buying a new rear end and taking the broken gears out of mine/ replacing them with the gears from the "new" rear end. Next day, I of course was on my way to court for a ticket I had gotten for no taillights in the dakota lol, and I have no idea what blew, but something in the rear end blew, it would idle but I couldn't put it in gear and give it gas without it dying. (I made it to court, but the truck got impounded and I gave them the title...I can't afford a $200 tow fee for a $350 truck)

Long story short: I don't do anything with gears anymore, How much would that cost do you think? If I had to do it myself to keep the cost down, what would I need for a band adjustment?

 

I wouldn't flush it. I have had nothing but bad experiences with transmission flushes. If it has the wrong fluid in it, the damage is already done, doing a fluid/filter change will get anywhere from a third, to a half of the total fluid capacity. Breakin fluid just has some more interesting additives to provide better lubrication. Personally, I think its a waste of money, as the factory never bothered with it.

To pay a shop to do it, that's gonna vary be your location. Folks charge different amounts, have different labor rates, etc. Call around to your local trans shops, and ask, they can give you a MUCH better idea. You could do it yourself with basic hand tools. I think the only 'special' tool you would need is a 3/8ths drive torque wrench. (something that is actually accurate at 72 inch/pounds.....)

 

Alright, well I'll just keep an eye on the trans fluid level on the way there I guess, keep it full.

I'm just gonna use this thread for all of my "Problems" that aren't really big problems but kinda "Hacked problems" lol

Last night I hit some mud, and the truck died as soon as it hit big water, sounded clogged. I'm pretty sure water just got down into the intake because it was rough to start up (Took a few minutes and tries) and I had to rev it out to clear it all out. This happens every time I hit a big hole or puddle, would a snorkel into the cab solve that issue? Also, what else should I "Water proof" inside the engine bay?

 

There was an article some time ago, about setting up your truck for deeper water. Been a few years, but, its likely still out there somewhere.

Stock air intake draws air from the passenger inner fender, are your inner fender well still there? Major rust holes? Unless the water is REALLY deep, it shouldn't be sucking water in that way..... Don't wanna draw air from the cab either. If you put on a snorkel, just route it up the side of the windshield to some nice, high point.

I think the biggest problem with 'water proofing' is.... all the electronics under the hood..... Water intrusion into any of that can cause troubles......

 

Yep, don't hydro lock your engine. You running stock air intake/cleaner, or a CAI ? CAI is notorious for not stopping water coming in. That was one of the first things I took off mine, and found a stock replacement in the jyard.