What made you think you would get worse mileage? Was it the advertising, like that TRASH that we have at the top of the site from K&N? Id be willing to bet good money thats the reason why most people buy them.

 

I just thought about the era when those types of air cleaners were used as a stock setup...they were out for hp and tq, not fuel economy. Plus, when I wanted to do it, all the talk around here was how it would probably hurt mpg, and no one had any evidence to support anything otherwise, so I chickened out.[:@]

 

its all propaganda, bullsh*t. more air is better, and it increases Mpg

When people add a fastman tb they get better mpg, not because the air is colder, its because they are allowing the motor to suck in more air.

 

lol, thats an interesting way to look at it.

(remember the 80s, they still used them and had no hp! lol)

Ill go into depth about the reasonings behind the factory setups being the way they are, and will destroy the CAI myth in the process.

Back when carb'd motors ran round filters there was no reason to devolop anything else. They were cheep and efficiant. In the era when cars were looking for more and more performance, ducts were added to the circle filters that went to areas where cool air was, or a ram air setup. This is the same exact concept that is the stock air hat+fender tube. When computer controlled motors debued they were the pre obd styles that were for the most part speed density (like we have). As a refresher, speed density is a way of measuring the air in the motor and regulating the fuel added. It uses two main sensors. #1 the ambient air temp sensor, to measure the air temperature. #2 the throttle position sensor. These two sensors send signals back to the computer. Inside the computer is whats called a fuel map. On the fuel map is written a "grid" on one axis of the grid is temperature(measured by the first sensor the IAT or AAT) on the other axis is the ammount of air that is able to flow through the STOCK throttle body at "X" throttle position. In the computer is also programmed the density of the air at "Y" temperature. With those two variables the computer pinpoints on the graph/grid where exactly the optimum fuel mixture should be, and fires the fuel injectors accordingly. Thats speed density in a nutshell. Sorry for being long and drawn out, but I intend to DESTROY the CAI myth with this one post, and I am going to be as thourgho as possible. Next evolution in computers was whats called a MAF or MAS style of measurement. The MAF/MAS (Mass Air Flow, or Mass Air Sensor(same thing)) builds on the Speed Density system and adds to the 2 current sensors an third, the MAS. This mass air sensor is located far foreward of the throttle body, and therefore requires some sort of connecting tube so that the air measured in the MAS is consistant with the air going into the throttle body. What the MAS does is measure the velocity of the air going into the motor, to help further pinpoint the A:F (Air/Fuel ratio). Since at this point you are no longer able to put an open element filter ontop of the throttle body (open element=carb style) the conical and pannel filters devoloped. (they were implemented in speed density units as well. Thats more of a generalization than 100% fact) Many of the factory tubes were built with ease of instilation at the factory and cost effectiveness in mind. These tubes were/are often "accordian" style and made of rubber that absorbed heat at a very fast rate. Since an individuial has the time to spend to install something that doesnt install the easiest, the aftermarket straight pipe CAI came about. Since the necessity for having the MAS remain in the same location was still there, that tube needed to exist still. From this fender well intakes were made, and "cold air boxes" were creted to help get the intake temperatures down by hiding the filter(where the air is picked up from) someplace that wasnt exposed to direct engine heat. Most fender well intakes work for cooling the temps down, whereas most "cold air boxes" dont. The cold air box trys to, in essence, move the fender out further to help hide the filter. There are many gaps in these boxes and are often times not shielded well enough (K&N being the MAIN example). SO, since we DONT have a MAS system there is absolutely NO need to run a cold air tube, UNLESS it goes directly into the fender well or out to a direct cold air source.

Not only do CAI's continue to restrict the airflow by forcing it through a tube, but it also allows more time for heat soak, because its going through a heated tube. Immagine breathing regularly, and then breathing through a straw...then immagine doing that on the hottest most humid day. Then you get the idea. Now you know why I run an open element.

 

Son of a b*tch...why couldn't you have posted that earlier?![8D] I just dropped $140 for an intake when I could have spent $30 for something that would have probably been better.[:@] I think the mostinfluencial statement out of all that was the last part about breathing through a straw. Well that sucks d*ck...

Anyone wanna buy an intake? $100

 

Call me the Mythbuster

 

So are you running a 14x3, Indy?? I know there's a bit of a clearance problem under the firewall. What will and won't fit.

Thanks.

 

http://www.rjays.com/Engine%20Parts/...ede1002-lg.jpg

edelbrock pro flow

 

Here's a couple of links to older posts that covered a similar subject definately worth reading and a cheap 30-40 dollar solution to the whole CAI dillema untill everyone here can save up to fabricate themselves a Ram Air Hood that is truly worthy of being called a Ram Air Induction System...

https://dodgeforum.com/m_820111/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm

https://dodgeforum.com/m_935994/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm

1. Go To Home Depot Into Heating Duct And Chicken Wire Fence Sections.

2. Get Smallest Roll Of 1/4" Square Holed Chicken Wire Netting. - $5-$10

3. 4" Width X 8" Height Square Funnel With 4" Round Output. - $10

4. 3' Legnth With 4" Diameter Flexible Furnace Pipe. - $10-$15

5. Roll Of High Temp (220+ Degree Rating) Duct Tape. - $5

6. 4" Diameter Hose Clamp. - $1-$2

7. Remove Stock Air Box, Plastic Air Hose From Your Stock Air Box, And Nylon Paper Tacked To Passenger Side Of Radiator. - Free

8. Form Flex Pipe Around Mouth of Stock Air Box Mouth With Hands, Hammer, Vise, Extra Set Of Hands, Etc. - 15-20 Mins.

9. Use Duct Tape To Make Airtight, And Strong Seal Between Flex Pipe & Stock Air Box.

10. Reinstall Stock Airbox With Flex Pipe Connected.

11. Form Flex Pipe To Allow It To Reach The Now Open Area To The Passenger Side Of The Radiator.

12. Using 4" Diameter Hose Clamp, Attach Rectangular Funnel To End Of Flex Pipe To Catch As Much Air As Possible.

13. Place 1/4" Square Holed Chicken Wire Fence Over MOuth To Protect From Engine Inhaling Foreign Objects.

14. Duct Tape Chicken Wire In Place And To Keep Edges of Funnel From Scratching Paint.

15. Duct Tape Any Other Areas In Which New Intake Will Scratch Paint.

16. Enjoy.

 

Click here to see what all that stuff looks like installed.

http://www.slomojo01.angelfire.com