Volant Cold Air Intake???
Record Breaker
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,977
Likes: 1
From: DuQuoin,IL.
RE: Volant Cold Air Intake???
ORIGINAL: Ram2K1
You are better off to buy the cheap air intake and spend $50 to put a good filter on it. The biggest improvements from an intake on these trucksare: a) higher volume of air intake and b) smooth air tube/less disrupted air flow. When you buy a Volant or K&N or AEM, etc., much of your expense is because of the name on it. Take a look at myintake pics:
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u...RamIntake3.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u...RamIntake2.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u.../RamIntake.jpg
That intake was $137, and after I put an AEM DryFlow filter on it, I will have $187 total...much less than a K&N or Volant...and I bet you $1000 it would dyno just as good. The tubing material doesn't mean crap on these engines, because they donot have direct air intake...the air goes into the plenum first and then into the engine...it is hot no matter what... Don't buy into the name brand hype...you are wasting your money. Guys who have the brand name set-ups, please don't take this as a personal attack...just giving my opinion.[8D]
I won a Fram intake that is identical to your's. I think Fram dropped them but I have seen several brands that are the same thing including yours. The main thing I noticed is better throttle response and it sounds almost like the old unsilenced air cleaners Mopar used to have.
You are better off to buy the cheap air intake and spend $50 to put a good filter on it. The biggest improvements from an intake on these trucksare: a) higher volume of air intake and b) smooth air tube/less disrupted air flow. When you buy a Volant or K&N or AEM, etc., much of your expense is because of the name on it. Take a look at myintake pics:
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u...RamIntake3.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u...RamIntake2.jpg
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u.../RamIntake.jpg
That intake was $137, and after I put an AEM DryFlow filter on it, I will have $187 total...much less than a K&N or Volant...and I bet you $1000 it would dyno just as good. The tubing material doesn't mean crap on these engines, because they donot have direct air intake...the air goes into the plenum first and then into the engine...it is hot no matter what... Don't buy into the name brand hype...you are wasting your money. Guys who have the brand name set-ups, please don't take this as a personal attack...just giving my opinion.[8D]
I won a Fram intake that is identical to your's. I think Fram dropped them but I have seen several brands that are the same thing including yours. The main thing I noticed is better throttle response and it sounds almost like the old unsilenced air cleaners Mopar used to have.
Champion
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,902
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From:
RE: Volant Cold Air Intake???
ORIGINAL: Slomojo01
Here's a couple of links to older posts that covered a similar subject definately worth reading and a cheap 30-40 dollar solution to the whole CAI dillema untill everyone here can save up to fabricate themselves a Ram Air Hood that is truly worthy of being called a Ram Air Induction System...
https://dodgeforum.com/m_820111/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm
https://dodgeforum.com/m_935994/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm
1. Go To Home Depot Into Heating Duct And Chicken Wire Fence Sections.
2. Get Smallest Roll Of 1/4" Square Holed Chicken Wire Netting. - $5-$10
3. 4" Width X 8" Height Square Funnel With 4" Round Output. - $10
4. 3' Legnth With 4" Diameter Flexible Furnace Pipe. - $10-$15
5. Roll Of High Temp (220+ Degree Rating) Duct Tape. - $5
6. 4" Diameter Hose Clamp. - $1-$2
7. Remove Stock Air Box, Plastic Air Hose From Your Stock Air Box, And Nylon Paper Tacked To Passenger Side Of Radiator. - Free
8. Form Flex Pipe Around Mouth of Stock Air Box Mouth With Hands, Hammer, Vise, Extra Set Of Hands, Etc. - 15-20 Mins.
9. Use Duct Tape To Make Airtight, And Strong Seal Between Flex Pipe & Stock Air Box.
10. Reinstall Stock Airbox With Flex Pipe Connected.
11. Form Flex Pipe To Allow It To Reach The Now Open Area To The Passenger Side Of The Radiator.
12. Using 4" Diameter Hose Clamp, Attach Rectangular Funnel To End Of Flex Pipe To Catch As Much Air As Possible.
13. Place 1/4" Square Holed Chicken Wire Fence Over MOuth To Protect From Engine Inhaling Foreign Objects.
14. Duct Tape Chicken Wire In Place And To Keep Edges of Funnel From Scratching Paint.
15. Duct Tape Any Other Areas In Which New Intake Will Scratch Paint.
16. Enjoy.
Here's a couple of links to older posts that covered a similar subject definately worth reading and a cheap 30-40 dollar solution to the whole CAI dillema untill everyone here can save up to fabricate themselves a Ram Air Hood that is truly worthy of being called a Ram Air Induction System...
https://dodgeforum.com/m_820111/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm
https://dodgeforum.com/m_935994/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm
1. Go To Home Depot Into Heating Duct And Chicken Wire Fence Sections.
2. Get Smallest Roll Of 1/4" Square Holed Chicken Wire Netting. - $5-$10
3. 4" Width X 8" Height Square Funnel With 4" Round Output. - $10
4. 3' Legnth With 4" Diameter Flexible Furnace Pipe. - $10-$15
5. Roll Of High Temp (220+ Degree Rating) Duct Tape. - $5
6. 4" Diameter Hose Clamp. - $1-$2
7. Remove Stock Air Box, Plastic Air Hose From Your Stock Air Box, And Nylon Paper Tacked To Passenger Side Of Radiator. - Free
8. Form Flex Pipe Around Mouth of Stock Air Box Mouth With Hands, Hammer, Vise, Extra Set Of Hands, Etc. - 15-20 Mins.
9. Use Duct Tape To Make Airtight, And Strong Seal Between Flex Pipe & Stock Air Box.
10. Reinstall Stock Airbox With Flex Pipe Connected.
11. Form Flex Pipe To Allow It To Reach The Now Open Area To The Passenger Side Of The Radiator.
12. Using 4" Diameter Hose Clamp, Attach Rectangular Funnel To End Of Flex Pipe To Catch As Much Air As Possible.
13. Place 1/4" Square Holed Chicken Wire Fence Over MOuth To Protect From Engine Inhaling Foreign Objects.
14. Duct Tape Chicken Wire In Place And To Keep Edges of Funnel From Scratching Paint.
15. Duct Tape Any Other Areas In Which New Intake Will Scratch Paint.
16. Enjoy.
Champion
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,902
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From:
RE: Volant Cold Air Intake???
ORIGINAL: TheForce55555
I dont think its fair to compare a 95 to a 97 or 98, OBD vs OBD2 systems, not really fair at all
Ok here is the solution to everyones problems, take all the air filtering devices off and run a straight Tb, then we cant argue about it
I used to have a 1995 Dakota with the K&N open element intake. I rode in a friend's CAIed Dakota (1997 or 1998 I believe) with the same engine and very similar exhaust setup, and it had more get up and go. Considering that the body change in 1997 made the newer Dakotas heavier, that convinced me right there, personally, that CAIs were the way to go.
Ok here is the solution to everyones problems, take all the air filtering devices off and run a straight Tb, then we cant argue about it
ORIGINAL: jason.w
Thanks for the "long drawn out" explanation IndyRam, it was educational. I think I've read similar things from you before in other parts of the forum. Thats one of the reasons I elected to go with the Volant over K&N, because it draws its air from the fender well rather than inside the engine compartment.
I used to have a 1995 Dakota with the K&N open element intake. I rode in a friend's CAIed Dakota (1997 or 1998 I believe) with the same engine and very similar exhaust setup, and it had more get up and go. Considering that the body change in 1997 made the newer Dakotas heavier, that convinced me right there, personally, that CAIs were the way to go.
As far as sucking air through a straw goes, have you seen these tubes? Granted, the stock tube is not very big, and the air box it uses even worse. But have you seen a Volant's? That is one big a** straw. If the straw is big enough, say big enough to fit over your entire mouth, you won't notice a difference between it and breathing normally (other than wearing this weird, huge straw over your mouth and trying to go through your day like normal while people look at you like a freak
).
Thanks for the "long drawn out" explanation IndyRam, it was educational. I think I've read similar things from you before in other parts of the forum. Thats one of the reasons I elected to go with the Volant over K&N, because it draws its air from the fender well rather than inside the engine compartment.
I used to have a 1995 Dakota with the K&N open element intake. I rode in a friend's CAIed Dakota (1997 or 1998 I believe) with the same engine and very similar exhaust setup, and it had more get up and go. Considering that the body change in 1997 made the newer Dakotas heavier, that convinced me right there, personally, that CAIs were the way to go.
As far as sucking air through a straw goes, have you seen these tubes? Granted, the stock tube is not very big, and the air box it uses even worse. But have you seen a Volant's? That is one big a** straw. If the straw is big enough, say big enough to fit over your entire mouth, you won't notice a difference between it and breathing normally (other than wearing this weird, huge straw over your mouth and trying to go through your day like normal while people look at you like a freak
).
ORIGINAL: Ram2K1
Honestly, I foresee a S/C in my future...[&:]
ORIGINAL: TheForce55555
I dont think its fair to compare a 95 to a 97 or 98, OBD vs OBD2 systems, not really fair at all
Ok here is the solution to everyones problems, take all the air filtering devices off and run a straight Tb, then we cant argue about it
I used to have a 1995 Dakota with the K&N open element intake. I rode in a friend's CAIed Dakota (1997 or 1998 I believe) with the same engine and very similar exhaust setup, and it had more get up and go. Considering that the body change in 1997 made the newer Dakotas heavier, that convinced me right there, personally, that CAIs were the way to go.
Ok here is the solution to everyones problems, take all the air filtering devices off and run a straight Tb, then we cant argue about it
)
ORIGINAL: xskylinedx
Pure curiosity. I don't plan to change the manifold, but I hear you guys talk about how CAI don't work on our trucks because the air sits in the kegger and sometime I'd like to figure out just how much it increases the air temp. I honestly feal that the time air spends in the manifoldis almost negligable but I thought I'd hit it from another angle. I likedthe FIPK on my old suv and I like it now on my ram.
ORIGINAL: IndyRamMan
Butdont get me wrong xskylinedx, any scientific research makes me happy, but theres really no point in trying to figgure out how much heat soak air gets when your not going to change the manifold (its even sorta pointless even if you are.) If you are worried about that, get an edelbrock air gap and shove a bag of ice under it.
Butdont get me wrong xskylinedx, any scientific research makes me happy, but theres really no point in trying to figgure out how much heat soak air gets when your not going to change the manifold (its even sorta pointless even if you are.) If you are worried about that, get an edelbrock air gap and shove a bag of ice under it.
Record Breaker
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,330
Likes: 1
From: TN
RE: Volant Cold Air Intake???
ORIGINAL: IndyRamMan
No matter what the temp is going to go up once the air enters the intake manifold, the only way to change that is to change how it opperates (flows) or to change the composition. By making the intake cooler from getting it from outside, it WILL be cooler inside the manifold. Say the manifold raises temps by 15 degrees....if you have 115* intake temp when it goes through the throttle body it will be 130 once it gets to the heads. If you have a cooler temp, say 100, by the time it reaches the heads it will be 115.
No matter what the temp is going to go up once the air enters the intake manifold, the only way to change that is to change how it opperates (flows) or to change the composition. By making the intake cooler from getting it from outside, it WILL be cooler inside the manifold. Say the manifold raises temps by 15 degrees....if you have 115* intake temp when it goes through the throttle body it will be 130 once it gets to the heads. If you have a cooler temp, say 100, by the time it reaches the heads it will be 115.
I can honestly say that I can alreadysee an improvement in mpg...
Champion
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,902
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From:
RE: Volant Cold Air Intake???
I think a lot of you guys are confused as how to make the air charge denser. There are 2 ways
#1, Ram air/ forced induction. It shoves more air into the same space during x ammount of time.
#2 Making the air cooler. The colder the air the more dense it is compaired to the same barometric pressure/altitude of a higher temp. 2 ways of acheiving colder air.
#1 Getting air from outside of the engine bay
#2 Nitrous. (Nitrous is in essence nothing more than VERY COLD compressed air) Its not some magic solution of chemicals.
The reason cold air is more dense than hot air is because of how molicules interact. The hotter molicules are the more they "bounce arround". Since they bounce arround they need more room. Colder molicules do not bounce arround as much, and therefore need less space. That means that the colder the air, the more actuall ammount of air you can fit in a given space.
#1, Ram air/ forced induction. It shoves more air into the same space during x ammount of time.
#2 Making the air cooler. The colder the air the more dense it is compaired to the same barometric pressure/altitude of a higher temp. 2 ways of acheiving colder air.
#1 Getting air from outside of the engine bay
#2 Nitrous. (Nitrous is in essence nothing more than VERY COLD compressed air) Its not some magic solution of chemicals.
The reason cold air is more dense than hot air is because of how molicules interact. The hotter molicules are the more they "bounce arround". Since they bounce arround they need more room. Colder molicules do not bounce arround as much, and therefore need less space. That means that the colder the air, the more actuall ammount of air you can fit in a given space.
Champion
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,902
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From:
RE: Volant Cold Air Intake???
ORIGINAL: Ram2K1
I wasn't meaning denser like in scientific terms I guessI should have said heavier airflow...or more air coming in...denser like in volume, not actual density.
I wasn't meaning denser like in scientific terms
I guessI should have said heavier airflow...or more air coming in...denser like in volume, not actual density.
Record Breaker
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,330
Likes: 1
From: TN
RE: Volant Cold Air Intake???
ORIGINAL: IndyRamMan
quantity?
ORIGINAL: Ram2K1
I wasn't meaning denser like in scientific terms I guessI should have said heavier airflow...or more air coming in...denser like in volume, not actual density.
I wasn't meaning denser like in scientific terms
I guessI should have said heavier airflow...or more air coming in...denser like in volume, not actual density.
Professional
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
From:
RE: Volant Cold Air Intake???
IndyRamMan you said earlier that Nitrous is like just super cold air being dumped into an engine. Are you saying that the Nitrous Oxide isn't much of a combustible gas? I'm curious to know because I've never seen the stuff or read too much about it. If that's the case then my little idea that I, and probably many others have concieved, might actually be worth my time...
I had the crazy idea that if I got a 2400 watt inverter, one big *** air compressor with a 15 gallon sotrage tank that runs on about 15 amps at 120V with a max pressure of 200psi, two extra 10 gallon compressed air tanks, a electronically controlled valve, and some 1/2" - 3/4" compressed air lines, I may just be able to bump my engines power output up a lil bit...[sm=gears.gif]
Now the only question is this...
A.) Is this what one would call a Cold Air Intake Worth Over $300?
B.) Will I blow the heads off my motor?
C.) Will I throw a rod and break my crank?
D.) Or will that little smallblock just scream?
I had the crazy idea that if I got a 2400 watt inverter, one big *** air compressor with a 15 gallon sotrage tank that runs on about 15 amps at 120V with a max pressure of 200psi, two extra 10 gallon compressed air tanks, a electronically controlled valve, and some 1/2" - 3/4" compressed air lines, I may just be able to bump my engines power output up a lil bit...[sm=gears.gif]
Now the only question is this...
A.) Is this what one would call a Cold Air Intake Worth Over $300?
B.) Will I blow the heads off my motor?
C.) Will I throw a rod and break my crank?
D.) Or will that little smallblock just scream?
Champion
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 0
From:
RE: Volant Cold Air Intake???
ORIGINAL: Slomojo01
IndyRamMan you said earlier that Nitrous is like just super cold air being dumped into an engine. Are you saying that the Nitrous Oxide isn't much of a combustible gas? I'm curious to know because I've never seen the stuff or read too much about it. If that's the case then my little idea that I, and probably many others have concieved, might actually be worth my time...
I had the crazy idea that if I got a 2400 watt inverter, one big *** air compressor with a 15 gallon sotrage tank that runs on about 15 amps at 120V with a max pressure of 200psi, two extra 10 gallon compressed air tanks, a electronically controlled valve, and some 1/2" - 3/4" compressed air lines, I may just be able to bump my engines power output up a lil bit...[sm=gears.gif]
Now the only question is this...
A.) Is this what one would call a Cold Air Intake Worth Over $300?
B.) Will I blow the heads off my motor?
C.) Will I throw a rod and break my crank?
D.) Or will that little smallblock just scream?
IndyRamMan you said earlier that Nitrous is like just super cold air being dumped into an engine. Are you saying that the Nitrous Oxide isn't much of a combustible gas? I'm curious to know because I've never seen the stuff or read too much about it. If that's the case then my little idea that I, and probably many others have concieved, might actually be worth my time...
I had the crazy idea that if I got a 2400 watt inverter, one big *** air compressor with a 15 gallon sotrage tank that runs on about 15 amps at 120V with a max pressure of 200psi, two extra 10 gallon compressed air tanks, a electronically controlled valve, and some 1/2" - 3/4" compressed air lines, I may just be able to bump my engines power output up a lil bit...[sm=gears.gif]
Now the only question is this...
A.) Is this what one would call a Cold Air Intake Worth Over $300?
B.) Will I blow the heads off my motor?
C.) Will I throw a rod and break my crank?
D.) Or will that little smallblock just scream?
Yes, nitrous is in essence nothing more than super cooled compressed air, rather than a combustable gas like hydrogen would be. (this is a little bit of a generalization but in ESSENCE thats what it is). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrous_oxide Wikipedia has some good info on how its formed and its uses, and a little history of where it comes from (my favorite mechanical technological force of the 20th centruy the luftwaffe)
Your idea is very conceivable, but rather inefficiant. The idea you have there is basicly the same idea as supercharging. Shoving more air in at a given time (whereas nitrous is shoving more air in at a given time via its temperature) For that you would have to have the compressed air lines air tight to the combustion chambers so that it doesnt blow out through the throttle body or some other route. Unfortunately that 15 gallon tank would run out in about 20 rpm (15 gal = 56L, each revolution takes 1/2 the displacement of the motor, so for every 2 revs its 5.9L x10 = 20 revs =59L of air) Youll have a BLIP of supercharging. Good idea on paper.