I have 100.000 miles on it.

I have the 4 wheel ABS.

I will check for the hoses and try again.

Thanks ands greetings,


Erik.

 

would this mean no more brake stands or whatever you want to call pressing the brake and gas to burn rubber

 

I am not talking about doing burnouts, I just talk about more pedaltravel.

Thanks and greetings,


Erik.

 

please pardon my thick head. Just want to make sure I get the right wheel cuylinders

I have a 99 ram 1500 4X4
I am going to order wc's for a 1 ton GM dually, correct? 1 3/16" bore?

 

I know I'm resurrecting an OLD thread here.

I have had abs and service brake lights intermittently on and off for a while now. After getting new tires and alignment I noticed truck still pulling to the right driving and to left stopping. So replaced calipers, pads, and hoses.
Adjusted rear brakes and noticed left drum had a pretty deep groove in it. New drums and shoes. (While I'm in there I'll do the wheel cylinder upgrade) used dodge 1 ton cylinders not GM. Cylinders on the truck weretost leaking from both sides. Everything bled adjusted and back together. (Glad I knocked out the backing plate plugs while I had it all
Open.
Woohoo no lights on. But rear brakes seemed awful hot. Smelled like it too. Back adjusters off and those stinking lights came back on. Hmmmmm tighten up and back off etcetera etcetera.
Vacuum bled brakes 2 times so far no air no leaks even with lights on pedal feels great. Firm with no leak down. Fluid was flushed 2 weeks ago with Pentosin DOT 4+.
Seems when I adjust brakes out to where they heat up and stink the high heavens lights are off but back them off about 5-8 notches and the lights come back on. Thinking inlay have glazed passenger side cause under light braking it is starting to howl at me. Any thoughts on what's going on here?

 

Think I would be tempted to have the abs codes read, and see what the computer thinks is going on.......

2 or 4 wheel abs?

 

2 wheel, dodge house wants 130 to hook it up. I know I'm throwing money at a problem, but everything that I've done so far was needed maintenance. Have a S.O. Solus pro scanner updated to 2012 on layaway right now will just deal w it until I get it in hand. 4 trips to dealer on mine or the wife's car will have paid it off so I can wait for the moment.

 

Sounds like a plan. Let us know what you come up with.

 

Well so far turned drums out, took .007" out of one to true it up .002" out of other. No abs lights any more and not heating up as bad. I have full show contact with the drum but get a howl like a hound dog every once in a while on light application. Had a small spot rubbing drum evidenced by abrasion on right primary shoe bottom outside edge. Tried getting some Napa premium shoes, but the part# they gave had the adjuster holes about 1/16" to high and star wheel would free spin both ways no click no reverse lock. They are ordering the NAPA UP462R brake shoes up for me and going to try those. So far that's where I am at.

The NAPA part # they gave me was UP652R this part # also shows in their online catalog but every other catalog I've looked in shows 462 base shoe number. Front pads also show to be a completely diff part number than anyone else as well.

 

I'm glad you resurrected this thread. Ours had the line pinched off to the RR when we bought it and the left brake line blew this week. I bought the 1 ton Dodge cylinders and replaced the brake lines. I wanted to change the shoes, drums, hardware, and wheel seals, but already spent $ on unplanned projects. The RR had the star retainers on 2 studs, so with @ 150,000 miles are still the original brakes. Anyhow, they work awesome. I can't wait to replace the shoes and drums. I think the GM cylinders would apply too much rear brake.

I hope you get your brakes working correctly. I'm not familiar with Napa anymore. I like Wagner brakes, the thermoquiets. I get them from Rock Auto. Were your out of round drums Napa? or a different brand?